How to change Fuel Pump Cam Follower on 2.0 TFSi

[vRS Carl]

Ok here's another Tutorial. This is done on a MK2 Skoda Octavia vRS but i would imagine the process is the same or pretty similar for all 2.0 TFSi Engines. I have had a look round on the net and not been able to find a tutorial for this. Apologies if someone has done this already.

Before i start the usual disclaimer

NEITHER I NOR BRISKODA WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE IF YOU UNDERTAKE THE PROCESS DETAILED BELOW AND SOMETHING GOES WRONG. YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!

Ok formalities out the way here we go.

You will need the following:

T30 Torx Bit

13mm Ratchet Spanner / Ring or Open ended Spanner

17mm Open Ended Spanner

Cloth

New Cam Follower Part no. - 06D 109 309 C

Ok this whole process took me about 45mins which included taking pics and setting TDC. Ensure that nobody opens the driver door throughout this or you will end up with a nice stream of fuel all over you as this charges the fuel system when doing this. To get around you can just disconnect the battery.

Firstly remove engine cover. To do this just pull up firmly but slowly till the rubber lugs pop of the housing.

I didn't take any Pics of setting TDC as i had to use a small dentist type mirror and torch to be able to see what i was doing and it would never have worked on a picture.

Basically to set TDC undo the 2 left hand nuts at the side of the Cylinder head. You will need 2 people to do this next bit.

GENTLY and i mean gently pull back the side of the cover and look at the cogs on which the timing belt is sat. The biggest cog which is nearest the front of the engine at the top has a Small arrow on the left had side as you look at it. Also on the side of the engine just above the cog is a small arrow again. The aim is to get these 2 in line so you know your engine is at Top Dead Centre or TDC. Now to move the cog round put the engine in gear (i found it easiest in 4th) and have someone gently rock the car forwards to get the cog to turn. You keep your eye on the side of the timing cog looking for the small arrow. Keep doing this until the 2 Arrows are in line. Once this is done apply the handbrake and then tighten up the nuts on the cover as you don't need access to it again.

Im not sure if you have to Set TDC. When i installed the Autotech internals i was told that you must do it. So as you are removing the fuel pump i always do it just to be safe. If anyone with any mechanical expertise knows different please let me know.

Now we are ready to tackle the pump.

Firstly disconnect the 2 electrical connectors.

The next thing to do is to let out any excess fuel in the pump. On the lower right hand side their is a pressure valve. Remove the black dust cap then using a screwdriver or allen key press in the valve (same as on a tyre) and hold in till all fuel is released. Ensure you place a cloth underneath to catch the excess.

Once you have done that using a 13mm Ratchet spanner/Ring spanner. Remove this valve ensuring you leave the cloth underneath as a bit more fuel will leak out. You have to remove this valve to get at the bottom bolt on the pump.

Now depending on how old your car is you will either have 2 metal pipes or 1 metal 1 rubber pipe at the bottom of the pump. Mine has 1 metal 1 rubber so the process is quite easy. I am assuming (but haven't seen the other fitting) that the 2 metal pipes are held in by the same size nut. Any way take a 17mm open end spanner and undo the nut all the way till it falls down the metal pipe. Again make sure cloth is underneath to catch any excess fuel.

Once this is done you are now ready to tackle removing the pump. The pump is held in by 3 x T30 Torx bolts. Undo these bolts and remove. The pump will now come away from the engine.

Inside you will see the cam follower. Using your little finger just pull it out. Check for signs of wear. This one has covered 14 k miles since it was last changed but i don't think that wear is too excessive.

Take a new cam follower and place into the hole you took the old one from. There is no need to coat it in oil/fuel etc as it comes already coated in the little pot it is delivered in.

Once done you are now ready to put the pump back on.

Firstly line up pump and push up against engine so it is flush. Then by hand only tighten the 3 x T30 Torx bolts. This ensures the bolts don't cross thread etc. Once your happy the bolts are as tight as you can do it with your fingers and they are not cross threaded then using your T30 Torx bit tighten up the bolts. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Basically do these hand tight using a ratchet. But DO NOT apply to much force. If you knacker the thread holding the pump in it's gonna become expensive.

[vRS Carl]

Once they are done then reconnect the metal pipe at the bottom using hands first so no cross threading then the 17mm spanner. Note the nut does not go all the way to the top.

Then reconnect the pressure valve using the 13mm Ratchet Spanner/Ring Spanner and replace the dust cap.

