can anyone tell me how long it wiil take to fit on 52 plate vrs ? also anyone recommend good place to get it done in north/east london or essex

thanks

had the car a week bought it with engine light on guy had test done at local garage on 4/9/09 codes were p0102 air mass sensor signal too low

p1297 connection from turbo to throttle valve pressure drop

p1127 multiplicative mixture correction 1 mixturetoo rich

p0012 camshaft advance 1 target value not attained

on way home the asr/traction control light on dash came on and stayed on. when engine turned of then on again light stays out for a few miles then comes on again

took to le car centre pluged into computer and they came back with needs a camshaft sensor

do these problems relate to camshaft sensor as dont wont to get work done which wont clear problem

thanks

p0102, p1297, p1127 are most likely related to a leak in the high pressure hose from the turbo. They could also be due to a faulty MAF but look into the hose leak fixed first as it is cheaper.

p0012 does not relate to the other faults as this is simply a magnetic sensor that measures the position of the camshaft (has nothing to do with the turbo or air intake path).

I'd get a new camshaft sensor in there asap. I haven't had to do one on the vRS but it was a 10 minute job on my old VR6 and the part was about £40 IIRC.

Cheers,

iep

i was told its about 2.5hrs same as cambelt change from dealer quote is £300 supply and fit has anyone had this done or is easy to do yourself

thanks

if helps just looked at history, breather hose replaced in 2008 and maf sensor replaced 3/2/09

Edited 22 October, 200916 yr by glag

Before you go changing the camshaft sensor,i would get the cam timing checked to make sure it,s spot on,a lot of people fit a new timing belt on the 1.8t engine and seem to get the cam timing a tooth out,and always comes up with a fault relating to the cam sensor.As for a boost leak try the breather hose under the inlet manifold,an old favourite for splitting.

According to Ross Tech, it doesn't appear to be a fault with the sensor:

16396/P0012/000018 - Ross-Tech Wiki

More like the hydraulic actuator for the variable valve timing on the inlet cam. I have seen set point errors caused by low oil pressure which has been caused by a blocked oil pick up in the sump, which is not an unknown problem with this engine.

Has the car been on fixed or variable service intervals? My advice is to get the oil pressure checked.

If the timing belt was on a tooth out, this would throw up an error along the lines of 'Camshaft/crank sensor incorrect corellation'.

it has been on variable sevices, every year if thats what it means

how can i check if hydraulic actuator for the variable valve timing on the inlet cam is the problem ?and wouldnt the diagnostic test i had at main dealer pick it up,

cambelt was changed on 10/10/07

boost leak i think ok no splits on hoses

thanks again

anyone on here used la car centre ?

had oil change,air and plugs, seems worse now when cold, (hesitating and a bit lumpy)

all i want is the right diagnosis to get it done without getting ripped off, changing parts that are not needed

thanks:confused:

bit the bullet car booked in weds, anymore info or advice ???

:confused:

what the f..k

driving the car tonight the engine management light has just gone out ? :confused:

why would light just go out ?

can the brain reset itself ? i did nothing different normal driving, turned car of and started again light still out (will try again in morning) car seems to be sluggish/hesitent :when driving normal/slow but ok when driving harder if they makes sense

as said dont want to go down replacing part after part want it done 1st time all help is appreciated

thanks:(

For some fault codes (abs for example) if the signal from the sensor returns to a normal level, the ECU will (after a while) reset the EPC light and store the fault code as 'intermittent'.

You need a re-read of the codes pot see what has happened (which code has become intermittent). With VW cars of this age, a VAG-COM cable from ebay is invaluable to fix niggling issues such as this.

As for your mechanic quoting £300, I think that seems a tad steep. The post below is for the Golf 1.8T GTI which I believe is the same as our vRS block:

VWvortex Forums: DIY cam positioning sensor (hall sensor)

Having said that, I did a quick search on Google (1.8T camshaft sensor vw) and a few posts have agreed with fordfan's diagnosis of a failing hydraulic actuator for the variable inlet timing. You'll want to get the oil pressure checked.

The good news is that a camshaft position sensor is not too expensive (£20 on eBay) and appears to be pretty easily DIYable. So you can probably swap one of these out as a diagnostic check.

