Hi to all...

Want to thank all of you... although I've never posted, I did use your discussions to decide for a Skoda Superb - over an Audi A4 and BMW 320 last year.

Common sense over emotions ... and I think it was a good decision.

I bought a late 2007 model, 1.9 TDI (PD unfortunately), and chipped it to increase output by about 15-20% (they say).

I drive it weekly from Hamburg to Prague and back (cca. 400 miles each way). In one year I've clocked about 45,000 miles.... in total the car's at 67,500 now.

Most of the trip is via autobahn, at about 100 mph. Occasionally, I'm pushing 120-125mph (but that's the end of my comfort zone and it does gets thirsty at that speed). For now, I average about 6.4L/100km (or 44mpg) ... although I've managed to get as low as 5.4 (or 52.6) when driving the route really lightly (about 75mph).

A few points...

1) I notice the speedo registers about 10 km/h higher than the speed on my Navi at the high end. I wonder whether this is normal?

I figure it isn't tire size as I'm on 205/55 R16's but that std no?.

2) Any advice about preventive service? I saw messages about CV joints and I'm planning to give them a lube this week.

3) Oil changes are tough because they come due so quickly at this mileage that I tend get them much less frequently than I'd like (or should).

4) Regarding the Turbo... I've heard good advice is to let the Turbo cool down after highway driving. Do you do this? And for how long?

(last year the turbo failed a winter storm where the front grill was encased in ice during the drive ... fortunately it came back to life the following day)

Many thanks for any advice ...

1. Normal.

2. Keeping the engine oiled and topped with all the necessary fluids will keep it running for a very long time.

3. I would, with the mileage you are running, change the oil filter often and check the EGR valve under the plastic bonnet, that it doesn't leak oil.

4. That's a myth. The reason you experienced the turbo fail in the winter is because of a design flaw from Skoda. Your air filter was filled with snow and thereby cutting the air intake to the turbo. When melted, all works fine again. I fixed this problem by setting up a screen, with small holes, in front of the air intake at the front, just under the bonnet.

1. Normal.

2. Keeping the engine oiled and topped with all the necessary fluids will keep it running for a very long time.

3. I would, with the mileage you are running, change the oil filter often and check the EGR valve under the plastic bonnet, that it doesn't leak oil.

4. That's a myth. The reason you experienced the turbo fail in the winter is because of a design flaw from Skoda. Your air filter was filled with snow and thereby cutting the air intake to the turbo. When melted, all works fine again. I fixed this problem by setting up a screen, with small holes, in front of the air intake at the front, just under the bonnet.

Sorry but Turbo cooling after a highway run is NOT a myth. I have worked with two famous turbo manufacturers in the past and there are very good reasons to let it cool down for a minute or two. If you are going at 100 mph on the 'bahn and pull up to refuel (like I do too!), that exhaust manifold will still be at 400-500 degrees C when you stop the car (fully synthetic oil turns into gum/gunk at 150 degrees statically, mineral cheap oils at 120). The oil in the turbo bearing (even fully synthetic!) will turn into carbon and gum if the turbo stops spinning when you stop the engine because of the heat soak in the heavy cast iron housing, and then on a restart that gum will affect the oil flow to the bearing for a while, just as you accelerate back up on the slip road and need the whole 130 PS to get up to speed once again and the turbo spins up to 160 000 rpm! Bad idea shutting down immediately after a high speed run. But just driving around town, I would not bother, as the whole system is running 150 to 200 degrees max normally.

I would get regular fresh oil changes on VAG 507.00 oils and your car should last a long time.

Sorry mate, i've just never heard or seen any turbos die because of this. Neither do i think the majority of car owners even think or care about this... So the car must be able to withstand such beatings after my opinion. Personally i've never done it myself and never had any problems with it. :-)

I agree with Oh Superb, use 507 oil, change it regularly, simmer the turbo after a high speed run. It will last a lot longer.

On this topic slightly, is fully synthetic oil automatically 507.00 standard? Our does it need to be fully synthetic AND 507.00 compliant? I mean, is it possible to get fully synthetic oil that is not 507.00 compliant?

I too let the turbo cool down if it's had a hard run, this does not necessarily mean sitting there with the engine ticking over, I simply let the car cool down over the last couple of miles before I turn it off.

My step son used to drive his hard then turn off straight away, TWO turbo's later and he now does the same as I do, it's not a myth at all - always let the turbo cool down if the car has been driven hard.

Syanide, not all fully synthetic oil is VW507.00.

You can also use VW506.01 in your Superb on variable servicing.

You don't need 507 unless the car has a DPF or you intend running a LL schedule.

You can use 506

Or 505.01 if you drain every 10k

If you do have the dreaded DPF 507 is the best way to not keep having to regen and extend the life of the bin.

I too let the turbo cool down if it's had a hard run, this does not necessarily mean sitting there with the engine ticking over, I simply let the car cool down over the last couple of miles before I turn it off.

