Hi all,

As above, i maybe taking the plunge later on next year to uprate the injectors and the turbo. If its possible to do so without creating major problems?

The car pulled 160bhp at the flywheel with a some unknown aggressive remap it had on before i bought the car. But i think thats been the key to many of my problems.

I later had it returned to standard of my own choice.

Now im starting to get the top side of things breaking/wearing out, im starting to think about achieving a reliable and sensible figure.

I typically dont want to have to rip the block apart and fit uprated studs for the head and bottom end. The only other downside is the engine is now coming up to 138k.

I do know its a low powered engine and its probably not worth spending so much, but i've put alot of money into the car so far and dont think its worth selling as i'll loose out quite a chunk of dollar.

So what are your thoughts guys/gals?

I'll be honest and say I wouldn't believe that 160bhp figure.

160bhp at the flywheel IMHO would push the stock turbo past what it can deliver.

In terms of the internals, I know the PD100's were strong and you could put PD130 injectors/turbo on them without too much issue, however if this is the same as the PD105 I couldn't say.

Not a 100% certian on this, will check with the lads at work tommorrow (work at a vw dealer, in parts) but isn't the block the same one used across the 105, 130, and 150 range of pd 1.9's? I think the only components governing the power are the turbo, intercooler, and injectors etc but will check for you. Got a nagging feeling in the back of my mind the 150 may have slightly stronger internals but not sure??? But if built right then the block should cope with 170bhp ish? Hope this helps, and will find out for sure tommorrow for you.

Ian

the vw crankshafts are immensely strong and imho should be worthy of more than 300bhp before it breaks into a sweat.

as for the other bits i expect jason will be more clued up on the diesel components

Thanks for the input guys, i was particulaly worried about the studs holding the block and head together mainly. As i dont entirely want to strip the engine down and have to put stronger bolts in. As thats a little further than i want to go.

The other naging question is the DMF, i've read on the PD130 there good for around 300 ft/lbs of torque? I'm not sure of what bhp that would be equivelant to though?

As for the intercooler side of things, the standard one is the size of the main radiator ( i dont have aircon) so i suppose the supply of air to the cooler is better. But i dont know what the efficiency of the flow through the intercooler is.

I wasn't entirely sure about the power figures either, but the results are what the engine achieved on the Awesome GTI RR day held a few months since. It did give 150bhp at the wheels, a fellow member achieved 145bhp at the wheels on supermarket fuel. The car was on a cocktail of V-Power Diesel and a double dose of Millers DS4. It didn't half fly with that and the unknown map that was on.

Oggy said it didn't hang about though, was a rather large smog cloud following me out of The Snipe car park

As for the standard turbo not enjoying the 160bhp, i dont think it did seeing as it went pop under a full throttle overtake on the M1 at Xmas.

I'm just trying to gather some info at the moment, before i go and jump in at the deep end. As its not going to be something that im going to do all at once like many other members. And not willing to go to daft lengths as i want the car to be usuable around town still.

I was thinking along the lines of a reliable 170-180bhp, maybe a little more if it was safe to do so.

Many Thanks Again!

Hybrid turbo, regular clean air filters(every 10k miles) , a few new pipes and bigger injectors and I'd can't see why you wouldn't see a reliable 160-170bhp

You might even not need the new injectors, but I'd be surprised if the PD105 injectors would allow the custom map to flow enough fuel to cope with the extra boost from the turbo.

Edited 28 October, 200916 yr by cheezemonkhai

Me and Ben seem to think the remap that was on at the time was pushing the injectors towards 100% fuel duty.

I personally think it has taken its tole on them though, if you give the throttle a firm sharp but quick shove to the floor whilst someone has the headlights on behind you. You can see a plume of smog hanging around even on the stock map for some time after.

I've read on other forums that the PD100 injectors become maxed out at around the 150bhp mark.

I was looking at a catback exhaust to free things up, although i was hoping the intercooler may have been enough given its size. But i do understand the flow would probably suffer.

I think i maybe starting something many people dont attempt to do, but i have a feeling if it does go ahead then i'll be running some track days.

