I'm just going to look at the wishbones, purely for the solid bushes when mine die.

It's more of a lifetime thing for me, and a shame you don't appear to be able to just buy the solid bushes for the console etc alone.

Hauptmann, am i reading them right in that they say that:

- the WALK gives dynamic camber and that the effects of dynamic camber are felt most at lower speeds (<50mph) or generally where more lock is applied

- the TT wishbones would be needed to allow you to dial in enough static camber to cope for higher speed / less lock corners?

- because of the excessive bump steer (0.4 degrees at 40mm deflection they say) it's absolutely uber critical that the person doing the alignment gets the ride height right before starting or it's a complete waste of time doing the alignment at the front

Sy -- i'm on a different computer now but i'll post the link to the whiteline stuff i was reading when i get back, if you have faith in them (i don't really know that much about them except they seem to be popular with the scooby guys and they seem to know what they're talking about in their whitepapers) they say the anti-rollbars are needed first and they peg them quite a bit above the WALK (which has similar effects to a smaller front ARB in some ways).

EDIT: I'm guessing the walk & TT arms would be at the same priority for them

Edited 25 June, 201015 yr by Mute

This version's much clearer than the whitepaper, it's an advert but it's based on the same content:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/175%20-%20VW%20Golf%20MKV.pdf

Sy -- i'm on a different computer now but i'll post the link to the whiteline stuff i was reading when i get back, if you have faith in them (i don't really know that much about them except they seem to be popular with the scooby guys and they seem to know what they're talking about in their whitepapers) they say the anti-rollbars are needed first and they peg them quite a bit above the WALK (which has similar effects to a smaller front ARB in some ways).

EDIT: I'm guessing the walk & TT arms would be at the same priority for them

im not going to do the walk, im going to give the superpro castor bush a try, superpro control arm mount castor bush

Before i stripped everything off, i was running eibach front and rear ARBs and they were quite good, but i think the extra camber will provide more turn in grip and let me power out earlier on track, so im leaning towards that at the moment.

im not going to do the walk, im going to give the superpro castor bush a try, superpro control arm mount castor bush

Looks like it does near enough the same job but at half the price. Seems a simpler design -- the centre hole is off centre.

The whiteline guys made mention of not doing the full length of the hole hexagonal like the superpro to help eliminate some NVH (i didn't know what that meant but apparently it's noise, vibration and harshness) they found.

It's one thing me reading all this and trying to work out what to spend money on, but you've done the practice before. I've read you rating the ARBs pretty highly before, and others do too. Any other things to be aware of? Any gotchas?

I followed a wee corsa through Wishaw the other day and i reckon he must have had an iron girder for a rear ARB, both rear wheels were bobbing together when one hit a bump. I was tempted to flash him and ask for a ride in the passenger seat to see what it feels like did strangely look kinda good even if that's not the point...

The fact that most corsa don't have independent rear suspension would perhaps be why

Hauptmann is the ONLY person on here that actually knows exactly what modding the suspension does by the sound of it, and if you read his post you'll also see that slamming a car on coilovers isnt going to make it handle better either ;-) ( but thats another topic )

Interesting mod the wishbones etc and one i definately wont be doing. Would like to use the tt wishbone bushes tho possibly, depending on how much 'harder' they are.

Hauptmann is the ONLY person on here that actually knows exactly what modding the suspension does by the sound of it, and if you read his post you'll also see that slamming a car on coilovers isnt going to make it handle better either ;-) ( but thats another topic )

Interesting mod the wishbones etc and one i definately wont be doing. Would like to use the tt wishbone bushes tho possibly, depending on how much 'harder' they are.

They are not really that much harder, just they don't tend to go soft and break up after a couple of years, so that the steering goes "soft".

I've heard you can't get the bushes alone and also swapping the whole wishbone is cheaper than old one off, bush change and put it on in terms of labour.

At this point, just the two wishbones sounds promising.

They are not really that much harder, just they don't tend to go soft and break up after a couple of years, so that the steering goes "soft".

I've heard you can't get the bushes alone and also swapping the whole wishbone is cheaper than old one off, bush change and put it on in terms of labour.

At this point, just the two wishbones sounds promising.

I think you can buy just the bushes. They are not difficult to swap out, TBH, I think some garages make a bit of meal of it.

You can also by PU bushes (front wishbone, front and rear locations) for the Octy II. I think Powerflex items are under £30 each.

The Whiteline bush is actually in two parts. An inner that fits over the hex pin on the w/bone and an outer that the inner slides into - and rotates within. So unlike the standard and Powerflex bushes, the Whiteline bush acts as a pivot and the bush material is not under any shear stress. Quite a nice design really.

