For Rob etc. who have done this

If you are bypassing the N249 do you need to do anything to the breather system as well?

I'm assuming you just use the vacuum feed from the inlet mani to actuate the DV and then blank off any other pipes going to the N249 and thats it

Reason I ask is I'm going to have a go at doing it on a mates car next week (Rob this is Simon and I think he has been in touch with you about it? )

only pipe you need to blank off is the one that runs down by the tip pipe. i just cut it bk a bit so it was out of site

will you be removing the SAI? its easier to remove the metal breather pipes if so, then just run a vac pipe straight from inlet to DV

HTH

Edited 11 June, 201016 yr by sivrs

Yeah we might rip the SAI out as well, if we can find something to seal the whole in the side of the airbox

And need to get the Forge blanking plate too

Edited 12 June, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

Right sort of worked this out now, what we're going to do. The only question I still have is do we need to put a resistor in the multiplug for the N249 valve or can we just leave it? If we do put a resistor in what size resistor does it need to be? The N249 is broken (which is the reason for doing this) so I'm thinking if we put a resistor in the multiplug the ECU will see it as a working N249 and the fault code can be cleared.

Right sort of worked this out now, what we're going to do. The only question I still have is do we need to put a resistor in the multiplug for the N249 valve or can we just leave it? If we do put a resistor in what size resistor does it need to be? The N249 is broken (which is the reason for doing this) so I'm thinking if we put a resistor in the multiplug the ECU will see it as a working N249 and the fault code can be cleared.

i think i read on a seat forum its a 10w you need doh sivrs beat me to it just looked on the seat site and its a 330 ohm one you need

Edited 14 June, 201016 yr by borris

Right sort of worked this out now, what we're going to do. The only question I still have is do we need to put a resistor in the multiplug for the N249 valve or can we just leave it? If we do put a resistor in what size resistor does it need to be? The N249 is broken (which is the reason for doing this) so I'm thinking if we put a resistor in the multiplug the ECU will see it as a working N249 and the fault code can be cleared.

no resistor required if your just by passing it just plug it back in. a resistor is only needed if removing altogether. you will require one for the SAI if your removing it. i used these on mine and oggy's http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/330-OHM-50-WATT-WIREWOUND-ALCLAD-RESISTOR-/360003040914?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item53d1da7692

HTH

Thanks guys

We are bypassing it not removing it but if we leave it plugged in the ECU will still have the fault code showing it's broken. So might get the resistor just so we can clear that

This thread might help you when I did mine took lots of pics.

If you remove the SAI as well you will not need to blank off any pipes, just route DV pipe to manifold as shown in pics.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/155472-sai-n249-and-n112-removal/page__pid__1985416__st__0entry1985416

I did the mod some other way, having read the info from my local Passat-B5 forum. No pipes were blanked off, N249 remains on its plate for ECU not to throw errors (I think 300 Ohm resistor in the harness would be okay).

If anyone's interested I'll post some more pics.

here's how it looks after the procedure.

Edited 15 June, 201016 yr by DriVE654

I did the mod some other way, having read the info from my local Passat-B5 forum. No pipes were blanked off, N249 remains on its plate for ECU not to throw errors (I think 300 Ohm resistor in the harness would be okay).

If anyone's interested I'll post some more pics.

here's how it looks after the procedure.

Yep can been done that way , a lot of folks if doing the mod like to remove all that stuff and unclutter the engine bay. Makes oil changes ok from the top of the engine (get to oil filter now).

But as folks said leaving the kit connected to sensors may stop cell lights, coz you will defo get one without, even with the 330ohm resistors.

I still get the EGR temp cell with those resistors connetced. And apparently REVO can not map that cell out.

Edited 15 June, 201016 yr by Bowders1

This is one of the reasons I went with Shark Performance.....

They can remove the N112, SAI, N249 etc from the map. At £25 a tweak, I'll be seeing him again soon once I've ripped all that lot out.

I still can't decide if I want the N249 or not yet....

Easy oil filter access must be lovely now Bowders! I look forward to it!

I've left all mine connected, except the SAI which was removed and replaced with a resistor.

I have had 1 incorrect flow CEL so far but it is only a 2 minute job to reset.

I'll get it taken out when I go for some tweaking

Well we had a crack at this last night and after a lot of swearing and trying to get those single use clips off with pliers we eventually managed to do the job.

The t-piece that the thin vacuum tube from the manifold goes into has now got the DV vac line going into one side of it. The other side of it has a long length of hose running down to the N112 valve, with the non-return valve out of the old N249 pipework fitted into it.

We removed the Vac reservoir too but left the other pipes under the plate in front of the manifold in place. As the N249 wasn't working we soldered a 330ohm 10w resistor in place of the multiplug.

Car drives very well now, no hesitation and no juddering when backing off the throttle. The only issue is there is a 16795 code (secondary air system incorrect flow detected) so not sure what the deal is there...? Maybe we put the non-return valve on the wrong way round?

Edited 17 June, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

Thats the error you will get after a certain amount of starts.

You can have it mapped out though