My bad, i meant hybrid turbo (now corrected).

I think the IC will be fine unless you start hitting hot conditions, but if unsure then I guess you could see how much one from a PD170 differs from yours. You might even find it's the same part which would mean yours is rated for far more than it's currently dealing with

Oh right, i was looking into a hybrid version of the standard turbo but i was wondering if there were any larger turbo's out there that had a clamp fitting rather than a stud fitting.

How would a hybrid turbo cope in terms of longetivity and driveability?

The car spends most of its time in stop start traffic you see, rather than plodding along at a constant.

I do keep the car maintained as per the manufacturers recommendation (fixed service), so lack of maintenance is not going to be a issue.

Could anyone with the right software or knowledge give me any idea how the PD170 intercooler compares to a PD105 intercooler?

The only other issue i can now see is braking, i have FSIII callipers and to upgrade to 312mm discs would mean a exchange of front hubs etc etc. Would performance pads and discs of the 288mm size suffice?

Hybrid is usually a case of putting the stronger internals into a case of a smaller turbo that matches up with your car.

As such it mean you don't need lots of expensive custom pipework.

If you speak to turbo technics about hybrids I am sure they will be able to tell you all you need to know:

Turbo Technics

So a hybrid would be the best bet, seeing as im not going the the lengths that jason's going to .

Its something thats on the cards at the moment, but who knows...i think if it went ahead then around 170bhp would be a good reliable figure which shouldn't destroy the DMF all too quickly? And maybe i would probably be seen around a few track days

The bhp won't destroy the DMF, it's the torque and you can have your custom map tuned to suit on that

Well you knew what i meant :P

Just something that keeps passing through my mind, i dont fancy replacing it yet as its only got 25-30k on it.

I was expecting a few more people to have commented on this by now, maybe people are thinking its not worth doing?

The only other issue i can now see is braking, i have FSIII callipers and to upgrade to 312mm discs would mean a exchange of front hubs etc etc. Would performance pads and discs of the 288mm size suffice?

Get some Ferodo DS2500's on, made a hell of a difference to my vRS

if your goin to upgrade to 312mm id be tempted to not bother, save a bit more and go for the R32/S3 345mm caliper or a porsche conversion like Bens

Problem being dan that the hubs that my callipers fit to dont allow for 312mm brake conversion :( otherwise i'd have had some on by now hehe.

When the car was mapped, i never suffered from fade unless i tried to make them fade with repeated braking sequences. So maybe they would be ok for every day to day use with performance pads.

On track days even with racing brake fluid i think I would be worried about loosing them and pileing into something.

Edited 29 October, 200916 yr by Browny_37

The FSIII are good, so with DOT5.1 (super 4) fluid and a set of decent pads (DS2500) I think you'll be fine.

I think the point being made, was that if you're going to go through all the effort to change the hubs for 312mm, you might as well go for 323mm or the Brembo set up of a Cupra R+ for not much more.

Problem being dan that the hubs that my callipers fit to dont allow for 312mm brake conversion :( otherwise i'd have had some on by now hehe.

When the car was mapped, i never suffered from fade unless i tried to make them fade with repeated braking sequences. So maybe they would be ok for every day to day use with performance pads.

On track days even with racing brake fluid i think I would be worried about loosing them and pileing into something.

what i meant was, if you've got to go to all the effort of getting new hubs, might aswell go for something a bit better than the 312mm's i.e. 345mm S3/R32 setup

I'm planning on a software only remap for my PD 105. Not looking for anything crazy, but better throttle response and heading for 140 bhp are my targets without any hardware changes at all (There are a few remaps around this power level that seem reliable). I also plan to get the timing belt changed before the extra power goes in...

Since my insurance comes up for renewal next month and I won't know till after the rolling road what the actual power output is, what should I tell the insurance people to ensure I'm covered?

Anyone know who in Ireland to talk to about insurance for anything that's not completely stock? Most of them seem to refuse even though the same car is available with a 140 hp engine, so it wouldn't be stepping outside the design spec for the car.

