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Why I Like My Morris 1000

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Well after years of tinkering with modern cars, and the crazy faults you can get, due to all the electronic gubbins they cram into them these days. I realised just how many tools I have bought, and then looked at the tools I need to repair the Moggy.

1: A Hammer

2: A Bigger Hammer

:rofl:

I just looked at the electrical manual for a Superb 2, and my poor old brain when into melt down :rofl:

Little competition for you lot. From the factory, how many fuses where fitted to a Morris 1000 Traveller in standard form?

Winner gets a free fault code scan, if they bring the car to me :rofl: (Livingston)

Umm.. 3?

I'll go for two :)

If it's like the mini it was 4, but then the morris might be simpler.

I think it was four fuses .......I like all the morris 1000 ...A35...A40 type cars.....I once did an engine and gearbox change (one out one back in and running) in just over 90 minutes on an A40 :rofl:

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Umm.. 3?

First answer and we have a winner :D Fuse 1 35 Amps Unswitched live Fuse 2 35 Amps switched through ignition Fuse 3 10 Amp for side lights.

So, well done that man :thumbup:

Four but you probably have to change them every week

First answer and we have a winner :D Fuse 1 35 Amps Unswitched live Fuse 2 35 Amps switched through ignition Fuse 3 10 Amp for side lights.

So, well done that man :thumbup:

Woohoo! But I'll pass on the VAGCOM scan as 12,000 miles is a bit far to come :D

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Four but you probably have to change them every week

Cheeky Monkey :rofl: Never had one fail, although I did have to replace the fusebox a few years back. Cost me all of £4.96 for a brand new Lucas unit. :D

I think it was four fuses .......I like all the morris 1000 ...A35...A40 type cars.....I once did an engine and gearbox change (one out one back in and running) in just over 90 minutes on an A40 :rofl:

Did some one say A40 - say MK2 Farina -only ftime mine let me down was when I changed the old fashioned two piece pointsfor the "new " one piece quick fit one -and 50 miles later the insulationpiece on the top went S/C .Otherwise it was the Austin equivalent of the MOGGY -same mechanicals/electricals but Italian styled body .Tried and trusted technology .

Did some one say A40 - say MK2 Farina -only ftime mine let me down was when I changed the old fashioned two piece pointsfor the "new " one piece quick fit one -and 50 miles later the insulationpiece on the top went S/C .Otherwise it was the Austin equivalent of the MOGGY -same mechanicals/electricals but Italian styled body .Tried and trusted technology .

A40 the first and original hatchback car :D and mine was a mk1....cost me a fortune .......£15 I think

a40farinamk1.jpg

A40 the first and original hatchback car :D and mine was a mk1....cost me a fortune .......£15 I think

a40farinamk1.jpg

AHH -Nostalgie - mine cost a bit more ,was an upgrade from a Wolesley 1500 -mnine was a blue colour ( with the traditional BMC ruddy patches)

Mrs V still looks back on it,with fond memories -after all we spent our first times together in it .;)

I carried tools in it ,but TBH -apart from change oil ,plugs and points - (and then clean bits you'd touched) -you just got in and drove it .

The old BMC Elephant - feed it buns,give it water and it'll go on forever .( If you omit to see the rot)

I hasten to add that was not mine in the picture ....mine had loads of rusty coloured bits and no front bumper....oh and blue doors because they had wind up windows :rofl:

i remember being told on a Ford technical course down in sunny Daventry, that in the future vehicles will require less wiring for all the modules and components to work, this was when the Canbus networks were just coming in, Ford tutor you lied

they basically said that only four wires were needed for each component, positive, negative and the CAN + and CAN - , so therefore saving weight and money on copper wiring

so what happened then Ford ? or VAG ? or whoever

i remember being told on a Ford technical course down in sunny Daventry, that in the future vehicles will require less wiring for all the modules and components to work, this was when the Canbus networks were just coming in, Ford tutor you lied

they basically said that only four wires were needed for each component, positive, negative and the CAN + and CAN - , so therefore saving weight and money on copper wiring

so what happened then Ford ? or VAG ? or whoever

I remember a similar talk at an IEEE lecture back in 1986/7ish. I remember thinking that it sounded like an over-complex way to wire up lights.

I suppose some of the problem is if you had only the 4 wires to each component, then each component would need a CANbus controller in it to decode the instructions, and relays/switching to carry them out. It might be more sensible to have (say) 4 or 5 contollers arount the car, and fan the wiring out from there.

Well after years of tinkering with modern cars, and the crazy faults you can get, due to all the electronic gubbins they cram into them these days. I realised just how many tools I have bought, and then looked at the tools I need to repair the Moggy.

1: A Hammer

2: A Bigger Hammer

:rofl:

And duct tape, as the saying goes. If it moves, and shouldn't use the tape. If it doesn't move, but should, use the hammer.

Little competition for you lot. From the factory, how many fuses where fitted to a Morris 1000 Traveller in standard form?

Winner gets a free fault code scan, if they bring the car to me :rofl: (Livingston)

I'll guess 4, as ISTR a few old british cars having a 4-way fusebox. I've got my own scanner though- is there an alternative?

edit: Aaaw, someone has already won.

and if the neither the hammer or duct tape work then it must be electrical :)

mark

and if the neither the hammer or duct tape work then it must be electrical :)

mark

And that calls for the the even bigger hammer :rofl:

If we're talking old cars related to the A40 , I'll have one of these please.

1958%20Nash%20metropolitan%20Drvr%20Front.JPG

Nash Metropolitan, Hmmm

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While I appreciate most modern cars are much safer than your average classic, some of the new features are just crazy. The Nissan GTR bonnet safety system for pedestrian safety being a prime example. One shot bonnet lifter rams and one shot safety ECU, that cost £3000+ to replace after the most minor of bumps.

I remember an instance of fault finding on a friends VW Polo automatic that would not allow you to select any gears with the engine running. You could select park or neutral, and that was it. The cause was two blown brake light bulbs. Later discovered it was an ECU software issue that would cause it. :rotz:

i remember being told on a Ford technical course down in sunny Daventry, that in the future vehicles will require less wiring for all the modules and components to work, this was when the Canbus networks were just coming in, Ford tutor you lied

they basically said that only four wires were needed for each component, positive, negative and the CAN + and CAN - , so therefore saving weight and money on copper wiring

so what happened then Ford ? or VAG ? or whoever

There are less wires, but it's relative.

CAN means there are a lot less wires in the car than their would have been had the same number of features been put in with a discrete bus for each component.

I heard someone that I know say you could strip an old mini with only two sizes of (imperial) spanners. :eek:

If it's like my old Metro, then when you lift the bonnet you know exactly what every pipe and wire does. The only microchip is the one in your stereo (if fitted) and/or your digital watch. Just how many computers is there in a modern car? :confused:

Edited by Jim H

I heard someone that I know say you could strip an old mini with only two sizes of (imperial) spanners. :eek:

If it's like my old Metro, then when you lift the bonnet you know exactly what every pipe and wire does. The only microchip is the one in your stereo (if fitted) and/or your digital watch.

And possibly those from McCain in the boot);)

I heard someone that I know say you could strip an old mini with only two sizes of (imperial) spanners. :eek:

A fair amount of the bolts would indeed come off with a 1/2 AF and one other, but there's bigger fastners- Ball joints are one that springs to mind.

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