My VRS coolant leak has got slightly worse. I need to refill it at once a week, say by the amount from the min to max marker.

My trusted garage have done several tests and there are no leaks from the coolant system. They said it was unlikely to be a head gasket problem as there are no other warning signs (but its something to keep in mind).

However there is often a dried pinkish scum around the top of the coolant bottle so it must be coming out of the top of the bottle, either out of the cap or out of the top overflow hole (the one with the flap over it)

Is it possible that the engine is getting so hot that the coolant is boiling out through the overflow or the cap? I'm going to try and put some paper towels there to indicate whether it really it coming out of the top.

It definitely gets worse when i'm driving the car harder. My commute is a fast 50 mile motorway blast.

I bought a new coolant bottle cap today, so i'll keep and eye on it this week

If that doesn't solve it then i'll change to coolant bottle

If that doesn't solve it then i'll get the head gasket changed

Any other ideas?

Thanks

just changed my radiator today got a nasty surprise the temperature sender wires had corroded so badley only 1 wire out of three were making contact surprisingly the temparture quage still worked might be a guess but check those wires as you could be overheating and not realise

My VRS coolant leak has got slightly worse. I need to refill it at once a week, say by the amount from the min to max marker....

This is exactly what happened to me, although by the time the problem was eventually fixed i was having to top it up one a day in the end. It took my local dealers 3 attempts to fix it, eventually with me and my dad spending a few minutes literally checking everything and pointing out the leak to skoda. I had a huge split down one of the pipes. I can send you picture of where mine was if you wanted but obviously the coolant system is pretty big so the leak could be anywhere.

PM me if you want it.

just changed my radiator today got a nasty surprise the temperature sender wires had corroded so badley only 1 wire out of three were making contact surprisingly the temparture quage still worked might be a guess but check those wires as you could be overheating and not realise

The temperature guage seems to be working ok and its never gone above half.

Where do I find the tempearture sender wires? Are they accessible without removing other bits?

I now know where its leaking from!

Coolant is coming out of the overflow hole and flap and the top of the coolant bottle. Why would this happen? Is my engine overheating despite the temerature guage never rising above half?

Should the pressure build up in the coolant system so that when I undo the cap theres a big release of pressure and coolant shoots back into the bottle from the pipes?

I left some kitchen roll around the coolant bottle this morning and drove the 50 miles on the motorway to work. checked the paper towel and it was almost dry. Drove home 50 miles at a faster pace and the kitchen roll was soaked through with pink coolant. Both times the coolant level warning indicator came on.

If I can get this sorted then my VRS is perfect.

Have a garage do an exhaust sniffer test inside the coolant expansion tank after a hard run. If it detects combustion gas, suspect cylinder head gasket, or cracked head, between valve seat and water way.

If the test is negative, I would suspect a partial blockage in the coolant system or a broken water pump impeller. Make sure no other anti freeze has been used with G12 as it doesn't mix with other types of anti freeze.

Sniffer test done by NG motors in Cardiff and apparently checked out ok. They suggested to keep an eye on how and when it leaks over the next week before taking it back. Coolant is being pushed out of the very top of the bottle and not leaking out of or into anywhere else. Only G12++ used.

List of possibilities:

1. coolant expansion bottle leak at the central seam

2. partial blockage in the coolant system

3. broken water pump impeller

4. thermostat / temperature sender is broken

5. head gasket failure

Any more anyone?

Done a search and found the following comments:

"The common failure is exhaust gases pressurising the cooling system. This prevents correct circulation of coolant and will either make the bottom hose remain stone cold or barely warm. It will also cause coolant to leak off via the expansion vessle"

"If the system is getting pressurised by say a head gasket starting to fail, possible I suppose due to the propane injection spiking the pressures a little higher (?), this could cause the cooling system to be overpressurised, in turn causing the fluid to be expelled by the reservoir overflow system"

"Regarding leaks - the system won't leak unless it overpressurises in which case there is a release on the reservoir where the excess is blasted out. As a result overall you can end up loosing coolant"

" If you run the engine with the coolant reservoir lid off you should be able to see bubbles in the coolant if the head gasket has gone"

"Diagnosis for headgasket failure, assuming you cannot find the waterleak anywhere else in the water circuit - I changed a radiator before I finally conceded it was the HG. I can suggest four tests:

1. Take the car for an 'intense' spin, full rev range and stress the engine as much as possible, if there is a head gasket leak you will notice the engine temp rising slowly...back off before it goes to high and it will return to 90. You may also lose a bit of power as it rises (I did).

