This problem has just cropped up today, thankfully it's intermitent (for the time being).

Unlock the car as normal with the remote fob - put the key in ignitition, turn ignition to on position, waiting for the familar sequence of dash lights coming on/going off. beeping etc, and I get nothing SILENCE. It didn't immediately register and so I turned the key again to start the car and it just turned over without starting.

Much panicing and jumping in and out of the car ensued, my first thought was an immobiliser issue, so I locked and unlocked the car a few times then tried again - nothing, I then took the key out and put it back in a few more more times and eventually the dash light sequence fired up and Hey presto the car started.

I've now brought the car home and the same thing has happened again, and i've no idea what's causing it - there are no dash warning lights showing. I did have quite a heavy bang against a kerb on sunday so i'm wondering if something may have come loose? It's deffo not an issue with the key as I tried the spare (never used) key and the same thing has happened with that one.

Any ideas would be much appreciated, thanks.

Might be something as simple as one of the battery terminals has worked slighly loose. Worthwhile doing a quick check.

Might be something as simple as one of the battery terminals has worked slighly loose. Worthwhile doing a quick check.

Yes I agree, if it isn't a flat or a loose terminal, go for the main fuses, the large ones with 30amp on them.

Just had a cursory look, and can't see any problems at the battery end - where should I be looking after that? Problem appears to be getting worse - just had to put the key in the ignition and turn about 30 or 40 times before the dash light sequence kicked in.

Don't wish to doom this, but when that happened on my Fabia VRs Ltd, it needed a complete new dash................

Try switching your headlights on. Do they light up at full strength each and every time? I'm still thinking battery and/or earth connection.

Try switching your headlights on. Do they light up at full strength each and every time? I'm still thinking battery and/or earth connection.

Yep, no problem with the headlights, no flickering etc.

I'm becoming increasingly convinced that i've loosened something when I kerbed it heavily the other day.

Edited 22 February, 201016 yr by williebob

Just checked all the bigger fuses (or are thet relays?) behind the lower panel on the drivers side, they all seem pretty secure though I have noticed that you can feel a clicking sensation from inside the ones numbered 370,202 and 53 when you turn the ignition key.

I'm now gonna have a look at the battery end, but i'm not sure what to look out for beyond the red and black being secured firmly to the terminals - which they are - any tips?

Yes I agree, if it isn't a flat or a loose terminal, go for the main fuses, the large ones with 30amp on them.

I'm gonna check the fuses again, is there any particular 30amp fuse I should be looking for, or should I just replace them all? Also is it only the fuses on the main panel, as I have notced other fuses deeper into that compartment? Thanks.

I'm gonna check the fuses again, is there any particular 30amp fuse I should be looking for, or should I just replace them all? Also is it only the fuses on the main panel, as I have notced other fuses deeper into that compartment? Thanks.

It'll probably be the main engine fuse, I used 30 amp for example, but you may need different amps depending, these fuses are bigger than normal ones btw, and I'd also check the alarm and alternator ones, these will probably be normal size ones, use the manual for ref to identify, short of that how does the key barrel feel, is there still the kick back in it if you went for a normal start?

Going much past these ideas I think you will need pro help, as the whole shooting match has gone on vacation it could even be the ecu and it's shutdown the whole car.

Edited 23 February, 201016 yr by Supurbia

Right, i am going to recheck all the fuses again, but my gut instinct is that this isn't the issue - but I would love to be wrong. The intermittent fault now appears to be permenant - no way can I start it. What's happening now when I put the key in and turn the ignition "on" is that the radio, internal lights, headlights, side lights, horn, indicators and such like ALL WORK - but the dash light sequence indicating that the engine is ready to be started doesn't kick in, and resultantly if I turn the jkey to fire up the engine it'll just turn over without actually firing up! Barrel feels as normal btw.

If i'm looking at the ECU is that a main dealer job, and is a replacement "part" very expensive? Also is it possible that I have somehow dislodged or unseated the ECU when I kerbed the car the other day?

Thanks for the advice btw.

Edited 23 February, 201016 yr by williebob

It'll probably be the main engine fuse, I used 30 amp for example, but you may need different amps depending, these fuses are bigger than normal ones btw, and I'd also check the alarm and alternator ones, these will probably be normal size ones, use the manual for ref to identify, short of that how does the key barrel feel, is there still the kick back in it if you went for a normal start?

Going much past these ideas I think you will need pro help, as the whole shooting match has gone on vacation it could even be the ecu and it's shutdown the whole car.

I'm sorry but I'm lost as to why this probem could be down to a fuse,

A fuse is a crude over current protection device, it doesn't restrict flow of current just blows when there's too much, if you are saying that a different amp fuse is needed surely that would mean the original fuse would have blown and nothing would now be working at all now, also as cables and switches are rated to the fuse they are protected by you can't just change the rating of a fuse willy nilly, a 30amp fuse will be supplied by and supply cable that is rated at just over 30amps, (a car manufacturer or any electrical manufacturer will always match the cable to the fuse and not over-rate it because of the costs), if you replace this for a 40amp fuse say, you still have cable rated at 30amps, so instead of the fuse being the weakest link in the circuit the cable now is and your more likely that the cable or the switchgear with fail first.

I would not recommend changeing fuses for a different size at all, these fuses are worked out to protect just what they need to do and nothing more, as you would expect its a cost thing.