The fact that most corsa don't have independent rear suspension would perhaps be why

Corsas use what GM call a 'compound crank' rear suspension. Its basically similar to that of other small cars - a torsion beam with trailing arms. Theoretically it IS an independent suspension system with roll-stiffness (i.e. ARB function) provided by the torsion beam.

if you read his post you'll also see that slamming a car on coilovers isnt going to make it handle better either ;-) ( but thats another topic )

Coilovers won't necessarily make the car handle better. The usual bonus (apart from the appearance - which a lot of people go for) is that you can adjust the spring plates and also the compression/rebound damping. i.e. in theory you can fine-tune the characteristics to suit your circumstances. To do this properly is not simple though and takes time, and I suspect most are rather poorly set up.

The fact that most corsa don't have independent rear suspension would perhaps be why

Haha i was closer than i thought with the iron girder then i used to have one of these but it was before i was into my cars. I knew to fill it up with diesel and i hated the fact the local polish / romainian car wash never used a sponge. Now i know better on both counts

Coilovers won't necessarily make the car handle better. The usual bonus (apart from the appearance - which a lot of people go for) is that you can adjust the spring plates and also the compression/rebound damping. i.e. in theory you can fine-tune the characteristics to suit your circumstances. To do this properly is not simple though and takes time, and I suspect most are rather poorly set up.

Just to show i'm awake at the back of the class here: lowered CoG and therefore reduced roll moment in cornering too, right :-P

Edited 28 June, 201015 yr by Mute

yes the CofG might actually be lower, however to low will throw the roll centre of the car out, reduce damper travel, and make the car worse in the conrers

I think you can buy just the bushes. They are not difficult to swap out, TBH, I think some garages make a bit of meal of it.

You can also by PU bushes (front wishbone, front and rear locations) for the Octy II. I think Powerflex items are under £30 each.

The Whiteline bush is actually in two parts. An inner that fits over the hex pin on the w/bone and an outer that the inner slides into - and rotates within. So unlike the standard and Powerflex bushes, the Whiteline bush acts as a pivot and the bush material is not under any shear stress. Quite a nice design really.

I tried and was told a big no for the MK V based TT.

If you can and people have part numbers that would be great news.

I'm not a fan of the poly bushes as they behave differently to the OEM rubber/metal ones, however if the whiteline bush works well, that might be a good option.

You have any more info on the above?

Ta

Interesting read lads and on my list of mods to do.

Another thread from the dead here...

 

3 years on, has anyone got feedback on what the TT wishbones are like fitted to the Octy? One of mine is knocking, and the other was replaced by a cheap no name make by the previous owner so I'll need a pair soon...

i had the tt arms on mine, great mod however you end up with min -2 negative camber plus the increased castor can put the wheel very close to the arch - not a problem if you are on stock wheels (or OEM size wheels) but can be a problem if you're running lower offest or wider wheels.   Running -2 negative camber on the front is great for handling but will wear the tyres more on the inner edge; great for a low miles car or if you do track days, but not so good for a high miler like mine.

 

I replaced my tt arms with S3 arms.  They are also alloy so you get the weight saving but they are geometrically identical to the skoda items.  I fitted mine with adjustable ball joints (superpro) so i could run slightly less camber than i had with the tt arms but more than stock. 

 

wishbones on their own wont' transform the car, but if you fit these as part of an overall chassis upgrade including bushes, ARBs, anti-lift kit/adjustable ball joints, improved damping, lighter wheels etc then its worth doing. 

 

HTH

i had the tt arms on mine, great mod however you end up with min -2 negative camber plus the increased castor can put the wheel very close to the arch - not a problem if you are on stock wheels (or OEM size wheels) but can be a problem if you're running lower offest or wider wheels.   Running -2 negative camber on the front is great for handling but will wear the tyres more on the inner edge; great for a low miles car or if you do track days, but not so good for a high miler like mine.

 

I replaced my tt arms with S3 arms.  They are also alloy so you get the weight saving but they are geometrically identical to the skoda items.  I fitted mine with adjustable ball joints (superpro) so i could run slightly less camber than i had with the tt arms but more than stock. 

 

wishbones on their own wont' transform the car, but if you fit these as part of an overall chassis upgrade including bushes, ARBs, anti-lift kit/adjustable ball joints, improved damping, lighter wheels etc then its worth doing. 

 

HTH

 

How about wheelspin with negative camber? 300lb/ft through the front wheels is a handful in the dry alone!

 

And thanks for the tip on the S3 arms too.

 

How about wheelspin with negative camber? 300lb/ft through the front wheels is a handful in the dry alone!

 

And thanks for the tip on the S3 arms too.

 

 

wheelspin?  didn't notice it being any better/worse tbh however i don't have 300lb/ft

Passat alloy arms also fit.