Im not saying im after doing hand brake turns etc but mine handbrake is crap, if i pull it up it doesnt make alotta differnce. It holds on a hill ok though!

Any Ideas?

Adjust it!! Sit in the back seat, pull of the rear tray in the centre console and turn the 10mm. adjusting nut a couple turns clockwise, test handbrake, turn adjusting nut a bit more but not too much that it binds the pads.

Adjust it!! Sit in the back seat, pull of the rear tray in the centre console and turn the 10mm. adjusting nut a couple turns clockwise, test handbrake, turn adjusting nut a bit more but not too much that it binds the pads.

cheers mate

If its really cr4p you'll have to adjust it at the rear calipers

how is that done?

If its really cr4p you'll have to adjust it at the rear calipers

There is no adjustment at the calipers ! only from where Soo1e has said

But if it is very bad, its either the cable(s) that have stretched or poss New Pads and or Disks

Radiotwo

There is no adjustment at the calipers ! only from where Soo1e has said

But if it is very bad, its either the cable(s) that have stretched or poss New Pads and or Disks

Radiotwo

Where soot said is for hanbrake height / clicks!!

To sort the bite its done at the rear calipers one on either side, i should know as ive done both

Where soot said is for hanbrake height / clicks!!

To sort the bite its done at the rear calipers one on either side, i should know as ive done both

Care to expand on this please. The VRS has discs on the rear, and there is no handbrake adjustment other than the nuts under the centre consule, which are adjusted to give 1mm clearance between the handbrake pivot on the rear caliper and the end stop on the caliper. All other rear brake adjustment is performed by the winding action of the rear caliper piston.

Even cars with rear drum brakes are self adjusting if everything is working as it should.

As Moggytech says. The pistons should slowly wind out of the calipers as the pads wear, its not usual for for the self adjusting mechanism to stop working but they may be so caked up with dirt or rusting which would need taking apart and cleaning.

Care to expand on this please. The VRS has discs on the rear, and there is no handbrake adjustment other than the nuts under the centre consule, which are adjusted to give 1mm clearance between the handbrake pivot on the rear caliper and the end stop on the caliper. All other rear brake adjustment is performed by the winding action of the rear caliper piston.

Even cars with rear drum brakes are self adjusting if everything is working as it should.

Yes there is

Two on either side where the handbrake cable goes to the caliper, adjuatment is made by two nuts one on either caliper!

My handbrake height was spot on but the handbrake did not hold the car they had to be adjusted at the caliper

Car was a black magic fabia vrs yn04 loa and did it personally

Yes there is

Two on either side where the handbrake cable goes to the caliper, adjuatment is made by two nuts one on either caliper!

My handbrake height was spot on but the handbrake did not hold the car they had to be adjusted at the caliper

Car was a black magic fabia vrs yn04 loa and did it personally

Can you show where these nuts are on this Skoda Workshop Manual Diagram please? The cable secures to the caliper with a circlip, and latches into the caliper lever with a ferrule, not a nut in sight.

Sorry but that's total nonsense. That nut is simply the fixing for the handbrake lever caliper pivot arm.

In any case, handbrake adjustment should NEVER be done using the pivot arm. If it wont adjust correctly using the ONLY nut under the centre consule, then the caliper handbrake assembly is seized, or faulty, and the caliper needs over hauled or replaced.

Sorry to be pedantic, but information about brakes should always be 100% accurate and reliable. If in doubt, say nout.

Edited 24 July, 201015 yr by MoggyTech

Sorry but that's total nonsense. One nut is simply the fixing for the handbrake lever caliper pivot arm. Your other mark looks like it's pointing to the flexi brake pipe coupling.

In any case, handbrake adjustment should NEVER be done using the pivot arm. If it wont adjust correctly using the ONLY nut under the centre consule, then the caliper handbrake assembly is seized, or faulty, and the caliper needs over hauled or replaced.

Sorry to be pedantic, but information about brakes should always be 100% accurate and reliable. If in doubt, say nout.

Well thats where i adjuated mines no adjustment of the lever would have got the handbrake to operate calipers were not seized as they worked via the footbrake!! Trust me sherlock

The handbrake mech can seize inside the caliper but the piston will still move with the brake pedal, it's a different operation. So Sherlock says, what you did was not an adjustment that is covered by ANY Skoda service literature.

You can start name calling all you want, it would be easier to admit, you made an error, happens to us all from time to time.

The handbrake mech can seize inside the caliper but the piston will still move with the brake pedal, it's a different operation. So Sherlock says, what you did was not an adjustment that is covered by ANY Skoda service literature.

You can start name calling all you want, it would be easier to admit, you made an error, happens to us all from time to time.

