Hi All

Just seeking a bit of advice. One of my studs on my downpipe has sheared flush possibly when the miltek system was installed before I owned the car so its a turbo out job. I was thinking of doubling up on the nuts on the remaining studs until I have the time to sacrifice the car for a week or is this ill advised? Problem is over time they seem to have loosened off.

Once I get round to having the turbo out I was thinking of sending it to Turbo technics or turbo dynamics to at least refurb and possibly upgrade. I was looking for some opinions as forum users seem to have used both. Alternatively are there any other companies that offer the same service that i should consider?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

James

Flush with the web on the downpipe or the one on the turbo? If you're lucky and it's the one on the downpipe, then you should be able to remove the stub with PlusGas, heat and a head stud extractor.

One of mine snapped flush with the downpipe, so when i went to fit a new system i used this stud extractor

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-14156-Stud-Extractor-6-19mm/dp/B0001K9Q1S

worked a treat, i didnt have to use plusgas or heat, but i may have been lucky,

and just as a matter of course i replaced all of the studs and bolts while the downpipe was off

HTH

Are the threaded holes in the turbine housing through holes or blind holes?

If it's a fully threaded through hole you can sometimes spin the snapped stud on through and out the other side, with a drill bit, powerdrill and patience. Obviously depends on how much room you have to work around the turbo in situ.

If it's snapped flush to the downpipe flange then use an extractor like Mark said.

Are the threaded holes in the turbine housing through holes or blind holes?

If it's a fully threaded through hole you can sometimes spin the snapped stud on through and out the other side, with a drill bit, powerdrill and patience. Obviously depends on how much room you have to work around the turbo in situ.

If it's snapped flush to the downpipe flange then use an extractor like Mark said.

im not 100% but im pretty sure its a blind hole

Guys much appreciated for replies. Mark so you got the stud out while in situ.

if so may save me some money. I can't work out for the life of me work out how this draper extractor works.

Edited 14 January, 201016 yr by J_A_R_B

Guys much appreciated for replies. Mark so you got the stud out while in situ.

if so may save me some money. I can't work out for the life of me work out how this draper extractor works.

Yep it was all done in situ, i was expecting to take the turbo out so i had all the gaskets etc ready, but then gave it a go, and it worked, so that made my day!

With regards to the stud extractor, the whole thing turns, so you choose the correct size hole (shown in left of pic) for the studs,

then literally just attatch a socket and turn the cam until it contacts the stud, the whole device will grip and then spin your stud out.

Its alot easier to see how it all works once the tool is in your hand, trust me, it took me a little while to decide how it worked as well

That's what I meant by a "head stud extractor" above; not the LH threaded tap that requires drilling into the broken stud. The reason for the difference is that these things are used for fitting and extracting studs to cylinder heads.

http://www.carrlane.com/SiteData/WebRefs/Images/TI_Info_01-12.gif

heres a pic of what ken said not to use, some people know them as "ez-outs"

Edited 14 January, 201016 yr by mark_sargeant19