I've just had an experience with the brakes on my 06, secondhand fabia 1.2. I was gradually slowing down in anticipation of more cars moving infront of me to avoid an RTC, applying the brakes more and more. I eventually ended up having to put my foot right to the floor and instead of a harsh responce, I got very little.

Is this a normal problem with older fabias, or just my brakes getting old and neeind replacing? I mentioned another problem with them to the dealer a week after I got it, where there was a slight sqeek under partial braking and they said they were fine.

I've just had an experience with the brakes on my 06, secondhand fabia 1.2. I was gradually slowing down in anticipation of more cars moving infront of me to avoid an RTC, applying the brakes more and more. I eventually ended up having to put my foot right to the floor and instead of a harsh responce, I got very little.

Is this a normal problem with older fabias, or just my brakes getting old and neeind replacing? I mentioned another problem with them to the dealer a week after I got it, where there was a slight sqeek under partial braking and they said they were fine.

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Check to see if you have any leaks, at the wheel cylinders,and the brake master cylinder, which means a seal is faulty . If no leaks, and the fluid level is OK,then the Master Cylinder has become faulty ,where the brake fluid is passing the seals. There is no way the brake pedal should be able to be pushed to the floor.

I have to say, I had my brakes changed recently as i failed my mot on a brake imbalance... loads of pad on the front, plenty disc left and the difference new stock pads/discs has made is impressive

Could just be the pads/discs you have aren't very good?

Run it up to high speed and give it all, but release the brakes before you stop.

That should sort it out

The brakes on the 1.2 are really pants anyway, so add a few years of age/wear and tear, then they will only get WORSE.

Probably best to check the usual things like pad depths and disc wear.

Brake fluid also should be changed every 2years, otherwise you end up getting INCREASED spongey/long brake pedal travel feeling.

The brakes on the 1.2 are really pants anyway, so add a few years of age/wear and tear, then they will only get WORSE.

Probably best to check the usual things like pad depths and disc wear.

Brake fluid also should be changed every 2years, otherwise you end up getting INCREASED spongey/long brake pedal travel feeling.

Thats what I suspected. Also, I get the feeling the previous owner didn't look after it perticularly well anyway. Screenwash was never topped up when I got it (or was only done with water by the dealer), covered in scratches and chips in the door steps/boot, which is why the pads probably never had much attention paid to them.

The brake fluid was done at its last services before I got it I think.

What depth should the pads be at?

Edited 6 February, 201016 yr by Gumby

Thats what I suspected. Also, I get the feeling the previous owner didn't look after it perticularly well anyway. Screenwash was never topped up when I got it (or was only done with water by the dealer), covered in scratches and chips in the door steps/boot, which is why the pads probably never had much attention paid to them.

The brake fluid was done at its last services before I got it I think.

What depth should the pads be at?

The pads, in my world, should be at least as thick as the pad's backing metal plate. I think that the MOT requirement is a lot lower than that though and normally if they are "half thickness" MOT places tend to issue a warning - if for no other reason that to cover their backs if you just happen to go to the moon and back before the next MOT - backs sense though!

Just have a look, you should be able to see the friction material abd where the backing metal plate starts, one thing though, to be sure about "how they are", you should really get the wheels off and check up on what the rear face of the discs looks like and both faces of both discs should be shiny steel and not black or brown - they might start off lookinh nasty after sitting over night, but after a few applications they should be back to being nice and shiny - if you are looking for good performance, also remember that the pads and shoes etc will get galzed with salt from the de-icing stuff that gets put down on the roads at this time of year - so a few hard applications as suggested earlier should remove some of that.

The pads, in my world, should be at least as thick as the pad's backing metal plate. I think that the MOT requirement is a lot lower than that though and normally if they are "half thickness" MOT places tend to issue a warning - if for no other reason that to cover their backs if you just happen to go to the moon and back before the next MOT - backs sense though!

Just have a look, you should be able to see the friction material abd where the backing metal plate starts, one thing though, to be sure about "how they are", you should really get the wheels off and check up on what the rear face of the discs looks like and both faces of both discs should be shiny steel and not black or brown - they might start off lookinh nasty after sitting over night, but after a few applications they should be back to being nice and shiny - if you are looking for good performance, also remember that the pads and shoes etc will get galzed with salt from the de-icing stuff that gets put down on the roads at this time of year - so a few hard applications as suggested earlier should remove some of that.

