Having successfully fitted my remote central locking kit, I thought I'd share what I've discovered to help anyone else doing the same. The kit I have is the official Skoda accessory BKA 093 015, using an AEV 4201 decoder. This is designed to wire directly into the loom with no issues (AEV being the OEM of the majority of the electronic bits, in my Felicia at least) - other kits may require more consideration for current draw, etc.

On a RHD Felicia, everything is accessible in and around the passenger footwell, so no need to remove the instrument panel as the LHD instructions say. This won't be full step-by-step guide, just covering the necessary points as raised in a few previous threads, in no particular order. I can't guarantee your car is exactly the same as mine, so be sensible and check everything as you go along - don't blame me if you muck anything up...

Power:

This unit has a permanent live feed (fused), along with a switched live to inhibit operation when the ignition is switched on. These are taken from connector C in the fusebox (top right) - it took me an embarrassingly long time to figure out you have to slide the lock lever (top left) to the left to be able to remove the connectors

The permanent live feed runs through fuse 18 (15A, unused except on cars with electric windows - I don't know if they need a higher-rated fuse), so you can simply remove and reinsert the fuse to initiate learning mode on the controller (first 25 seconds after power-on) to program new remotes to it.

Switched live (grey) - pin 5

Permanent live via fuse 18 (red) - pin 1

Earth (brown) - pin 4

The existing connections in pins 3,4 and 6 are the live, earth and lighting feed for the radio.

Lock/Unlock:

In my car, the 10-pin accessory electrical connector is accessible up behind the radio. It might be helpful to remove the radio - I don't have one fitted, and made use of the hole for access.

The lock and unlock wires are the yellow and black wires on pins 10 and 9 respectively. These take a 12V pulse from the remote unit (rated at 500mA) to trigger the central locking controller to lock/unlock the doors. As standard they're not connected to anything on the other half of the connector (the rest of the wires shown here are to do with the electric mirrors again)

Indicators:

The recommended point to connect to is the 10-pin connector for the rear lights, behind the passenger-side kick panel. Indicators are the black/white and black/green wires on pins 1 and 2 (picture shows the connections already made via the additional 4-pin connector to the right). The AEV remote unit is rated at 10A on its indicator outputs - you might want to consider a DPST relay here if yours can't switch the power itself.

Door Switches:

The instructions reference a blue wire in pin 4 of connector AA, which is the case for pre-facelift models which have the lights-on warning buzzer in position R6 in the fusebox. On post-facelift models with the buzzer in the instrument cluster, there's no connection in the fusebox, but the equivalent connection is available at the blue wire on pin 9 (or 10, I forgot to make a note of it) of the 10-pin rear body loom connector, the other end from the indicators:

(the wire is blue on the main loom, but green/white on the rear loom). It's taken me quite a while to figure this one out, hence the lack of a better picture. Thanks also to Alex (RainbowFore) for help on the issue.

Connectors:

The Skoda kit comes with all the wiring and connectors included. Otherwise I'd be tempted to rob some out of a scrap car to for a similarly neat job. Alternatively new crimp terminals and connector shells should be available from a cooperative Skoda dealer parts department. For rewiring connectors, I don't know what "special tools Skoda - set of drawers of the firm TRIGA-CS" is, but I doubt it does anything a trusty paperclip can't, like so

The unit itself is stuck to the inside of the dash under the glovebox, with it's antenna wire running up the bulkhead tucked behind the foam where it's cut for the airbag bracket.

At some point I will probably investigate using the boot release function, if I can find another internal cable release mechanism and solenoid from a scrapyard, although for now I'm tempted to hook it up to the horn so I can stand at my front window and confuse people walking past my flat

I also have a solution for triggering the courtesy light when unlocking like my Mk3 Mondeo did, I just need to find a suitable switching component...

Edited 18 January, 201115 yr by RobinSLXi

Great stuff,Robin -answered a lot of points I've tried to work out from Haynes ,and also squashed my idea that it was a negative pulse, to the yellow/black wires ( as circuit looked so similar to the one as per Maplin )- what I intended to do to verify this was to get busy with a meter .