Now reconnect the 2 electrical connectors and check everything is all seated properly and correct.

If you disconnected the battery reconnect it. Put keys in ignition turn it on and then open drivers door 2-3 times to charge up the fuel system and get rid of any air in it. Once that is done start engine and check all is ok no leaks from around pump etc.

If you have VCDS check no faults and Voila all done.

As i said took me 45 mins including taking pics. You could quite easily do it in about 25-30mins.

Comments good or bad welcome

HIH

Carl

[VRStu]

Nice guide Carl.

Good to see you've finally invested in some decent tools

[vRS Carl]

Nice guide Carl.

Good to see you've finally invested in some decent tools

Cheers

Is a Halfords 150 piece set that was £200 but i got it for £60. They had a half price sale on and i had £40 of vouchers so got it Result :P

Have a look at the same thread on MK5 site. That explains needing a hammer and 11mm Socket

Carl:thumbup:

[dan_the_v8man]

nice write up, this was something I was really a bit cautious about doing on my car, if i'd have seen this though id have done the job

im guessing hammer and 11mm socket was involved in chewing up the fitting with the schrader valve on it? :P

[vRS Carl]

im guessing hammer and 11mm socket was involved in chewing up the fitting with the schrader valve on it? :P

Yeah whichever Cowboy it was that installed the Autotech internals put it back on too tight and when i used the 13mm ratchet spanner it just rounded off the edges

Will have to go and order a new one now

Carl:thumbup:

[Hauptmann]

Very useful thread.

Can anyone shed any light on why the engine should be set to TDC when doing this job? Its not obvious to me why this needs doing (not that its any bother to do).

Also, I would strongly recommend disconnecting the battery whilst doing this job....chance of spilt petrol and active electrics...

[Hedge]

If you set the engine at TDC then the forces on the pump are at the least and so it is easier to remove.

If not at TDC there is a chance you could bend the shaft when you tighten up the bolts.

[greek 5vrs]

Instead of disconnecting the battery it's easier to remove fuse number 27,I think.The motor will run for about 10 seconds and then it will stall as the fuel pump will have run out of gasoline.This is what my mechanic did last week when I had my KMD internals installed.

Edited 18 October, 2009 by greek 5vrs
seconds not minutes

[martziniuk]

Nice guide Carl, was the 14k covered on the hpfp internals and do you think they wear the lobe quicker?

I never put to TDC it's not necesary the pump goes on and off no probs.

Edited 18 October, 2009 by martziniuk
spelling

[vRS Carl]

I've had the HPFP in since about 13kmiles on the car so i have done 2 changes now (each at around 13-14k miles) of the Cam Follower

Carl:thumbup:

[muckipup]

Fantastic guide. I hope one of the mods can make this a sticky in the technical section.

I also picked up the Halfords Professional socket set at the weekend. Still pricey at £100 (alas no money off vouchers for me) but looks to be worth it as it will last a lifetime

[Karlos69]

Excellent write-up!

What's the wear like on the cam followers on a standard engine with no mods?

[martziniuk]

Tihis is mine after 84k on a standard car, it looks bad but just the very top layer has come off, the metal underneath is fully intact.

[psycholist]

How is the cam shaft for wear? Does the cam shaft wear more slowly than the follower? I've heard wear on the cam shaft is sometimes an issue with PD engines (though this might just be older PD's).

I'm getting a new timing belt in my 1.9PD at the next service (>60k miles) - should the cam and follower be inspected too?

[dan_the_v8man]

Can one of the mods put this in the Octy technical guides? spent ages trying to find this earlier

[muckipup]

Can anyone shed any light on why the engine should be set to TDC when doing this job? Its not obvious to me why this needs doing (not that its any bother to do).

If you set the engine at TDC then the forces on the pump are at the least and so it is easier to remove.

If not at TDC there is a chance you could bend the shaft when you tighten up the bolts.

I never put to TDC it's not necesary the pump goes on and off no probs.

I wanted to provide a somewhat late update to this thread as I was doing a bit of research ahead of fitting HPFP internals and stumbled on this post from a Greek website which I think the pictures of a dismantled VRS engine helps clarify some of the points above: Linky

In short, I think Ian and Martin are both right.