My step son used to drive his hard then turn off straight away, TWO turbo's later and he now does the same as I do, it's not a myth at all - always let the turbo cool down if the car has been driven hard.

...

Again never had the problem myself and i've had 2 skodas. I guess i'm just lucky. :-)

Again never had the problem myself and i've had 2 skodas. I guess i'm just lucky. :-)

Skoda has nothing to do with it, ALL turbos should be spun down and cooled before shutting down, it's not a good idea to shut off the oil flow from a shaft running at over 10,000 + RPM. Gizmo68 has the right idea, cool it down before you stop or you can always fit a turbo timer and let the car shut itself down after a set time.

@ BKRUS "I bought a late 2007 model, 1.9 TDI (PD unfortunately)", maybe you change that to "fortunately" after having a look at some of the problems with the first of the 2.0 140's. Also fortunately you did'nt get the 320 as they have there own problems and more costly ones at that!!!!.

It's well worth letting a turbocharger cool after a hard drive (eg motorway fuel stop) as there is a real danger of lubrication failure. This usually shows as a varnish deposit on the shaft just before failure, when the oil has been "cooked" onto the shaft. Imagine your frying pan when you've let it get too hot before putting the eggs in...

A synthetic oil will work to a higher temperature limit than a semi without forming varnish and is worth using if your engine sees hard use. I use 507.00 spec oil with 7k mile fixed changes in an AWX PD.

rotodiesel.

It's well worth letting a turbocharger cool after a hard drive (eg motorway fuel stop) as there is a real danger of lubrication failure. This usually shows as a varnish deposit on the shaft just before failure, when the oil has been "cooked" onto the shaft. Imagine your frying pan when you've let it get too hot before putting the eggs in...

A synthetic oil will work to a higher temperature limit than a semi without forming varnish and is worth using if your engine sees hard use. I use 507.00 spec oil with 7k mile fixed changes in an AWX PD.

rotodiesel.

Thanks for the feedback gents... I'm a little confused by the oil issue for the Turbo and even embarrassed to ask the question. Do I understand correctly the turbo shares oil with the motor for lubrication? I would have assumed that the turbos have a dedicated oil source that is filled with some special super oil to deal with the high temperatures.

Friday I take the car for an oil change in Hamburg ... I'll assume they use the same standards codes (570.00) for the oils here.

Regarding the turbos... I've known a few people that lost their turbos albeit the exact cause wasn't mentioned to me. In any case, it's not a cheap repair and so I prefer to postpone it for as long as possible at least.

Ever drive the car with a failed turbo?

I hobbled along the autobahn and couldn't get it to even 50 mph! Bloody terrifying.

I'm sure it works out cheaper to run the engine at idle for a minute or two, rather than buy a new turbo?

I know what I would do.......

Turbo lubrication is supplied by the engine oil. VW 507 oil is a worldwide VW spec for the latest fully synthetic long life oil for VAG PD engines with (or without) DPF fitted.

Thanks for the feedback gents... I'm a little confused by the oil issue for the Turbo and even embarrassed to ask the question. Do I understand correctly the turbo shares oil with the motor for lubrication? I would have assumed that the turbos have a dedicated oil source that is filled with some special super oil to deal with the high temperatures.

Friday I take the car for an oil change in Hamburg ... I'll assume they use the same standards codes (570.00) for the oils here.

Regarding the turbos... I've known a few people that lost their turbos albeit the exact cause wasn't mentioned to me. In any case, it's not a cheap repair and so I prefer to postpone it for as long as possible at least.

Ever drive the car with a failed turbo?

I hobbled along the autobahn and couldn't get it to even 50 mph! Bloody terrifying.

Thats right mate, there is one source of oil for the whole engine and the turbo is part of that. It runs very hot and very fast, these ones run up to 160000 rpm at max car speed.

All 507.00 oils are good for your engine, and all 507 oils are synthetic.

Someone above mentioned that you only need 507 if your car has a DPF. True technically, however, the low ash content of 507 helps the internals of all engines, including those without DPF, to remain cleaner. Cheaper, particularly mineral oils, turn into varnish at high temperatures and pressures, leaving these deposits throughout the engine, coating piston skirts, ring grooves, etc. 507 oil reduces the build up of these deposits. It is also very rich on the additive package with plenty of detergents and dispersants, so coking (with carbon from fuel and oil) is minimised. For this reason, people like Rotodiesel run their cars on 507 and change oil regularly. I do the same, but I run my 2.5 TDI on Mobil ESP, which is also a top 507 oil.

I run my 2.5 TDi on the 505.01 spec oil that TPS sell for fixed servicing intervals and drop the oil every 10k. I would assume Skoda would use the same oil if they service the car saying as TPS are part of VAG. Have not had any issues so far.

I run my 2.5 TDi on the 505.01 spec oil that TPS sell for fixed servicing intervals and drop the oil every 10k. I would assume Skoda would use the same oil if they service the car saying as TPS are part of VAG. Have not had any issues so far.

No doubt thats another good oil (Quantum). I think it is made by Castrol, who invented long life oils as such (I think).