Noticed this in your post

"At some point I will probably investigate using the boot release function, if I can find another internal cable release mechanism and a central locking motor from a scrapyard, although for now I'm tempted to hook it up to the horn so I can stand at my front window and confuse people walking past my flat "

If you don't mind some input on this ,to get you thinking ,consider this idea .

On Fabia ,I've got remote boot release ,using my homebrew radio system ,as mentioned elsewhere .I notice on another post( one of yours actually to feliciajim) re his problems on getting rear open, that the system is almost identical to that on my Fabia, physically , with provision for cable to enter from either side , using a screwed end , to cater for both RH & LH drive, with only one being used( ref your photo showing the release mech ,the unused entry is top right) .The thread for the cable end is that as used on cycles ,so that a brake end (from cycle brake lever ) will fit ( as per the cable from manual lever).

I used a 2w door motor ,enclosed in a modified piece of plastic trunking, with a metal piece held in place with the motor fixing screws to give stability to the outer cable retention , and fastened the cable in place using a bike cable fastener ( as used on brake ends) .

I've marked what I would look at in a copy of your photo -

Robin ,could I be pain and ask what fuse supplies the new grey switched wire to pin 5 of plug in second photo . .

Edited 25 August, 201015 yr by VWD

If anyone's interested, I've just noticed a couple of these kits on eBay at the moment: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Skoda-Felicia-Remote-Central-Locking-Kit-/170561838074?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b6471bfa

If anyone's interested, I've just noticed a couple of these kits on eBay at the moment: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Skoda-Felicia-Remote-Central-Locking-Kit-/170561838074?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b6471bfa

Thanks for the heads up Robin :-) One is now mine. :-) :-) (I wonder which will be here first - the kit or the truck)

Everyone else......hurry, only one left ;-)

Alex

Thanks, I got the other one - been looking for ages!

Again ,I'm going to suggest you eye post #2 - and the photo. That layout is identical to the one on the Fabia( I'd suggest that the boot catch on the Fabia is a direct copy of the Felly one) .Anyway - the unused nut ( top right on the pic-with red circle ) is the same size and thread as a cycle brake end .

My parts list to connect cable - one approx .125" pop rivet shell( remove the pin), cut to allow cable to fit. One plastic sleeve ( to be a snug fit on rivet, approx .125" ) , one cycle brake insert( screw bit that goes into cycle brake lever) ,and a lock nut , and a spring ( to help catch return) .

Had this working on Furby for three years - only two problems - took a few attempts to release in very cold weather ( probably an optimum adjust factor), and before fitting spring, catch had to be moved manually . Cycle parts certainly up to job .

Any more data - PM,and I'll try to get some pics, now that system is out of Furby ( and waiting to go in Felly) .

But I can assure that it's possible to remote the boot by DIY methods . ( Though i'd suggest a decent size wire to rear -I used 2.5mm)

Edited 5 November, 201015 yr by VWD

HI

I can't find the 10-pin connector for the central locking. I have the radio out and the glove box base out. Can't seem to see it anywhere! help.

Taff

Good job on the guide, I fitted a hawk after market kit and although it works perfectly and is good I wouldn't advise anyone go for it over the oem stuff you've mentioned (simply a pain in the backside to fit due to having to find a home for frustratingly large motors.

HI

I can't find the 10-pin connector for the central locking. I have the radio out and the glove box base out. Can't seem to see it anywhere! help.

Taff

Do you have any existing kit in the doors already? (Electric windows / mirrors)

Is it an OEM kit?

Have you got the OEM instructions?

Alex

No I've got a basic door closing module but couldn't find where to connect it. Passenger door only had one that pulsed, could only close or open, I can't remember what. But have electric mirrors and central looking just can't get this unit to work. Seems from reading this thread it's not a negative pulse, I only need to find the connector to try to see if it works. I hope this makes sense as I've had a few.