I'm afraid that it doesn't offer much reassurance at first glance as it shows a major failure of a HPFP cam lobe follower and subsequent damage to the lobe. Interestingly, it was with an APR pump. However, in my sniffing around the internet, I saw that cam follower failures on TFSIs can be found even with stock pumps and not just up-rated HPFPs - frequent checking of the cam follower is definitely recommended and this guide is a huge help in giving reassurance to do that. I think you would be very unlucky to suffer major failure if doing this - I'd still do it occasionally even with a stock pump!

On the subject of top dead centre being necessary or not, I think the pictures explain everything. The need/preference to have TDC is a little misleading as it suggests that there is a need to get the exact point of TDC as one would in working with timing mechanics etc. In reality, it is simply about the cam lobe (which has 3 'peaks' in it's design which push the cam follower covering the HPFP piston and power the pump) being on or near a ‘trough point’ (where the piston spring on the HPFP is decompressed), rather than finding TDC per se. It just so happens that setting TDC brings the pump to a trough in the lobe thus making it easier.

However, that is not to say setting TDC is necessary; Martin didn't bother after all and I assume nothing went boom. It just may be nicer to avoid removing or installing against the spring when it is at full compression; that is even if you happen to be at that point on the cam lobe cycle. In fact, I would guess that removal isn't a big deal if the nuts are removed evenly and it would be more about installing and pushing against a compressing the spring if the lobe was at a peak. Even then, I don't think it needs to be forced.

As I understand it, you would be a bit unlucky to switch the engine off and be at a peak in the cam lobe cycle purely down to probability (again the picture of the cam lobe and seeing where the spring would be compressed in a revolution would suggest this). I haven’t tried it but I guess it would also be quite easy to look through the hole left in the engine head side cover after the pump is removed to see where the cam lobe is at and rock the car in gear to move it around to a non-peak if necessary to aid refitment…just don’t use a lit match to look into the hole with open fuel lines in the area or prime the pump by opening the driver’s door :no:

Edited 3 February, 2010 by muckipup

[Ecomatt]

If the cam follower is worn, would it cause low pressure in the fuel system or bring up a fault code?

Edited 16 September, 2010 by 56OctyVRS

[vRS Carl]

Yes it CAN cause low pressure. But it depends on the level of damage.

You will probably get the MIL on the dash

The following error codes are sometimes also brought up

- P2293 (Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Performance)

- P0087 (Rail Fuel Pressure too Low)

- P1093 (Fuel Trim 2, Bank 1 Malfunction)

[Ecomatt]

Thanks Carl

I changed mine today and it was easy. Mine had the metal pipe and this requires an M8 Spline piece to undo it. Apart from that it is as stated above. Though I feel £23 for this follower is a bit steep by VW. Id be happier at paying nearly a tenner for it!

[bildo]

Bump for a great guide!

 

Planning to do this myself at the weekend. Did you guys ever figure out if TDC was essential? Sounds like a bit of a struggle to do that part on my own!

 

Any other advice that may have been gathered in the last 3-and-a-bit years would be great too!

 

Cheers chaps.

[coullstar]

Anyone done this with the 2 metal lower pipes?  Im just wondering what you need to do to remove the 2nd inner line?

[coullstar]

Anyone done this with the 2 metal lower pipes?  Im just wondering what you need to do to remove the 2nd inner line?

Okay its an M8 spline bit thats needed to get the inner lines bolt out.  Its tricky as there is no space but I used a the spline bit inside a 10mm socket with universal joint to get into it. 

[Dallen75]

Anyone done this with the 2 metal lower pipes? Im just wondering what you need to do to remove the 2nd inner line?

For the second inner line you will need an M8 triple square or 12 point socket looks like this from underneath

It's a bit of a pig but the best way I found was to loosen first (outer) line which is easy to get to with a 17mm spanner, move line slightly and unclip PCV pipe to make a bit more room. Then I used a set of decent pipe grips to crack the banjo bolt loose and then use socket to unscrew. Put a cloth or rag underneath incase it drops and to catch excess fuel. Fit new cam follower and pump, doesn't have to be TDC ! Press pump up against body with one hand and finger tighten all three bolts, then tighten with socket. To refit both pipes I firstly removed right hand side brass valve with a 17mm socket, be careful as it holds a small aluminium washer ! Put left hand side banjo bolt in finger tight the use grips to tighten again, then because of awkwardness use the socket last as there really ain't much room to work. Then refit right hand side brass valve with washer, then refit pipe. Nip everything up and replace bleed valve with 13mm spanner refit connectors etc.

[Mykz]

Hi guys i changed my follower on golf6R but i still dont get fuel press whats prob