Nope

The adjustment was out at the caliper i think that it had slipped at that nut, it was the way to fix it!! Before hand no handbrake after handbrake works..... No adjustment of centre console nut would have solved this. It failed its mot on handbrake after i did this it passed

Nope

The adjustment was out at the caliper i think that it had slipped at that nut, it was the way to fix it!! Before hand no handbrake after handbrake works..... No adjustment of centre console nut would have solved this. It failed its mot on handbrake after i did this it passed

Would you like a bigger shovel?

Would you like a bigger shovel?

Nah mate i believe im right you believe your right

Sorry but that's total nonsense. That nut is simply the fixing for the handbrake lever caliper pivot arm.

In any case, handbrake adjustment should NEVER be done using the pivot arm. If it wont adjust correctly using the ONLY nut under the centre consule, then the caliper handbrake assembly is seized, or faulty, and the caliper needs over hauled or replaced.

Sorry to be pedantic, but information about brakes should always be 100% accurate and reliable. If in doubt, say nout.

Hi Moggytech

I have not stripped this part down, but does the spindle where the bracket goes on not have a flat edge on at least one side ? so

the only way you it will fit is 180 degrees ! so if the other guy has adjusted the part, it could slip if too much pressure is put on it,

it could just slip and the handbrake could fail with vary severe consequences !

So Banana Tobacco, I suggest you get it to a garage to get it checked out, as you don't seem to know too much about cars !

Radiotwo

Hi Moggytech

I have not stripped this part down, but does the spindle where the bracket goes on not have a flat edge on at least one side ? so

the only way you it will fit is 180 degrees ! so if the other guy has adjusted the part, it could slip if too much pressure is put on it,

it could just slip and the handbrake could fail with vary severe consequences !

So Banana Tobacco, I suggest you get it to a garage to get it checked out, as you don't seem to know too much about cars !

Radiotwo

Dont talk nonesense.....

Dont talk nonesense.....

So whats to stop it spinning on the shaft ? And don't say the nut

Radiotwo

Edited 24 July, 201015 yr by RADIOTWO

Hi Moggytech

I have not stripped this part down, but does the spindle where the bracket goes on not have a flat edge on at least one side ? so

the only way you it will fit is 180 degrees ! so if the other guy has adjusted the part, it could slip if too much pressure is put on it,

it could just slip and the handbrake could fail with vary severe consequences !

So Banana Tobacco, I suggest you get it to a garage to get it checked out, as you don't seem to know too much about cars !

Radiotwo

I believe the only parts available for the rear caliper are the piston dust boot, and the main seal. I've never stripped a VAG rear caliper down, other than to replace seals,but going by other types, the handbrake pivot lever has always been one of the following two types of fitting onto the caliper handbrake spindle.

1: Splined (Could never slip)

2: Two notched steps on the arm, with corresponding fitting on the spindle.

The caliper in question has a handbrake lever end stop, so any rotation would have to be forward. Given the forces involved when the handbrake is applied, the lever cannot simply be held by the nut alone.

I will have a good hunt through my Skoda Tech Manuals and see if I can find an exploded view.

I found an exploded view of the rear caliper, but as I thought, it only shows the front view of components that are service items.

However, beside the diagram, is the following tech note for Skoda Mechanics

10 - Brake caliper housing with lever for hand-brake cable

Replace brake caliper housing if the lever for the hand-brake cable is not tight

Edition 03.01

S00.5303.08.20 Page 47-1 Section 6

Edited 24 July, 201015 yr by MoggyTech

Mines must have moved on the spline.... Maybe a loose nut or whatever but the only way to sort it was to reposition it

Mines must have moved on the spline.... Maybe a loose nut or whatever but the only way to sort it was to reposition it

Good man, you've come back down to earth gently! Only weakness with that way of thinking is that that pivot gets quite a lot of load (torque) put on it - so if that was the case then I'd expect the lever to slip back - as suggested by others, I would expect that Lucas would have make that pivot with one or maybe two flats - to speed up initial assembly at Lucas - and also to provide the integrity to prevent movement while in service. Having splines allows for future adjustment but slows down initial assembly - so would add to unit cost.

Seriously, as said by others, I'd have another look at what you have done to confirm that all is okay, I'd be 99.9% sure that you could have solved your inefficient handbrake problems by (1) slackening off the cable a bit (incase someone had already done the wrong thing and tightened it) > (2) remove the calliper fist and pads and clean everything up > (3) re-zero the piston (fully wind it back in) > (4) refit everything making sure that you put a touch of copperslips where needed and blue Loctite on the mounting bolts > (5) followed the correct procedure to bring the pads back out and then operate the handbrake a few times > (6) adjust the handbrake cable only if necessary to give minium clearance at the stops when the handbrake is off.

Even better still, order in a pair (RHS and LHS) Sharan external handbrake lever return springs - and fit them - I tend to accept that the stop clearance then will be nothing or nearly nothing!

Edited 25 July, 201015 yr by rum4mo