I am about to have the cam belt changed on my '06 2.5 V6 after 72K miles, can anyone remind me of the other things that are worth doing at the same time in order to save additional labour charges at a later date or to ensure the old dear doesn't let me down at some point? (She never has so far...touch wood!)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Diesel or petrol?

I've just done this job on my 4 cyl PD.

Make sure the full kit is used which includes the tensioner and roller(s) and change the water pump at the same time. Change all the auxiliary drive belts, check the auto tensioner and very seriously consider changing the alternator pulley - which (on the PDs) has a one-way clutch in it.

Pulling the front out on the Superb is easy enough, but stupidly time consuming. Because of this, it makes sense to do all of the above whilst you're at it, although the alternator can be done in-situ. Apply de-rusting wax (I use Dinitrol) to all the rusty bits you will find when the front is pulled.

If you fit the Contitech kit, you get identical parts to the OE - Continental belt, Litens tensioner and INA roller (4 cyl). You can buy the kit for less money than VAG charge trade. The OE water pump has a plastic impeller - fit a pattern replacement with a metal impeller from GSF or ECP. On the PD engines, all the work is straightforward.

rotodiesel.

Edited 31 March, 201016 yr by rotodiesel

Diesel or petrol?

I've just done this job on my 4 cyl PD.

Make sure the full kit is used which includes the tensioner and roller(s) and change the water pump at the same time. Change all the auxiliary drive belts, check the auto tensioner and very seriously consider changing the alternator pulley - which (on the PDs) has a one-way clutch in it.

Pulling the front out on the Superb is easy enough, but stupidly time consuming. Because of this, it makes sense to do all of the above whilst you're at it, although the alternator can be done in-situ. Apply de-rusting wax (I use Dinitrol) to all the rusty bits you will find when the front is pulled.

If you fit the Contitech kit, you get identical parts to the OE - Continental belt, Litens tensioner and INA roller (4 cyl). You can buy the kit for less money than VAG charge trade. The OE water pump has a plastic impeller - fit a pattern replacement with a metal impeller from GSF or ECP. On the PD engines, all the work is straightforward.

rotodiesel.

Diesel or petrol?

I've just done this job on my 4 cyl PD.

Make sure the full kit is used which includes the tensioner and roller(s) and change the water pump at the same time. Change all the auxiliary drive belts, check the auto tensioner and very seriously consider changing the alternator pulley - which (on the PDs) has a one-way clutch in it.

Pulling the front out on the Superb is easy enough, but stupidly time consuming. Because of this, it makes sense to do all of the above whilst you're at it, although the alternator can be done in-situ. Apply de-rusting wax (I use Dinitrol) to all the rusty bits you will find when the front is pulled.

If you fit the Contitech kit, you get identical parts to the OE - Continental belt, Litens tensioner and INA roller (4 cyl). You can buy the kit for less money than VAG charge trade. The OE water pump has a plastic impeller - fit a pattern replacement with a metal impeller from GSF or ECP. On the PD engines, all the work is straightforward.

rotodiesel.

Thanks, thats really helpful.

Mine is a 2.5 V6 diesel, does that alter things much?

Yes. a lot.

Unlike the PD, the V6 uses an old VP44 rotary pump which is driven using a second toothed belt. The engine speed/timing signal is thus derived from the pump rather than the crank as on the PD, which has a transducer just in front of the flywheel. The crank-derived speed signal is the best possible arrangement as it avoids engine torsionals modulating the signal and giving poor governing.

So, the V6 has 2 belts and more idlers, but the real problem is that after belt replacement, the injection timing has to be reset - which is a horrible iterative job. If the static pump timing is not within the limits which the dynamic adjustment system of the VP44 can deal with, it will run like a dog.

It's a time consuming job on the V6 which I would not willingly attempt (although I like a challenge) and will be expensive. Make absolutely sure you get someone whom you trust to do a good job and who is careful, knowledgeable and painstaking. This generally rules out dealers - find a good self-employed VAG specialist. Best of luck - this engine is a sod to work on.

rotodiesel.