Clive spoke with Nick @ R-Tech on Friday.

He said that the car is running a safe map as there might be a problem with a knock sensor?

The map should be requesting 1.3 bar and it isn't.

I'm going to be taking my car there for a tweak once the decat is fitted so he's gonna sort it for me while I'm there

I think the reason I/we thought there was a boost problem was because of the length of hose we used to hook up the gauge (3m )

Edited 24 April, 201016 yr by Bertee

Cool. were you at Combe today? I saw Clives car and a couple of other VRS's with him on the VagOwners stand

No mate, I was going to but with SWMBO taking her driving test today I thought it best not too lol

it was me in the yellow one andyrew in the white one and the other 2 where other members but dont no there names lol

there is no sign of a boost leak on that log. as well as that the block 32 2nd value would be > -10 with a boost leak. HTH

there is no sign of a boost leak on that log. as well as that the block 32 2nd value would be > -10 with a boost leak. HTH

wish I had been able to come to Combe :'(

I cannot see anything wrong with anything on those graphs, 1.1 bar is nice and safe. There will be delay in requested boost and actual boost as it tries to catch up. Can you log the timing pull and put up the log.

we know what the problem is.

the car has a fault with possible the knock sensor and the map has reverted to a safe map as they call it

so will run like this

it should be requesting peak 2300 and holding 2000 to the redline

all going to be sorted when we go back to r-tech to find the engine fault. :thumbup:

how do they manage to get it requesting 1bar as a safe map? I thought it would drop back to limp mode or wastegate pressure?

edit: someone moved my keys around?

Edited 26 April, 201016 yr by karlbar2k

something to do with the mapping r-tech use

nick is a clever fecker and knows his stuff he did try to explain but shot straight above my head lol

ooh err missus that really sounded a bit naughty there clive :p

Edited 26 April, 201016 yr by karlbar2k

Having read a bit of the service manual about the knock sensors I had a thought about the 020 log I did...

Thursday	22	April	2010	22:18:19	
06A 906 032 HN		1.8L R4/5VT         0002			

Group A:	'020			
	Idle Stabilization	Idle Stabilization	Idle Stabilization	Idle Stabilization
TIME				
Marker	STAMP	 CF	 CF	 CF	 CF
345.25	0	0	0	3
345.65	0	3	0	3
346.05	0	3	0	3
346.45	0	3	0	3
346.87	0	3	0	3
347.37	0	2.3	0	2.3
347.77	0	2.3	0	2.3
348.17	0	2.3	0	2.3
348.58	0	2.3	0	2.3

398.77	0	0	0	3
399.16	0	0	0	3
399.56	0	0	0	3
399.97	0	0	0	3
400.36	0	0	0	3
400.76	0	0	0	2.3
401.16	0	0	0	2.3
401.58	0	0	0	2.3
401.98	0	0	0	2.3
402.4	0	0	0	2.3

This is 2 parts of the 020 log. It was all 0's apart from these but it doesn't look good to me.

What is the correctional factor? why does it do it? do sausages walk round the fridge at night kicking the mushrooms about?

Any help much appreciated :|

Edited 5 May, 201016 yr by Bertee

would it be possible I am having slight misfires on 2 cylinders (2 & 4)?

...

Edited 5 May, 201016 yr by Bertee

all that is showing is a little bit of timing pull. it is safe up to about 10 and regular 12's is bad. Timing is just one of the things that can be adjusted on a Map and some tuners go too far with it and others dont touch it and get similar results.

I have also just logged 026 and have a couple of instances where the voltage goes over 20.

Is this OK or should it always be under 20 as I have read elsewhere?

Hard to find info when you need it.

missfires are available on one or two of the blocks just cant remember off the top of my head which ones, you should feel a missfire though. Have you changed your plugs after getting remap? It is advised to change to either Iridiums or the favourite seems to be to go for the NGK BKR7E's which are a bog standard copper core plug which is one step colder (helps to dissipate the extra heat from increased boost in the cylinders) and gapped down to .028 I was logging a missfire on cylinder 2 and bought some new plugs ready for service time but when I checked the plug was in good condition just the gap was at .031 to tapped it down and no more missfire

is it 14 or 15 for misfires?

I haven't changed the plugs but I can try that next, thanks for the advice.

I've plotted the boost log as a graph but work computer won't let me post it on Photobucket so will try and put it up tonight.

It looks like it is calling for 1 bar at 2200 revs but then the requested boost dips down to 0.9 bar at about 3000 revs. The Actual boost starts quite low at only just over 0.6 bar at 2200 but does take a while to pick up, it is peaking at 1.1 bar at about 3000 revs but for the first 500 revs or so it takes a while for it to catch up with the requested boost.

So basically it calls for 1 bar at 2200 revs but it doesn't get it until 3000 revs.

I'd check the vaccuum hose between the N75 valve and the wastegate actuator on the turbo is not loose or deteriorated. Then maybe check the N75 by replacing it with a known working one

Just thought I would give this a quick update.

After removing all the crap from my bay which wasn't needed and checking everything else I ended up swapping the N75 with Clive's one and away we went, sorted.

Seems like a lot of effort for something so simple but maybe this will help someone else who has similar logs

Glad you got it sorted

Did you stick a standard one on it or did Clive have the J or the H?

Edited 21 May, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

I stuck a standard F one on.

I am gonna have to get one next week but I will probably just get the standard one again, I don't think it will benefit me changing?

Stick with the standard one if it's ok - I guess this just goes to prove that you don't have to run the N75J or H if you've got a remap.

Or change your spark plugs

Very intresting read , i have a similar problem to what youve been saying . Looks like im going to change my N75 valve now . anyone got one spare ?

I've got 2 but you don't want them