Hopefully I am posting this info in the correct place. If not please accept my appologises and let me know where it should be.

My daughters Fabia 1.9 TDi has had an intermitterent problem over the last few weeks with the battery light not illuminating when she turns the ignition on. I put a multimeter across the battery and sometimes it would register around the 14volt mark and sometimes just 12volts. Initially I took the alternator off the car and had an auto electrician test it on the bench where it worked perfectly. Back on the car it again appeared to work for a while but eventually the battery light wouldn't show up on the dash when the ignition was turned on.

To cut a lon story short, I came to the conclusion the regulator was duff so I ordered a new one and fitted it only to find the same problem. I took the car along to the auto electrician and he suggested it was possibly a wiring problem. I traced the loom from the alternator to a point just behind the radiator drain valve where the wiring splits and goes through a connector. Sure enough, both wires coming from the connector were broken. It looked like they had been rubbing against the outer sleeve which I think is there is protect them, but had been cut too short. To repair, I have stripped, twisted and soldered the wires back together and covered in tape to protect from moisture and guess what, the battery lights comes on everytime with the ignition and the battery is being charged with approx 14volts.

So, if you have a similar problem with the battery light not coming on, check the continuity of the wiring from the alternator. These are the two wires that come from the 2 pin connector on the alternator. To be fair, the Haynes manual does suggest this as a possible cause in its fault finding section, but I missed it first time round and wasted money on a regulator. You live and learn. Anyway, I hope someone finds this useful.

Flashheart

Yes well known problem, been documented on here a lot.

Yes , and I broke down because of it

Wont forget that ina hurry

always good for the heads up

Sarah

Sorry for the bump..

But before I go splash out on some Axle stands this evening.. can someone please confirm this connection requires access from underneath the car/engine for repair?

And also, is electricians tape really ok to cover the connection? Would a butt connector not be as good?

Many thanks

Rob.

Hopefully I am posting this info in the correct place. If not please accept my appologises and let me know where it should be.

My daughters Fabia 1.9 TDi has had an intermitterent problem over the last few weeks with the battery light not illuminating when she turns the ignition on. I put a multimeter across the battery and sometimes it would register around the 14volt mark and sometimes just 12volts. Initially I took the alternator off the car and had an auto electrician test it on the bench where it worked perfectly. Back on the car it again appeared to work for a while but eventually the battery light wouldn't show up on the dash when the ignition was turned on.

To cut a lon story short, I came to the conclusion the regulator was duff so I ordered a new one and fitted it only to find the same problem. I took the car along to the auto electrician and he suggested it was possibly a wiring problem. I traced the loom from the alternator to a point just behind the radiator drain valve where the wiring splits and goes through a connector. Sure enough, both wires coming from the connector were broken. It looked like they had been rubbing against the outer sleeve which I think is there is protect them, but had been cut too short. To repair, I have stripped, twisted and soldered the wires back together and covered in tape to protect from moisture and guess what, the battery lights comes on everytime with the ignition and the battery is being charged with approx 14volts.

So, if you have a similar problem with the battery light not coming on, check the continuity of the wiring from the alternator. These are the two wires that come from the 2 pin connector on the alternator. To be fair, the Haynes manual does suggest this as a possible cause in its fault finding section, but I missed it first time round and wasted money on a regulator. You live and learn. Anyway, I hope someone finds this useful.

Flashheart

Thanks, it's always good when someone takes the trouble to show they traced and solved a problem.

Sorry for the bump..

But before I go splash out on some Axle stands this evening.. can someone please confirm this connection requires access from underneath the car/engine for repair?

And also, is electricians tape really ok to cover the connection? Would a butt connector not be as good?

Many thanks

Rob.

No!

It unwinds itself especially in a warm engine compartment. It might take months to do it ,then it will let you down !. I would use two layers of heatshrink ,after winding the wires together (put the heatshink on the wire first) and soldering the wire together. The heatshrink can be shrunk with a soldering iron ,and will add mechanical support for the wires being joined . I would not use butt connectors ,because they are open to water on both ends ,and you are never sure if you have applied enough pressure to the crimp ,as the crimps cannot be seen close enough , buried down the front of the engine .

Edited 11 June, 201016 yr by AndyPandy