Cheers, I'll get the wheels off tomorrow and have a look. Any suggestions on how much will cost to get them replaced if they are excessivly worn?

If you want both discs/pads changed, probably looking at £100-200 with parts and labor at most places. Don't go to kwik fit, they fit cheapo rubbish... get OEM ones, or a decent third party brand.

If you're handy with a spanner, its not a hard job really, i'm just lazy :p

Parts are very very cheap (in my eyes) for these little cars.

Somewhere like EUROCARPARTS is a great place to buy parts.

Stick with PAGID discs and PAGID pads and you won't go wrong.

To give you an example, I just bought two new PAGID rear discs for £40, and pads for £20 (might have been less actually) from Eurocarparts, and fitted them myself in under 90mins.

The reason I say go for Pagid, is that they seem to work very well indeed. Lots of FEEL when braking (which is a good thing) and lots of Stopping power too.

I'm guessing Front pads and discs will be not a great deal more, as the 1.2 only has small discs

Definatly don't skimp on brake pads and parts, go for big names everytime.

my advice is to try and stick to well known brands where possible e.g ferodo, mintex, ebc ect ect, also all pads have diff charecteristics that suit certain driving styles for example ferodo are a relivly soft pad so wear fairly quickly but do give a good feel and good brake performance, ill see if i can find the brake specialist site i was on bout a year ago they give all sorts of advice

Original ATE are also a good make, i fitted a set of front discs and pads myself to my octy for £90 from Euro Car Parts.

Cheers for the info.

I've just had the front wheels off. Offside pad are just as thick as backing plate, same goes for pad on nearside. Offisde disc looks ok, shiny and only a very slight layer of rust. Near side disc has scratches towards the centre of the disc. There are a few black marks, I suppose, but nothing that stands out much.

Poor brake performance can be down to badly adjusted rear brakes. As these are shoes they hardly get looked at and are self adjusting (usually). However, all the dust gets mixed up with the grease on the little adjusting wedge and stops them from adjusting properly. The result is the shoes have to be pushed further by the cyclinder and this is what causes the poor performance and excessive pedal travel.

If the fronts seem OK and there has been a recent fluid change it is worth getting the rears looked at, cleaned and adjusted. I should not cost much to have this done.

Something you could try as well is. Engine off. In 1st gear. Handbrake OFF. Stand really hard on the brakes a few times. Sometimes this can encourage the adjusters on the rears to work.

HTH

...covered in scratches and chips in the door steps/boot, which is why the pads probably never had much attention paid to them...

Oi! I'm not going to be tarred with that brush - my car gets DRIVEN, not pampered - doesn't mean I scrimp on servicing! :lol:

They seem ok today, that is bearing in mind the comment about them being pants on the 1.2 anyway. I got up to about 30mph on the way out of my street this morning , went on the brakes hardish and the ABS cut in slightly, and it stopped fairly neatly.

Maybe your previous hard braking has set the rear shoes to the correct adjustment now. I think brakes need a bit of stress now and then to keep them in top shape

Maybe your previous hard braking has set the rear shoes to the correct adjustment now. I think brakes need a bit of stress now and then to keep them in top shape

I think unfortunately that is true, it could be that its down to us expecting to be provided with "strong" brakes while, if lucky never really needing to put them to work. I tend to be firm with the brakes on my wife's Polo once a month or when ever I get to drive it - so that keeps it feeling okay - my Passat though leads a lesurely life for 10 months of the year so its brakes probably drop off without me noticing, so I should really take my own advice and "work" them once a month or so - and try to remember to do the same thing with the AC!! (if the temperature rises high enough).

It's a fair point. Back when I was running fast road pads, I'd have to bed them in every couple of months as the motorway driving I generally do wasn't enough to keep the braking surfaces clear of cack. I'm back on OEM (albeit bigger) brakes, and the same still applies, just not so much...

Looks like I'll just have to wait until I can afford a vRS with some nice, decent sized brakes

Edited 9 February, 201016 yr by Gumby