Has anyone ever found the catch tank to be full?

Has anyone ever found the catch tank to be full?

This is what I drained out after 256miles.

http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae254/Silver-vrs/After256milesmilage45289.jpg

NB: Thanks to Bowders1, Bodge and Robbo (Middle Earth) for posting brill pics and advice.

Peter

This is what I drained out after 256miles.

http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae254/Silver-vrs/After256milesmilage45289.jpg

NB: Thanks to Bowders1, Bodge and Robbo (Middle Earth) for posting brill pics and advice.

Peter

cheers! not that much then? Wonder how many miles it'd take to fill it....

cheers! not that much then? Wonder how many miles it'd take to fill it....

Yes good question,

I guess its dependent on a number of variables :- type of journeys, time of year (winter driving hence condensation formation) and state of engine.

Im leaving it for 500 miles next then checking contents. Look at post 33 (Rob Clubley) of this :- http://briskoda.net/...20michi__st__20 .

After I finished installing it :- http://i977.photobuc...rs/P1000212.jpg

With modified cover fitted :- http://i977.photobuc...rs/P1000220.jpg

Peter

Just been messin on ebay and came across THIS say's complete kit, any good??

Has anyone ever found the catch tank to be full?

Have a read of this buddy: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/162312-dont-forget-to-drain-your-catch-can/

Over the winter when the air is more humid and the engine doesn´t run as hot for short trips, the catch can fills up much quicker. I got barely anything during the summer months, but you have to watch it during the winter cos she soon fills up with nasties!

Once you´ve drained it a few times you get a good feel for when to do it based on climate and usage.

Most big truck/bus engines run a catch can type system to try and stop the oil/water/fuel entering the intake and causing problems. The duty cycles and warranty periods are much tougher compared to cars, so they have to do things properly! Scania use a nice little separator system, I´ll try and find a pic.

Oops posted in wrong forum! Too many open at once!

Edited 20 September, 201114 yr by Strayk9

Why oh why are these brilliant guides not stickied and saved.

Also annoys me cause I have a OCC in my garage to fit.

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V2Images/ModsEngine/OilCatchCan.htm

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V2Images/ModsEngine/OilCatchCan.htm

I've looked at Rob's guide, but its a shame Bowders pics are missing... (at least for me!)

I've looked at Rob's guide, but its a shame Bowders pics are missing... (at least for me!)

Well it just so happens i have now fixed those OCC guide pics...

Please see the first page to view them now links working.

The pictures were all on photobucket and i accidentally deleted them when cleaning up some folders. I lost 400 pics. Not happy. Photobucket do not have a back up either. To make it worse i rebuilt pc and deleted original pics too. What a nightmare. I have been slowly rebuilding remaining pics and sorting links out in briskoda, but guides like the DIY SAI, N249 and N112 Removal will not be able to be fixed yet as all those pics have gone. I have been using pics from other DIY guides to will rebuild that when i get some spare time.

Lesson learned there

Well it just so happens i have now fixed those OCC guide pics...

fantastic - this helps me a stack!

Pity about the rest of your pics...

Excellent guide, thanks Bowders.

Great pics to assist the instalation, can I ask how long roughly it would take to fit this? I removed the pancake and associated pipes last year and emptied out lots of oil, and now have CEL on, so was planning on doing the OCC, clear our pipes again and fit new Green Temp Sender Sensor thing at same time ... could it all be done in one day?

Also, all that crud and gunk that will inevitably be in the OEM pipes and parts when disconnecting, is there a way of flushing it all out of the system?

Thanks in advance,

Rob.

Great pics to assist the instalation, can I ask how long roughly it would take to fit this? I removed the pancake and associated pipes last year and emptied out lots of oil, and now have CEL on, so was planning on doing the OCC, clear our pipes again and fit new Green Temp Sender Sensor thing at same time ... could it all be done in one day?

Also, all that crud and gunk that will inevitably be in the OEM pipes and parts when disconnecting, is there a way of flushing it all out of the system?

Thanks in advance,

Rob.

Could be done in a day easy if you are all prepped with parts and tools and confident you know what you are doing.It is not too difficult. I cleaned out pipes with gunk and wiped with clean rags where I could get to

Yeah I found that sort of stuff to be as stiff as hell. No way it would work. The silicone stuff is bad enough!

I got this: http://www.auto-perf...products_id=832

I wanted black too, but had to settle for blue. If you find some black let me know cos I'll get some in.

could always try this for black hoses???

http://www.apmotorstore.co.uk/silicone-repair-tape.html

could always try this for black hoses???

http://www.apmotorst...epair-tape.html

Ha that stuff could be handy!

I decided the catch can setup wasn't for me in the end, so removed it ages back (I change my mind often!). Fitted a new complete OE system in its place.

I believe another member is enjoying my old can and bracket now. Keep it in the family!

Its on mike vrs yellow oné ;-)

Sorry to drag this one up again:

I have a split pipe in engine: think its the Y pipe on the side of the block . . the breather:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-VRS-1-8T-20V-180-BHP-SILCONE-CRANKCASE-BREATHER-HOSE-AUM-AUQ-/160808939469?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2570f5afcd#ht_1845wt_1094

Part 5 in that diagram,

I was planning on replacing that part with a silicone one, along with other pipes which may have split / failed within the breather system.

my question is:

do i replace all the hoses in the engine breather / turbo system with silicone ones so to eliminate corrosion ,

or

fit a OCC.

If i fitted OCC which pipes do i Loose and which ones would I be better off replacing along with OCC.. the engine bay is getting pretty mucky now, oily muck everywhere and I want to fix these little problems before it starts costing me alot of money. . . .

diagrams / picture would be very good if possible

Thanks

Rob.

(unless someone fancies helping me out one sunday afternoon) based in Worcester area

If i understand this correctly, I can remove the "hockey puck", block that entry on the tip. Then just install a catch can with a breather filter so the cranck case can have a bit of a cold air back when cooling down. Is that correct?