Taff

Doesn't sound like an OEM kit, or the whole OEM kit. Front door motors should have 5 wires coming out of them, the rear only 2. You should be able to lock and unlock all from both front doors. It doesn't look like it's a 'pulse' to change state, but a reverse in polarity instead. When I set mine up, I connected the entire kit up on the garage floor first and wired into a spare battery. As a couple of units were plugged in, the motors kicked in and the mechanism moved. It sounded like they were syncing up to the same state. After that they all worked together.

If the car didn't have electric mirrors or windows, then the 10-pin connector won't be in there and you have to wire one in yourself (in that case for just the power.

Here's the instructions that came with my OEM kit: Central Locking Book

You're best off printing them and putting them in the right order (they were just scanned as they fell open). Probably in the morning ;)

Also this guide was for adding the remote to the central locking, not installing the central locking itself

Edited 8 April, 201115 yr by RainbowFore

Thanks RainbowFore. I have the normal central locking but bought a simple remote unit. See

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/158952-urgent-help-central-locking/page__p__2012020__fromsearch__1#entry2012020

I managed to get it to work but could only close the locks. I have electric mirrors so should have the 10 block. If I could only find that I'd know whether this bloody unit works.

Taff

Whey hey found it. What a fight. It was tight in under/behind glovebox with the wiring going over the bottom screw fix so tight I couldn't get to it without undoing a few screws, but it's done and remote works. Can't be arsed finding out where the indicator cable connection goes. Think I've pulled out the plastic heating thingy from behind the stereo and can't seem to fix it exactly back into place. Fed up and still have to put in new mp3 stereo for wife.

Hi again

I'm extremely happy the remotes work but one last question. How do I get the indicators to flash with only one control wire from the remote control unit. It's all installed in the passenger foot well is there any easy way to get it done. It'll be a pain to go across to the four way switch and I don't really understand picture 5.

Nearly there! Got the stereo fitted but speakers are the wrong way round but there is sound so I'm happy with that for now.

Taff

bump! got a cheapo universal kit from ebay rather than a skoda one but still found guide very useful.

many thanks robin!

I bought an accessory remote controller from Ebay

But now I have a problem: how should I connect this? Instruction manual that came with this isn`t very good...

Central locking is using an electrical engines, so it should be pretty simple prosedure isn`t it? Can I just use this to give some "pulse" to the system, for example thru drivers door/cabling?

Cable order:

Thanks for the replies!

I bought an accessory remote controller from Ebay

But now I have a problem: how should I connect this? Instruction manual that came with this isn`t very good...

Central locking is using an electrical engines, so it should be pretty simple prosedure isn`t it? Can I just use this to give some "pulse" to the system, for example thru drivers door/cabling?

Cable order:

Thanks for the replies!

installed this same kit on my felly a while back cant remember exactly how off the top of my head but ill snap some pics for you tomorrow. should be piece of cake then

hi there doing this kit looks easy for me if you people need help ask me as i can help you with all the wires and where to find them

installed this same kit on my felly a while back cant remember exactly how off the top of my head but ill snap some pics for you tomorrow. should be piece of cake then

Did you manage to take those pics? Would really appreaciate that.

forgot about this will try and get them tomorrow sorry

hi there what are you stuck on as i will try and help you the locking side is negative locking

I`ve been kind a busy last weeks so I haven`t done anything after the last post. Now I managed to access the drivers door wires.

There was seven different wires, any suggestions about connecting them to the main unit?

Edit:

Already solved the other connections, except the "Central control lock assorted wires"

Edited 4 December, 201114 yr by samu87

hi there the unlock and lock wires are under glove box or by radio and they use a -ve unlock/lock

Edited 7 December, 201114 yr by uma1998

hi there the unlock and lock wires are under glove box or by radio and they use a -ve unlock/lock

Any suggestions about the wire colors? Going back to work at the weekend...

yellow and black they are on with the electric mirror loom