Octavia 1.9TDi 110HP Problems

[agent47c2000]

Hello all,

I cant really afford the freedom membership as i currently have insurance and a few problems to contend with.

I used to be a skoda technician so only need guidance and not being guided like a newbie would.

Problems are as follows.

1. Start enging and the coolant light beeps and flashes. Coolant level is fine and the fuses are all intact.

2. Cold starting the engine sometimes takes for ages, Sometimes the GP light goes straight out, other times it stays on for ages. WHen it stays on it will start fine. When it struggles to start it will chuck out loads of smoke.

3. Cold engine, you rev it to say pull off or drive up the road and it will splutter and stall. No compression then can be heard and takes a few mins of rest to finally stir back into life.

Now i think i know the fixes but im not 100% sure as its been 3 years since working for skoda and 2 years since i worked on a car due to injury.

1. Coolant header tank, was the 1st thing that came to my head and some searches seem to confirm this. Am i right??

2. Cold be the G-- temp sender or the glow plugs (doubt its the cold start relay)

3. Never heard this problem before and local garage said there is no known fix for this.

CAn people help or shed light on these issues

Regards

Richard

[trundlenut]

Hello all,

1. Coolant header tank, was the 1st thing that came to my head and some searches seem to confirm this. Am i right??

2. Cold be the G-- temp sender or the glow plugs (doubt its the cold start relay)

3. Never heard this problem before and local garage said there is no known fix for this.

CAn people help or shed light on these issues

Regards

Richard

1 does sound like muck on the prongs in the expansion tank causing the warning, give it a scrape with a screwdriver.

2 I had these symptons and changing the 109 relay sorted it. Does it start OK if you unplug the coolant temp sensor?

3 Weird, could it be the 109 relay, when cold can you hear a click when the revs rise above 2000ish?

Edited 28 December, 2009 by trundlenut

[TrevorB33]

Hello all,

I cant really afford the freedom membership as i currently have insurance and a few problems to contend with.

I used to be a skoda technician so only need guidance and not being guided like a newbie would.

Problems are as follows.

1. Start enging and the coolant light beeps and flashes. Coolant level is fine and the fuses are all intact.

2. Cold starting the engine sometimes takes for ages, Sometimes the GP light goes straight out, other times it stays on for ages. WHen it stays on it will start fine. When it struggles to start it will chuck out loads of smoke.

3. Cold engine, you rev it to say pull off or drive up the road and it will splutter and stall. No compression then can be heard and takes a few mins of rest to finally stir back into life.

Now i think i know the fixes but im not 100% sure as its been 3 years since working for skoda and 2 years since i worked on a car due to injury.

1. Coolant header tank, was the 1st thing that came to my head and some searches seem to confirm this. Am i right??

2. Cold be the G-- temp sender or the glow plugs (doubt its the cold start relay)

3. Never heard this problem before and local garage said there is no known fix for this.

CAn people help or shed light on these issues

Regards

Richard

i think your right usually its the header tank sensor that plays up for the light coming on,

no2 yep coolant temp sensor would be my first port of call too, see if you have an old type black one fitted common for failure, new type ones are green, glow plugs are dirt cheap anyway so you may well want to do these too, however my old tdi 110 always used to puff out some smoke after firing, i thought they all did, lol

and no three sounds very strange have you got access to a code reader to check the faults, could possible be the maf starting to go

[agent47c2000]

1 does sound like muck on the prongs in the expansion tank causing the warning, give it a scrape with a screwdriver.

2 I had these symptons and changing the 109 relay sorted it. Does it start OK if you unplug the coolant temp sensor?

3 Weird, could it be the 109 relay, when cold can you hear a click when the revs rise above 2000ish?

Ill have a listen for the relay when im next in looking at the car (tomorrow its supposed to rain a snow so i wont be looking then and too dark and cold to go messing tonight

i think your right usually its the header tank sensor that plays up for the light coming on,

no2 yep coolant temp sensor would be my first port of call too, see if you have an old type black one fitted common for failure, new type ones are green, glow plugs are dirt cheap anyway so you may well want to do these too, however my old tdi 110 always used to puff out some smoke after firing, i thought they all did, lol

and no three sounds very strange have you got access to a code reader to check the faults, could possible be the maf starting to go

will have a look what colour i have for the sender.

Also im going to do my glow plugs anyway as i like to keep things in good working condition (just passed another mot with absolutly nothing brought to light or failed

Also I will see if i can get my mate to come read the faults for me (wish i had kept the olf 1552 reader from my garage that closed down)

[agent47c2000]

II have the Black sender, so that will be the problem as it worked today when it was fairly cold, but other temp ranges it struggles to start.

Started missfiring today (not been run in ages) but stopped it and started again and was fine.

Ill replace that sender and then once i can confirm its fixed, ill replace the glow plugs.

Replaced the sender now, Replacing the battery tomorrow in the light, will let you know if all sorted

Edited 15 January, 2010 by agent47c2000

[felicia16v]

the glow plugs are only there for smoke emmisions t should start ok without them its direct injection..

the coolant sensor may make a differance.

we had one that would lose all its compression if you revved it a bit scared me to deat the first time, in the end it was narrowed down to the oil pressure releif valve sticking closed and the oil pressure getting too high and pushing the hydraulic tappits open to far so the valves didn't close fully, only happened when the oil was cold too

[Rustle]

the glow plugs are only there for smoke emmisions t should start ok without them its direct injection..

I was under the impression a diesel engine needed glow plugs to warm the cylinders in order for the engine fire on initial start up!!!!!!!!!