2. When driving on a motorway, does the warning light come on when you slow down and then go back off again if you pick the revs back up....ie slowing for a 50mph roadworks area and then going back up to 75-80? If so think headgasket - its to do with the exhaust system pressurising the water circuit and making the level rise. Less exhaust pressure = lower level = warning light (assuming the level wasnt too low in the first instance)

3. Is your system pressurised even when cold (in the morning), find out by removing the header tank cap and listen for the hiss of air....it shouldnt be.

4. Is your top hose hard as rock when the car is running/after it has been running? This should not be the case...it should be fairly squidgy...think tube of toothpaste rather than unripe banana!! Unripe banana = HG"

My answers are

1. rises to 90 and stays there, never risen above

2. warning light comes and an stays on.

3. yes

4. one to check

I know you have changed the header tank cap, but try a complete new expansion tank. Not expensive, and I think it may well fix your problem.

I know you have changed the header tank cap, but try a complete new expansion tank. Not expensive, and I think it may well fix your problem.

That's next on the list, i'll be booking it in for early next week.

The comment about exhaust gases pressurising the coolant system and forcing coolant out of the overflow hole at the top of the bottle sounds too much like what's going on in my car. Especially as it releases pressure even after standing still all night.

Edited 14 April, 201016 yr by iamrcb

That's next on the list, i'll be booking it in for early next week.

Don't book it in mate, it will take you about 10 mins to change that, if your remotely handy with a screwdriver, I work near NG, I'll do it for you in Lidls car park if you like lol

Don't book it in mate, it will take you about 10 mins to change that, if your remotely handy with a screwdriver, I work near NG, I'll do it for you in Lidls car park if you like lol

Its in for an MOT there anyway.

Its in for an MOT there anyway.

Ah cool best leave it too them then, I've heard they are pretty good in there.

Refilled the coolant this morning to the max level and put a new bit of kitchen roll near the coolant bottle overflow hole. Drove 50 miles to work at a sensible speed and there was only a small spot of pink water on the paper.

Took the cap off, hiss and some steam. Hardly any smell in the bottle, certainly not exhaust fumes. When I took the cap off the liquid level was another inch over the max level, but not up as high was the overflow level.

When I had the cap off I restarted the engine, coolant water was pumping back into the bottle slowly in spurts, from the top hose (furthest from the front)

I'll drive home at the same speed today and will recheck the level and paper when I stop.

So if it only leaks when driven hard what is causing it to come out of the overflow hole?

If you are very unlucky a cracked head or block, although I would expect to see some oil scum in the water and or mayo in the oil.

My money is on the water pump impeller has lost a blade(s) and bits of plastic are restricting the coolant flow.

I take it the thermostat has been changed to rule out being stuck shut?

Edited 15 April, 201016 yr by MoggyTech

After my 50 mile drive home at 65mph I checked the kitchen paper and it was dry, so no leak during that journey. I'll try another slow run into work tomorrow, then a quick one home to check the leak situation.

So far the list of causes and the order of repair is:

1. replace coolant bottle

2. check and replace thermostat

3. check and replace waterpump

4. head gasket failure

Edited 15 April, 201016 yr by iamrcb

final test. drove home quicker and a fair bit of coolant had come out from the top of the coolant bottle.

so it only leaks when driven hard

lets see what the garage says next tuesday

Car was in the garage today for an MOT. I also had the coolant bottle changed, just in case. Unfortunately its stil leaked on the way home.

Here's what I've noticed:

• Leaks out of the top of the coolant bottle through the overflow hole
  
• Barely leaks when driven under 65mph
  
• Will definitely leak when driven hard (70+)
  
• Head gasket checked, all ok
  
• Thermostat appears to be working ok
  
• Water pump is working well
  
• No sign of oil or fumes in the coolant bottle
  
• Coolant system pressure tested, checks out ok
  
• Fair release of pressure when I take off the bottle cap
  

So now I have no idea what to do! Please help!