Hope that helps,

iep

anyone on here local to highbury n.london i can contact ?

car is killing me,it now seems to be over heating

:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

Seems to be overheating? What are the symptoms?

iep

Seems to be overheating? What are the symptoms?

iep

think its thermostat ? fan wont kick in temp was over 90, head gasket seems ok , checked oil cap no gunge/white stuff on it etc

little water from exhaust is that norm ?

pm essex people with vag com waiting for reply, anyone with vag com in north london ?

engine management light still off as prev post asr light comes on after x miles turn engine of and on asr light is out

Hi,

I have Vag-com but am located in Herts (up A10 to Hertford then left onto A414).

That too far for you??

Peter

all good i have pm you

thanks

Before driving anywhere. Do the simple hose test. If the temp on the dash reads over 90 and the input and output hoses of the radiator are at different temperatures, the thermostat has probably failed closed and water is not circulating. If they are at the same temp then it is fair to assume all is well with the thermostat.

The other option would be that the fan has failed or the temp sensor that controls the fan has failed. As far as I am aware (and others please chime in on this one), the fan is controlled by an independent temp sense switch in the radiator rather than via the dash temp gauge or ECU.

To test this, check whether you have a voltage at the fan connector itself. If yes but the fan is not running, the fan has blown. If no voltage then the temp sense switch may be faulty.

This is true as of my old Golf VR6 and Polo 1.6GL and I expect it's still much the same.

Cheers,

iep

Good advice IEP,

Last thing you want to do with an ally engine is cook it and end up with a warped head. :thumbdwn:

Peter

i would be slightly worries about the cam sensor fault, you need to get the static timing checked properly, i ve seen soo many octys now with cam sens faults and its always because of incorrect timing, vvt doesnt actually vary the timing an awful lot so i d be surprised to see that causing the issue, plus you would have a fault code from the vvt solenoid if its not moving, as for the temp issue, very difficult to diagnose thermostat/head gasket etc correctly on the 1.8t, :(

seeing peter (thanks) tonight for vag com we will wait and see

i would be slightly worries about the cam sensor fault, you need to get the static timing checked properly, i ve seen soo many octys now with cam sens faults and its always because of incorrect timing, vvt doesnt actually vary the timing an awful lot so i d be surprised to see that causing the issue, plus you would have a fault code from the vvt solenoid if its not moving, as for the temp issue, very difficult to diagnose thermostat/head gasket etc correctly on the 1.8t, :(

will change sensor same time as thermostat, seems straight forward from pics iep sent alot cheaper than £312 from la car centre !!!

I dont think the sensor is at fault mate, more likely the belt timing as i said, checking is pretty straight forward, i m sure there is a guide on here somewhere:thumbup:

Put it this way, i ve never changed a cam sensor in 10 years of working on vw/skodas

went to peters did vag com test these are the codes (will upload print out)

16486

16396

17705

now the overheating problem

the fan does kick in, the temp gauge will stay at 90 when changing at 2000rpm with heater/blower on full and set on max temp, but when driving harder ie 3000/4000rpm the temp will keep on rising, could it be a lazy/faulty thermastat switch/sensor ? anyone had this ? should i change thermo anyway, no fault found on vag com relating to this:confused:

thanks again pete and if you can add anything to my post please do, as im sure your explain it better than me

Edited 29 October, 200916 yr by glag

now the overheating problem

when driving harder ie 3000/4000rpm the temp will keep on rising/QUOTE]

That's a classic symptom of a loose water pump impellor. It seems like you need a new water pump.

I was about to say, sounds like the water pump.

However, there is still a chance that it is the thermostat. When the Thermosts becomes jammed half open the temperature will be stable at low revs but start to rise as the engine works harder. Since this is MUCH easier/cheaper to change, I would have a look at it before paying for a new waterpump to be fitted.

Since the fan does come on, I wouldn't bother changing the temp sense switch in the radiator and there appears to be no evidence that the ECU temp sensor is broken either. So, leave these alone for the time being (no need for added expense right now).

Once the overheating issue is solved, then you can address the other issues.

Cheers,

iep