I'm tempted to call it a PD 130 engine, but this probably doesn't tell the full story (A friend of mine has his remapped PD105 engine declared to insurance this way, but it's not like he's had an accident and verified this will hold water).

A safe map would be 135-140bhp...anything extra is starting to ask for trouble.

I found out the car had been mapped quite hard, and it has taken its tole on the components.

Just been reading on the mkivs and to get to this level of power out of a PD100.

My ATD is putting out about 200bhp. Spec list below:

130/150bhp intake manifold

130/150bhp pressure converter

130/150bhp airbox lid (smoothed)

130/150bhp MAF and MAF housing

130/150bhp intake flex piping

150bhp Aluminium Turbo Intake pipe

150bhp MAP sensor

R32 DSG intake snorkel

Allard EGR blanking pipe

Turboback Milltek discreet exhaust with large bore downpipe

Garrett GT1749VB 150bhp Turbo

130/150bhp fuel injectors

Silicon Vac and boost pipes

Eurojet front mounted intercooler

Im starting to think i may need a larger inlet manifold?

Was going to mention having a look on ukmkiv's, There's alot of people on there who have done the sort of upgrades your looking into. Some of the threads do go back 2-3years and some of them have now changed cars due to long running problems which like any forum tend to be kept quiet as no-one likes to admit their car has problems since tinkering.

It's a large amount of money you are looking at spending which ultimatly will make your car much less desirable in years to come when you decide to sell it on.

My pd130 is running a sach organic clutch alongside the OEM DMF which is still the original one and now has over 130k on it, the clutch started to slip at around 80/85k with 320ftlb and has since been upgraded to run 343ftlb (clutch is only rated to 350ftlb so I'm going no further).

If I'm honest I wouldn't want to increase the power anymore, I find it more than enough with my mear 23-25k miles per year and found that the best way to increase the fun factor was to upgrade the suspension/brakes, they in my opinion are the best mods I've done and had I have done them 1st I probably wouldn't have had the remap or miltek exhaust or clutch done saving over £1500.

Either way I hope you reach what goals you have set out for yourself and I shall no-doubt be watching with envy

Yes you will need a larger inlet manifold, you are in essense going to be building a PD150 engine & turbo setup

Edited 3 November, 200916 yr by matt@theforce

I think this is going to get out of slightly out of hand, and is going to typically involve more than i originally thought.

I would have thought the inlet manifold would have easily been able to flow more than 150bhp, i also thought the majority of the restriction would probably have been in the inlet ports to the head?

Coming to the discussion about the brakes and suspension, there in a area where im quite happy with them for road driving. The eibach's hold alot better than the original suspension, although they can be a little crashy on bumpy roads.

I did think about upgrading to Koni FSD's but the cost has steered me away, i did then think about the Eibach front and rear antiroll bar kit but i've never decided if to do it or not. As i think i would have to be using the car for the track if they were going to be installed.

The brakes is a area where im undecided on, again it would have to involve track use to have to upgrade for bigger discs. Which in turn would mean the hubs would have to be changed :(

If it had have been a case of switching the discs/pads and callipers for 312mm ones then i would have more than likely snapped them up.

The other alternative would be to use grooved discs with some sort of fast road/racing pads and a DOT 5.1 brake fluid upgrade. How they would hold up to track use i dont know.

Im in too minds as to keep the car yet, it does 32-36mpg around town. Which for stop start driving in Sheffield is a saviour, but with 105bhp it seems pretty gutless especially on the motorway.

The cost and countless things i've done to this car is getting me down a little, and im no where near being completely happy with it at the moment.

I do like the car, but i find that once i sort one problem.....i've got another and it feels a little demoralising.

If you want to do brake upgrades, keep the OEM discs and get some grippy pads (DS2500 etc) as already said.

I'd anticipate these eat the discs? If so what sort of mileage would you think the discs would be capable of?

Obviously this depends on how hard they are used, but with average driving with some fast use every now and then. Typically how long would you think they'd last?

Not really.

All grooved discs do is eat through the pad faster, so unless your tracking it and want to avoid glazed pads when really killing the things, I'd say plain discs and upgraded pads.