Edited 20 April, 201016 yr by iamrcb

The over flow pipe is the skinny one on assuming it's the same as an Octy. Can anyone confirm this ???

If so it's jubille clipped on and leaking out of there ???

Am I in the right ball park ??

The only way forward now is to rig up coolant and oil temperature monitors and see how much temp increase there is between driving at 65 then 75 MPH. Unfortunately very few garages have the kit to do this. I still think there is a partial blockage in the coolant system somewhere. Only way to be sure the water pump hasn't lost a blade or two, is to strip it out.

This is really bothering me now and could result in some big bills.

Did a test run today:

1) drove 60ish for 20 miles, checked paper towel near top of coolant bottle, had a very small spot of pinkish hot water on it

2) drove hard 80+ for 1 mile, checked paper towel and it was soaked through, replaced paper towel

3) drove another 10 miles at 60ish, checked paper towel again and it was dry

Each time when I release the cap there's a loud hiss and water shoots back into the bottle from the incoming pipes

Water is coming out of the top of the bottle only. It seems to be getting pressurised out of the top overlfow hole (not a pipe) under the plastic flap down the side.

Could there be a head gasket problem that is only "active" when under heavy engine load?

Booked in the garage again next Tuesday. If a sniffer test confirms no exhaust fumes in the bottle after a heavy run then it remains a complete mystery.

I really don't want to be paying for thermostat, water pump, head gasket work if the source of the problem is unknown.

How much for the following works?

1) replace thermostat £?

2) replace water pump £?

3) head gasket £500?

Edited 22 April, 201016 yr by iamrcb

my fabia vrs did this, it bugged me so much i sold the car...

i replaced waterpump

expansion tank, cap and a bit of pipe

Skoda couldnt find anything so i cut my loses as it was bugging me mad

I have exactly the same problem on my 2006 Fabia VRS and i have read everything i can about this problem which seems to afflict a vast number of VRS owners and no one knows what to do to solve it other than selling the car, not even Skoda themselves. We have replaced all the usual parts to no avail.

I assume it is a head gasket problem that only happens when it is under high load and compression. The illogical bit is that no one mentions any combustion gasses in the sniff test which is always puzzling. I will be checking the head bolts at the weekend, does any one know what the torque/ tightening sequence is? I am toying with the idea of changing each bolt individually too to ensure it is torqued to exactly the right limit.

This is a small but serious problem that is ruining an otherwise great car.

Edited 11 January, 201115 yr by glassdoc

I have exactly the same problem on my 2006 Fabia VRS and i have read everything i can about this problem which seems to afflict a vast number of VRS owners and no one knows what to do to solve it other than selling the car, not even Skoda themselves. We have replaced all the usual parts to no avail.

I assume it is a head gasket problem that only happens when it is under high load and compression. The illogical bit is that no one mentions any combustion gasses in the sniff test which is always puzzling. I will be checking the head bolts at the weekend, does any one know what the torque/ tightening sequence is? I am toying with the idea of changing each bolt individually too to ensure it is torqued to exactly the right limit.

This is a small but serious problem that is ruining an otherwise great car.

Here are some answers from my experience:

Head gasket problem. Gases leaking into the coolant bottle only under high load, so previous tests during idling did not find problems as the pressure is not there to push gases out of the tiny gap that had formed.

Fault found when the engine was pressure tested. The head was skimmed and replacement head gasket fitted. £700, ouch but has been perfect since, pulling like a hatchback train again and running as good as ever.

Here are some answers from my experience:

Head gasket problem. Gases leaking into the coolant bottle only under high load, so previous tests during idling did not find problems as the pressure is not there to push gases out of the tiny gap that had formed.

Fault found when the engine was pressure tested. The head was skimmed and replacement head gasket fitted. £700, ouch but has been perfect since, pulling like a hatchback train again and running as good as ever.

thanks for that iamrcb

i have some head stretch bolts on order now and will try that first

thanks for that iamrcb

i have some head stretch bolts on order now and will try that first

I was messing around with the cheaper options but it was the biggie that solved it once and for all