Why would they be linked to emmsions?????????????

[felicia16v]

the glow plugs are only there for smoke emmisions t should start ok without them its direct injection..

I was under the impression a diesel engine needed glow plugs to warm the cylinders in order for the engine fire on initial start up!!!!!!!!!

Why would they be linked to emmsions?????????????

google direct diesel injection.

all they do on the oct is clean the emmisions up a bit ie cut smoke a little, it will start with none connected. for instance all the old ford transits diesel engines have no glow plugs at all.

indirect injection needs glow plugs as the chamber the fuel is injected into does not get as hot directly

[Rustle]

ame='Rustle' date='16 January 2010 - 13:50' timestamp='1263649805' post='1862647']

google direct diesel injection.

all they do on the oct is clean the emmisions up a bit ie cut smoke a little, it will start with none connected. for instance all the old ford transits diesel engines have no glow plugs at all.

indirect injection needs glow plugs as the chamber the fuel is injected into does not get as hot directly

Tell me why then every VW Diesel Direct Injection engined car I have had ( 8 in total ) would not start on a cold day without them??? And after replacing the glow plugs started straight on the turn of the key? Before you say they must have been worn engines I had 3 of them from new & serviced every 5k?

[felicia16v]

ok i'm not after an arguement but the glow plug data for the octavia states that it issues no glow command untill -5 starting,

as soon as the engine is started they operate on afterglow untill 40 degrees is reached,

how old were these direct injection engines? as most of the older stuff was indirect injection (infact up untill around 1997) and an indirect engine will not go without glowplugs..

i've worked for skoda since 1993 and have lots of paperwork regarding the diesel stuff but am stuck at home for the next 5 weeks having just had an operation on my knee

[Rustle]

Sorry to hear it & not after an argument just confused!

All but 2 of the cars were post 1997

[felicia16v]

the best i can find about it at the mo is this..

The glow plug system, used for cold starts, is also controlled by the ECU. When the "ignition" switch is turned "on" and the coolant temperature is below 9 degrees C, the glow plugs operate for a time which depends on the measured coolant temperature (i.e. about 10 seconds at -10 degrees C). The glow plug indication lamp on the instrument panel is an indication to the driver - "please wait". When this light goes off, the engine may be started. After it starts, the glow plugs operate for a period of time with the engine running, at engine speeds below 2500 rpm, in order to reduce emissions and improve engine operation during this time period. The glow plug indicator lamp does not operate during this stage.

In addition, some models have glow plugs in the coolant, to make the engine warm up faster, and to provide some heat to the passenger compartment sooner. These glow plugs operate for a period of time after the engine starts (without the glow plug indicator lamp).

Some may be under the impression that the glow plugs begin operating when the driver's door is opened. This is an "urban myth". The glow plugs do not operate until the key is turned "on".

got this from www.tdiclub.com . i was wrong about the temp they are activated at but this data is for american spec cars which are specced a bit lower than ours due to the crap fuel they have.

jim

[Rustle]

the best i can find about it at the mo is this..

The glow plug system, used for cold starts, is also controlled by the ECU. When the "ignition" switch is turned "on" and the coolant temperature is below 9 degrees C, the glow plugs operate for a time which depends on the measured coolant temperature (i.e. about 10 seconds at -10 degrees C). The glow plug indication lamp on the instrument panel is an indication to the driver - "please wait". When this light goes off, the engine may be started. After it starts, the glow plugs operate for a period of time with the engine running, at engine speeds below 2500 rpm, in order to reduce emissions and improve engine operation during this time period. The glow plug indicator lamp does not operate during this stage.

In addition, some models have glow plugs in the coolant, to make the engine warm up faster, and to provide some heat to the passenger compartment sooner. These glow plugs operate for a period of time after the engine starts (without the glow plug indicator lamp).

Some may be under the impression that the glow plugs begin operating when the driver's door is opened. This is an "urban myth". The glow plugs do not operate until the key is turned "on".

got this from www.tdiclub.com . i was wrong about the temp they are activated at but this data is for american spec cars which are specced a bit lower than ours due to the crap fuel they have.

jim

Thanks for the info I'm now a little wiser

[KenONeill]

(1) As others, it's the coolant sensor mis-diagnosing that the car is overheating. You can:-

a) Let it happen, run the engine for about 30s, switch off, remove the key and restart.

b ) [it's a bullet point, not a smilie] As suggested clean the prongs in the header with a screwdriver.

c) replace the header tank; IIRC it's about £15.

Glow plugs. AIUI a DI engine is helped by glow plugs, but will almost certainly start without them, albeit with a bit more cranking.

Edited 18 January, 2010 by KenONeill

[momon121]

(1) As others, it's the coolant sensor mis-diagnosing that the car is overheating. You can:-

a) Let it happen, run the engine for about 30s, switch off, remove the key and restart.

b ) [it's a bullet point, not a smilie] As suggested clean the prongs in the header with a screwdriver.

c) replace the header tank; IIRC it's about £15.

Glow plugs. AIUI a DI engine is helped by glow plugs, but will almost certainly start without them, albeit with a bit more cranking.

Hi,

i have the same issue i have a occy tdi 2001 and recently changed the glow plugs but still does not fire up. I have the coolant sensor light on misleading to believe it could be a fault with others. The car has been hooked onto a computer and it was not able to read anything from EMS. Do you think it could be to do with van aaken box fitted to the pump. Strangely the car starts when the easy spray is applied.