anyone know how to adjust the handbrake to reduce brake pedal travel? fitted 312s good stopping but too much travel.

Unless the cable has stretched it's auto adjusting. Cable is adjusted to give 1mm clearance between handbrake levers and the end stop on the caliper.

Slacken the handbrake cable right off, the adjuster is behind the rear ashtray. Sit in the rear seat, pull out the ashtray and you will see a 10mm. nut, this is what you need to undo. Drive the car around and keep applying the footbrake so the calipers adjust up automatically. When you done all that tighten up the handbrake cable so it comes on in 4 or 5 clicks. Hopefully the footbrake will have less travel now.

Should be no more travel, try bleeding the brakes again

Slacken the handbrake cable right off, the adjuster is behind the rear ashtray. Sit in the rear seat, pull out the ashtray and you will see a 10mm. nut, this is what you need to undo. Drive the car around and keep applying the footbrake so the calipers adjust up automatically. When you done all that tighten up the handbrake cable so it comes on in 4 or 5 clicks. Hopefully the footbrake will have less travel now.

cheers for that mate. so is the 10mm nut the adjuster? when i tighten this after drivin it around will this reduce the clicks. its on in about 8 clicks at the moment.

Yes, that's what he is telling you.

DB.

anyone know how to adjust the handbrake to reduce brake pedal travel? fitted 312s good stopping but too much travel.

Unless I'm missing something, adjusting the HANDBRAKE cable will not reduce PEDAL travel.

As allytech says, try bleeding the system again. I'd recommend the basic two-man method and run plenty of fluid through until you're sure you've got all the air out.

If you've just fitted new calipers, etc, you're probably still bedding the pads and discs in.

Edited 2 October, 201015 yr by Ian M

Unless I'm missing something, adjusting the HANDBRAKE cable will not reduce PEDAL travel.

As allytech says, try bleeding the system again. I'd recommend the basic two-man method and run plenty of fluid through until you're sure you've got all the air out.

If you've just fitted new calipers, etc, you're probably still bedding the pads and discs in.

adjusting the handbrake will reduce pedal traval, the closer the pads to the discs the less clicks it takes to apply handbrake and in turn the shorter distance he pads have to traval givin reduced pedal traval. also have heard that if you dont use an ezybleed kit you run the risk of damaging the seals on te master cylinder.

Mikejay, Are you are sure there is no air in the brake fluid? the bleeding must be done first, Do it again just to be sure . You are right in saying the pads should be closed up to the discs to reduce pedal travel but this MUST be done before you adjust the handbrake adjuster. The rear pads take longer to close up to the discs than the front ones.

yeah mate defo no air. bled the system when fitting my 312s using 5.1 fluid.

So is it sorted then?

not done the adjustment yet. will do it later. ill keep ya posted

Hope you pre filled the calipers when fitting.

did what?

adjusting the handbrake will reduce pedal traval, the closer the pads to the discs the less clicks it takes to apply handbrake and in turn the shorter distance he pads have to traval givin reduced pedal traval. also have heard that if you dont use an ezybleed kit you run the risk of damaging the seals on te master cylinder.

I think you will find that what you are saying applies to the handbrake action only, i.e. tighter the cable, less cable travel.

I repeat, adjusting a cable handbrake should have ho effect on a correctly operating hydraulic footbrake system.

Think about it. Is there a handbrake on the front discs?!!!

Using a basic two-man bleeding method can't hurt anything, but it can ensure you are not introducing/not fully getting rid of air by error in whatever other method you use.

Make sure your pads aren't binding while you check everything.