Driving today I noticed the engine light came on but its now gone off, when the engine warms up it goes off.

During the warm up period the engine light came on, the car was about to reach 90 degress the temp gauge suddenly dropped and then raised back to 90 thats when the engine light came on

Although I havent had it on diagnostics yet, could anybody from experience recommend a fix?

Where is the temp sensor on a Fabia VRS? Also why do people replace the coolant bottle is that where the temp sensor is????

Your replys are are appreciated

Edited 23 October, 201015 yr by REDFABVRS

Is the car safe to drive I need to a long 150 round trip??

Is the car safe to drive I need to a long 150 round trip??

As a general rule of thumb red warning lights means STOP NOW! and orange lights mean you can carry on but get it checked out.

The expansion bottle has a sensor that warns of low coolant level and it can go faulty and give a red coolant warning light. If that light comes on when the car is cold (i.e. when you just start up) and your coolant level is fine then its time to change the expansion bottle.

Turned out to be the coolant temp sensor located on the right side of the engine bay.

Lost some coolant during the process of removing the sensor but if your quick enough you can put the new sensor in straight away and put the circlip back on.

It wasnt the expansion bottle because the red light didnt come on, the engine light came on during the warm up period and temp needle was goin down although the engine was warm.

Easy fix in my opinion i removed the air box to gain more space, how often do they fail is a common fault??

Edited 24 October, 201015 yr by REDFABVRS

believe its quite a common thing on all vag cars. they usually bring out a new sensor every so often identified by the different colours. you say you only lost a bit of coolant when you changed the sensor did you still give the system a quick bleed?

Somebody previously advised me to leave the coolant cap off and put the heaters on full blast to let out any air lock.

I did that for 10 mins when stationary, put everything back on Iv been driving it for a good half an hour keeping an eye on the temp needle it stays bang on 90.

The coolant is on max line in the reservoir tank so im assuming everything is okay.

+ Iv noticed the heaters are working much better on number 1

Mines now on 70k if it would do another 70k without a replacement id be happy cost £20.

Just need to clear the code from the ECU but the engine light is off so im in no rush.

Edited 24 October, 201015 yr by REDFABVRS