I had a bit of a geek-out tonight! Went off for a drive to enjoy the new remap, and thought I'd get some data off the VI Monitor while I was at it. Total logging time was 40mins (shown in seconds on the graph). Most of the data was pretty obvious, but I thought the inlet manifold air temperature log was the most interesting. Sat at about 25 degrees while cruising, then peaked at 53 degrees when giving it some hard boost. Do these values tally up with others running the standard SMIC? What temps do people with a FMIC see?

I really like this remap! Very smooth power delivery. Seems to peak out at about 18-19psi, but I haven't really been watching the boost gauge yet.

Well mine (standard map) runs at about 20 degrees if I'm just driving normally, and goes up to around 40 degrees if I hammer it several times. oddly enough it was showing 43 degrees the other day when I was on my way back from work in hot weather (26 degrees outside temp) but the car felt really stupidly quick and the torque was peaking at 180 ft/lb :S

We took my mates one out in the winter after he had a generic remap and the inlet air temps were peaking at over 40 degrees, but then the outside air temp was only a couple of degrees above zero. He was losing massive amounts of power and torque on successive runs and has just fitted a FMIC to sort this

You can see on the graph you must have hammered it about 8 times LOL

Edited 12 June, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

Highest intake temp I've seen on my liquid gauge since fitting the pro alloy fmic is 28 degrees.

But I've noticed something very odd with the AIT sensor in my car...... ie; my cars AIT temps go quite high when the throttle is closed on overrun etc or on idle at traffic lights etc.

My guess is the AIT sensor is suffering heat soak from the inlet manifold.

I know you can get an uprated gasket to reduce heat soak but I'd prefer to leave it as it is as I think under certain conditions some heat soak into the inlet manifold is a good thing as it tends to help cool the cylinder head.

So I have been thinking about adapting a spare boost pressure sensor adapter I have and try moving the AIT sensor from the inlet manifold to the boost pipe up stream of the throttle body so the AIT sensor only records charge air temp and not inlet manifold temp.

Bill.

An intake air temp sensor in the boost pipework between the intercooler and throttle would certainly give cooler readings. I guess the readings go "extra hot" in the manifold when the throttle is closed because there's no more cooled air coming in from the intercooler and all you've got is the air inside the manifold getting superheated.

That 28 degrees is a cracking reading, it sounds like your FMIC is really doing the trick considering it would be around 40 degrees with the SMIC

An intake air temp sensor in the boost pipework between the intercooler and throttle would certainly give cooler readings. I guess the readings go "extra hot" in the manifold when the throttle is closed because there's no more cooled air coming in from the intercooler and all you've got is the air inside the manifold getting superheated.

That 28 degrees is a cracking reading, it sounds like your FMIC is really doing the trick considering it would be around 40 degrees with the SMIC

Really pleased with the fmic...... I've noticed since fitting the fmic that peak boost has reduced slightly to an absolute max of 1.38 bar, were before with the smic it often used to get 1.5 bar.

The performance though has improved with the fmic, the engine pulls much stronger than before and keeps on pulling further up the rev band.

Another benefit has been the fmic has totally eliminated the surge problems I was having before, and failed to cure with many new N75 valves and DV's etc.

Only wish I'd fitted one sooner.

Bill.

Well mine (standard map) runs at about 20 degrees if I'm just driving normally, and goes up to around 40 degrees if I hammer it several times. oddly enough it was showing 43 degrees the other day when I was on my way back from work in hot weather (26 degrees outside temp) but the car felt really stupidly quick and the torque was peaking at 180 ft/lb :S

We took my mates one out in the winter after he had a generic remap and the inlet air temps were peaking at over 40 degrees, but then the outside air temp was only a couple of degrees above zero. He was losing massive amounts of power and torque on successive runs and has just fitted a FMIC to sort this

You can see on the graph you must have hammered it about 8 times LOL

Yeah I did give it a few hard blasts to see what the power delivery was like! Don't look at the peak road speed :no:

What you say seems to tally up with what I've found then. 20-25 for normal driving, then 40 for a 10psi thrash and 50 for a 19psi thrash. Makes sense.

I wonder at what temperature ratio (ambient air temp : boost air temp) you start to significantly lose power? Obviously the cooler the better, but I wonder at what point can you justify a FMIC or a better SMIC? If I'm seeing a 20:50 ratio at peak boost......

Highest intake temp I've seen on my liquid gauge since fitting the pro alloy fmic is 28 degrees.

But I've noticed something very odd with the AIT sensor in my car...... ie; my cars AIT temps go quite high when the throttle is closed on overrun etc or on idle at traffic lights etc.

My guess is the AIT sensor is suffering heat soak from the inlet manifold.

I know you can get an uprated gasket to reduce heat soak but I'd prefer to leave it as it is as I think under certain conditions some heat soak into the inlet manifold is a good thing as it tends to help cool the cylinder head.

So I have been thinking about adapting a spare boost pressure sensor adapter I have and try moving the AIT sensor from the inlet manifold to the boost pipe up stream of the throttle body so the AIT sensor only records charge air temp and not inlet manifold temp.

Bill.

That 28 degrees is pretty impressive with a remap! You have me interested!

I totally agree with you about the inlet manifold gasket. People never seem to think that the heat still needs to go somewhere. So instead of a load of the heat from the head being nicely conducted out and away to the aluminium inlet manifold, it's going to dwell in the head and may cause problems. Feels like a backward step to me. The Audi engineers that designed this engine know more about engine design than most of the tuners I think!

The heat soak thing is interesting, I'll keep an eye out for it next time I do a log. I actually changed the temp sensor a couple of years back, and the old one was covered in oily deposits.

mine never went over 25 to 30 degree's even very hard driving

mine never went over 25 to 30 degree's even very hard driving

Did you have a front mount then?

Maybe I'm reading the data wrong, and the 50 degree spikes are with the throttle closed (like Bill said). I'll try it again and actually watch the numbers as I'm driving this time.

Hmmm you have me doubting what I had assumed! I'm beginning to think I'm actually only seeing 30 degrees on boost.....

Nope it was as I thought before. About 50 degrees on full boost and WOT. The gap is where the engine was turned off, so you can see the heat soak. I've included throttle position this time too. In slow town driving the temp just gradually creeps up as there's not enough airflow to cool it. Normal lane driving cools it back down nicely, but when you really welly it hard it rises up nicely as you can see! Car was started from stone cold. I'd like to know how it is on a really long run, in summer and winter. Just for the geek factor!