Edited 23 February, 201016 yr by bryanp

I'm sorry but I'm lost as to why this probem could be down to a fuse,

A fuse is a crude over current protection device, it doesn't restrict flow of current just blows when there's too much, if you are saying that a different amp fuse is needed surely that would mean the original fuse would have blown and nothing would now be working at all now, also as cables and switches are rated to the fuse they are protected by you can't just change the rating of a fuse willy nilly, a 30amp fuse will be supplied and supply by cable that is rated at just over 30amps, (a car manufacturer or any electrical manufacturer will always match the cable to the fuse and not over-rate it because of the costs), if you replace this for a 40amp fuse say, you still have cable rated at 30amps, so instead of the fuse being the weakest link in the circuit the cable now is and your more likely that the cable or the switchgear with fail first.

I would not recommend changeing fuses for a different size at all, these fuses are worked out to protect just what they need to do and nothing more, as you would expect its a cost thing.

I'm not saying it will be a fuse, I'm trying to give ideas to avoid £80 dealer charges before he takes it to them, I had a fuse go in an Omega, knocked out the whole instrumentation binacle, this would've cost me at VX had an auto leccy I know not told me straight off what to check, and with fuses they should never be amp value changed, just like for like, I originally thought of it because it's deffo an electric problem and if it's not a loose terminal a fuse would be the next best thing to check, personally I think it will be ingnition barrel trouble locking the car out.

Sounds like the ignition switch to me......

I'm not saying it will be a fuse, I'm trying to give ideas to avoid £80 dealer charges before he takes it to them, I had a fuse go in an Omega, knocked out the whole instrumentation binacle, this would've cost me at VX had an auto leccy I know not told me straight off what to check, and with fuses they should never be amp value changed, just like for like, I originally thought of it because it's deffo an electric problem and if it's not a loose terminal a fuse would be the next best thing to check, personally I think it will be ingnition barrel trouble locking the car out.

Fair enough mate but you did sudgest in your other reply changing the rating of the fuse and I was just replying to that not being a good idea.

Sounds like the ignition switch to me......

I'd go with this as well.

Sounds like the ignition switch to me......

Went to a local independant VW place today - explained the symptoms etc - and he suggested the very same thing. Got it booked in for tomorrow - fingers crossed.

Fair enough mate but you did sudgest in your other reply changing the rating of the fuse and I was just replying to that not being a good idea.

Nope I didn't, I suggested checking the fuses, nothing more nothing less, amps never came into it, I only mentioned 30amps because thats the normal size for the one I suggested, plus I didn't want him going through the small ones, as it is it looks like me and a couple of others are on the sniff for it blaming the ingnition barrel, lets hope it ain't too costly for the fella.

And lets face it, you offered no solution, all you could do was to ridicule my ideas and then alter what I actually said, find where I said change and up the amps on the fuse and I'll say sorry, I won't be made an idiot of when all I'm trying to do is help someone.

Edited 24 February, 201016 yr by Supurbia

Flippin' heck - don't fall out on my acount fellas. :wonder:

Flippin' heck - don't fall out on my acount fellas.

Flippin' heck - don't fall out on my acount fellas.

Thats me rolling in from the clubs last night, I tend to read wrong sometimes and get defensive, I'll leave the post up so he can have a giggle at at, but rest assured there's no falling out over it.

All sorted now - in fact I had the car back before 12.

It was indeed the ignition switch - looked like one of the terminals/connections had somehow burnt out. Cost £27 plus an hour's labour, which i can't complain about seeing as how a couple of weeks ago the same guy fitted me a brake-light/pedal switch for the cost of the part only (£15).

thanks again for the help and advice.

All sorted now - in fact I had the car back before 12.

It was indeed the ignition switch - looked like one of the terminals/connections had somehow burnt out. Cost £27 plus an hour's labour, which i can't complain about seeing as how a couple of weeks ago the same guy fitted me a brake-light/pedal switch for the cost of the part only (£15).

thanks again for the help and advice.

Delighted you've now got the matter resolved and without a huge bill.

Happy motoring!

Nope I didn't, I suggested checking the fuses, nothing more nothing less, amps never came into it, I only mentioned 30amps because thats the normal size for the one I suggested, plus I didn't want him going through the small ones, as it is it looks like me and a couple of others are on the sniff for it blaming the ingnition barrel, lets hope it ain't too costly for the fella.

And lets face it, you offered no solution, all you could do was to ridicule my ideas and then alter what I actually said, find where I said change and up the amps on the fuse and I'll say sorry, I won't be made an idiot of when all I'm trying to do is help someone.

Look Mate don't want to get in to a slagging match with you, but thats not how your reply read, you put "It'll probably be the main engine fuse, I used 30 amp for example, but you may need different amps depending", you words not mine, I have copied this straight from your reply, If you didnt mean change the size of the fuse I appologise but again thats not how your reply read and I was only replying to that, I wasn't trying to make you look an idiot but electrics can be a very confussing thing to people who don't know, I not saying you don't know but if someone not in the know read your reply wrong as you are implying I did they might do something that could cause allot of damage to their car. Again sorry for obviously upsetting you but there was no malice in my reply just myself trying to get my haed around what you was trying to advise.

Glad to read a good result