Hi fellows.

I live in Syria and I have an OCTAVIA ELEGANCE 2001 with AKL engine 1.6 L 74 KW petrol engine and manual gear box.

• When idle, rpm is never stable, it always fluctuate.
  
• When I try to move the car -after I stop on a traffic light- I always feel the accelerating pedal dropping down my foot.
  
• When I drive the car at low speed (rpm is below 1500) sometimes it hesitates and moves forwards and backwards and shocks.
  
• When the engine is cold, there is no problem at all.
  
• When I visit a SKODA dealer, he says that there are no fault codes appear on the VAG COM, but when I lately visited a nearby garage, he said that there is more than one type of MAF fault code though he still thinks that the problem is not in MAF itself.
  

I would highly appreciate your advice.

Thank you in advance.

Try cleaning the throttle body and see if that helps

could be temp sensor with you saying its ok when cold if the sensor is sending the wrong data to the cars ecu then it can create a few of the described probs. What is your temp gauge like does it fluctuate a lot.

Did you check for fault codes when the car was cold or up to tempreture.

like above try cleaning out the throttle body and idle control valve with some carb cleaner and see if it improves.

Hope you get it sorted.

could be temp sensor with you saying its ok when cold if the sensor is sending the wrong data to the cars ecu then it can create a few of the described probs. What is your temp gauge like does it fluctuate a lot.

Did you check for fault codes when the car was cold or up to tempreture.

like above try cleaning out the throttle body and idle control valve with some carb cleaner and see if it improves.

Hope you get it sorted.

Two years ago (about 20000 Km) the temp gauge began to reset to zero -for a seconds- when the engine is hot, but I replaced it immediately with a new one and the problem did not disappear.

I will clean the throttle body, but can you please help me to locate the idle control valve.

I've no idea where it is off-hand, but when I read the OP, my first thought was of problems with the idle stabilisation valve.

I have the same problem, When the AC is on the idle will go up and back down from 1000 to 1100 rpms. when AC is off it will stay at 800 rpm.

The AC imposes an extra load on the engine. This makes correct idle stabilisation more important. If the engine turns significantly faster with the AC running, I'd actually start wondering if the idle mixture is too lean (but how to adjust it on an EMS car?)

vac leaks can cause issues as well

i just checked my car today and found that the pipes that go to the intake just before the throttle where toasted and broken. there are two pipes, one goes to what i think is the EGR, and the other goes to the intake manifold. what are these pipes for?

Could be EGR, could be crankcase ventilation, could be secondary vacumn (if fitted), could be servo vacumn...

Regardless, if they're cracked, they could introduce variable amounts of extra air after the MAF (and I think the throttle body), which the ECU then struggles to deal with, causing an eratic idle.

Could be EGR, could be crankcase ventilation, could be secondary vacumn (if fitted), could be servo vacumn...

Regardless, if they're cracked, they could introduce variable amounts of extra air after the MAF (and I think the throttle body), which the ECU then struggles to deal with, causing an eratic idle.

Yeah thats my problem. i closed it with my finger and the rpm became more steady. skoda has some quality issues with these stuff. i have replaced the intake pipe from maf to TB twice. this would be my third. and always because of the same problem, toasted plastic. isnt there a revised version for this pipe?

better to find some oil resistant silicone pipe and fabricate your own. I replaced some of the pipes on mine with aftermarket silicone pipes (costly) but all the smaller ones I had a roll of thick wall silicone petrol pipe

well i just used some aluminum piping i had around and made a new intake pipe. i connected the vacuum line that comes from the intake manifold directly to the new intake pipe but the engine keeps hunting at idle although not as bad as before. if i block the vacuum line completely the engine stops hunting.

this is not an actual pic of my engine but its the same i got on my ride

you can see marked by a circle the pipe that goes to the charcoal cannister, the large square is what appears to be the crank case ventilation. and under it is the little vacuum pipe that is giving me the trouble. what is this vacuum for ? and why even that i have connected it directly to the pipe where it gets air that has been metered by the MAF the engine keeps hunting?

Anyone? :(