I regularly visit the site and it has helped provide answers on various issues - so could I ask you guys work your magic again with this one?

The passenger side door on my L&M TDI will not open from the inside or outside - the silver knob thing is slighlty raised and not flush when locked like the other doors, the window and mirror work fine.

Having searched the site I found a post that referred to a dead locked rear passenger door indicating that enough access to the torx screws could be gained by removing the centre pillar plastic cover and door seals.

If I do manage to get enough movement on the door card what would I be feeling/looking for on the inside and rough location of items which will allow the door to open to be able to investigate further?

I have do have a BFH but don't fancy using it!!

Cheers

Neil

Edited 6 August, 201015 yr by smallbloke1

I think you will need to get the internal panel off the door and apply a level of abuse with your BFH to the lock.

yeah try and get the internal pannel off but see if there are any loose connections before taking the BFH to it!

do the electric windows / mirror work on the passenger door? Good point Mike, worth checking the electrics are working as expected before thumperation begin.

do the electric windows / mirror work on the passenger door? Good point Mike, worth checking the electrics are working as expected before thumperation begin.

Yes the window and mirror work fine - wouldn't know what to do with BFH even though I have one - if the door card comes loose what am I looking for to allow door to open without BFH?!!?

have a search on here, or read back - it was mentioned a week or so back how to open a deadlocked door.

Getting the door card off easy enough, again I think the details are in the same thread.

EDIT: Linky to previous thread

Second linky

hth

Edited 6 August, 201015 yr by mbames

Had the same problem, I took the door card off then took a large chisel and hammer to the door lock, 5 minutes of brute force soon had it opened.

Had the same problem, I took the door card off then took a large chisel and hammer to the door lock, 5 minutes of brute force soon had it opened.

Managed to remove door card with not to many problems. I have checked the connectors behind the foot well cover, window regulator but could not remove the connector on the door lock. Also the cable is in intact - thats a shame.

Now I have access to the door lock etc what do I need to do now to be able to open the door. Is there any way I can check whether it is a faulty door lock motor or the window regulator unit?

Many Thanks for continued support and advice

have a search on here, or read back - it was mentioned a week or so back how to open a deadlocked door.

Getting the door card off easy enough, again I think the details are in the same thread.

EDIT: Linky to previous thread

Second linky

hth

Thanks for links it made removing the door a little less daunting - I removed the footwell cover then the sill cover and centre pillar cover which gave access to the rear door card screws. Door fittings were easy like you say and I found by removing the glove box gave a bit more leverage to break/pop the front screw holders.

Checked all connectors but a little lost what to do next.

Edited 7 August, 201015 yr by smallbloke1

At last I have managed to open the door and replace with a second hand door lock mechanism from ebay for £31.75 inc delivery

I desribed how I removed the door card in one of the previous posts although time comsuming it turned out to be easy enough with any damage bar one plastic door clip which was pence from skoda stealer.

I waited for the second hand unit to turn up first as I had seen numerous posts about the door control module being the problem. After reading these posts I was pretty sure it was the lock mechanism as my windows and electric wing mirrors worked OK, also previous to the door being dead locked the courtesy light and bottom door light worked fine.

I removed the plug from the fitted unit and connected it to the second hand unit and hit the key fob and it worked fine for unlock and lock.

It was time to try and get the door unlocked:

Started by removing the top two visible torx scews which gave some leverage to try and remove the rear cover - bearing in mind answers in this post had suggested a hammr and chisel. After various tools I found pliers by far the best to break the plastic surround. After half an hour the motor dropped out the bottom and sometime later it was followed by locking mechanism drive cog - with all the internals removed the door popped open once the door release lever was pressed. (tried to include picture but couldn't figure it out)

The next bit I thought would be easy considering it was in the Haynes manual - how wrong could I be? To remove the cable from the outer door handle the manual says remove the two rubber gromets from the rear of the door - easy. Then remove the securing screw accessed from the top hole - what screw? It turns out that once the trim cover is removed very carefully from the rear of the outer handle a screw with a strange sized allen key head (used a small flat bladded screw driver in the end) can be undone until the blank barrel can be withdrawn and cable detached.

The two screws holding the whole lock mechanism is held in place with two seven spines torx head screws - used a 6mm allem key in the to remove screws and hi presto out it came. After spending the time removing the unit refitting is a breeze.

Many thanks to all that replied there are some really good posts on here with pictures which allows you to understand what is needed before jumping in - thanks everyone!

mine has just gone!!!!! Passenger door would not open, kept trying it and eventually it popped back up, locked and unlocked a few time no problem, then the same thing happened, wasn't going to chance it so whipped out the old lock mech and replaced it with a spare I had, test shut the door and it opened fine, then locked and unlocked a few times and it now won't open!!!

Could this just be another faulty lock mech or could it be something somewhere else? Luckily I didn't re-fit the door card so I am going to use the above method to get the door open again and then may open my "old" unit and check the soldering joints.

So any suggestions? Is it just a duff lock mech? Everything else works fine!!!

hi all, i am new to all this but just got over a dead locked driver side rear door on an octavia 52 plate so thought i would share with you guys and hope it may help others, here goes, this is a 2 person fix and will only work if there is power going to the lock, to test this hold open the door handle and try to unlock with remote if you hear a "grinding" sound you have power (if not sorry the rest of this will not help you) now while repeatedly pressing the remote to unlock the door (not lock and with the door handle still held open ) a second person needs to hit the door 3 or 4 times with either a rubber mallet or their fist not enough to dent the door but quite hard nevertheless where the lock is situated ( look at the opposite door from the inside), when you have done that release the handle press the remote to unlock and hopefully the door will open (it did with me). I was told by a good friend of mine that during manufacture the locks are coated with a white grease but over time this dries to a powder and sometimes stops the lock from working, so by doing this you can open the door and carry out whatever maintenence you want from there, sorry a bit long winded but hope it may help someone

cheers

Edited 14 December, 201114 yr by gary vosper

My Fabia front passenger door is now inoperable with my MOT now due. I cannot remove the panel because the door is locked and though it makes the right noises it stays locked. I have tried grabbing the silver knob but it makes no difference it just shoots back in when released.

Does anyone know how to overcome this problem without destroying the inner panel.

 

A quick answer would be appreciated.