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Octavia tdi wll not start

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Bought this car as a non runner, Bought a battery, new glow plugs, checked engine and fuel pump timing, new air filter and engine stop solenoid. Engine spins well and tries to fire,have diesel smoke slowly coming out of exhaust, Also changed relay 109 and glow plug relay. Still won't start. Am getting no power to the glow plugs and have a flashing glow plug light on dash. Has anyone any suggestions??? Or should I just torch it? Also plugged in a fault code reader and it has no codes stored. Please advise as I'm rapidly going off this car!

This rather in the wrong place - post it in the Octavia 1 forum or get a mod to move it.

By stop solenoid do you mean the one in the fuel pump or the antishudder valve - assuming this is an injection pump rather than a PD engine. There is also a valve in the fuel pump which can come apart and cause problems.

It should start even without the glow plugs on. Have you tried unplugging the coolant temp sensor to force the glow plugs to come on?

Flashing glow plug light means electrical problem. Do the brake lights all work?

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Hi Trundlenut, Thanks for the prompt reply, I have tried all the lights including brake lights as I had read this to be a cause of the flashing glow plug light. However I have found that the drivers door will not unlock off the key remote and the red LED will not work at all unless I disconnect the battery and reconnect it. Not sure if this could be linked.

I have tried disconnecting the coolant temp sensor but that made no difference. It is an injection pump, I think it was the antishudder valve that I investgated, I removed the inner plunger and tried to start it, still didn't work!

Regarding the other valve you mentioned, is it inside the injector pump?

P.S will try and post in octavia 1. Cheers!

The solenoid thingy is inside the injection pump and it is operated by the immobiliser and basically shuts off the fuel supply. I think it is fairly obvious where it is beacuse there is a wire going to it. There is also the pressure relief??? valve in the pump too, it is on the top left hand corner of the pump (looking from the front of the car) and you can unscrew it and you can find that the middle has sort of popped out, so you you need to push it back together and screw it back in. On my car there is a blob of yellow paint on the top of the thing.

mind you if the there appears to be diesel coming out the exhaust it suggest fuel is getting into the cylinders, is the compression OK?

The drivers door problem may well be caused by water ingress into the door or the wiring connector, this is a fairly common problem and there are plenty of threads about it, just try searching.

It may also be worth finding someone with vagcom and seeing if that finds any error codes, I think some basic OBD code readers can miss codes.

Bought this car as a non runner

Did the seller give any clues as to why it was a non-runner?

Have you changed the batteries in the ignition keys?

Have you changed the batteries in the ignition keys?

Don't the batteries just provide the remote unlock/lock feature?

  • 1 year later...

Bought this car as a non runner, Bought a battery, new glow plugs, checked engine and fuel pump timing, new air filter and engine stop solenoid. Engine spins well and tries to fire,have diesel smoke slowly coming out of exhaust, Also changed relay 109 and glow plug relay. Still won't start. Am getting no power to the glow plugs and have a flashing glow plug light on dash. Has anyone any suggestions??? Or should I just torch it? Also plugged in a fault code reader and it has no codes stored. Please advise as I'm rapidly going off this car!

what the problem was? mine worked fine untill today and now it won't start, the fuel is going in and out ofthe pump but no pressure at the injectors...

If there are no bubbles in the feed pipe to the pump and the fuel is moving and getting upto the injectors then maybe the heater plugs are not working or the timing has slipped and bent valves. (also the key code light must go off on the dash).

Loosen injector 3 union nut, wrap a rag around and try to start the engine. Do you get any diesel leaking out onto the rag?

Injector 3 has a needle lift sensor. Check its resistance is between 85 Ohms and 125 Ohms.

When you crank the engine, does the dash show an RPM?

If you spray Bradex Easy Start into the air intake downstream of the MAF, does the engine start to run?

It's not the immobilizer. If it was an immo problem the car would start, run for 3 seconds and then stop.

Loosen injector 3 union nut, wrap a rag around and try to start the engine. Do you get any diesel leaking out onto the rag?

Injector 3 has a needle lift sensor. Check its resistance is between 85 Ohms and 125 Ohms.

When you crank the engine, does the dash show an RPM?

If you spray Bradex Easy Start into the air intake downstream of the MAF, does the engine start to run?

It's not the immobilizer. If it was an immo problem the car would start, run for 3 seconds and then stop.

Ok i've try the fuel temp sensor, the 3'rd injector, the incandescent plugs and i was going mad.... IT WAS THE 109 RELAY :) TKS GUYS FOR EVERYTHING

by the way the russian site volkswagen technial site has the diagnose guide in english.

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