Recently the engines started cutting out.

Normally happens whn youre sitting at lights/junction etc. No probs when youre on the move.

When its idling the rev counter is reading approx 7 - 8000 rpm. you can hear it sort of dying and i dab the throttle and give it a few more revs.

wondered if its something like the air idle valve might need cleaning - or can there be a blockage somewhere causing this.

Dunno if this is related, but the engine management light starts coming on periodically too (the orange engine-block shaped light).

Any remedies might help solve the problem?

otherwise a trip to my mechanic and get him to run a diagnostic check.

ta

Neil

dammit my crystal ball is broken... is it petrol or diesel? engine size?

7-8000 RPM is one hell of a fast tickover It's not an F1 car is it?

oops

careless of me

1.4 mpi (petrol)

sorry, should have been 7-800 rpm

Y reg - about 10 years old 122 ooo miles

its well used but regularly serviced.

The cutting out has been going on before the electronic engine light sprung into life

Start with a code scan. Likely to be a vacuum hose split or perished.

At that mileage, and if it's serviced well, my money is on a dirty throttle body that needs a clean up and adaptation on VCDS. It's probably the only thing which gets overlooked on these cars and as crank case gasses are vented straight into the throttle body it carries all the oil, goo and gum that will eventually need cleaning off. I guess it could still be something more involved though.

Whereabouts in the country are you? Someone with VCDS might be able to help you out

Edited 31 October, 201015 yr by anewman

At that mileage, and if it's serviced well, my money is on a dirty throttle body that needs a clean up and adaptation on VCDS. It's probably the only thing which gets overlooked on these cars and as crank case gasses are vented straight into the throttle body it carries all the oil, goo and gum that will eventually need cleaning off. I guess it could still be something more involved though.

Whereabouts in the country are you? Someone with VCDS might be able to help you out

thanks moggy tech and anewman

interesting.

Im in Somerset near Taunton.

Scuse my ignorance, whats VCDS?

Ive cleaned out the throttle body on my old Volvo - is this the kind of thing I can tackle in this instance or is it a little more hi- tec than just whipping it off, cleaning it out with a squyirt of throttle cleaner then bolting it back together with a new gasket? We've got a reliable mechanic with main dealer background if not.

Also where is the throttle body ?

cheers

Neil

Under the engine cover (2x 10mm nuts, one under badge other under another cover then pull upwards - there is a spare oil cap under the cover to keep the oil filler closed), at the back there's a plastic cover coming from the air filter box on top of the throttle body. I think it is 3x 5mm allen key screws to remove (part 17 in image below). The big hose from the rocker cover connects to this plastic cover on the left (as you see it from the front of the car).

Cleaning the throttle body is diyable I would say, but VCDS would be needed to run a throttle body alignment. VCDS is a piece of software used in conjunction with a cable and laptop that plugs into the car's diagnostic port hidden behind the storage compartment to the lower right of the dash driver's side. Once the throttle body is cleaned it should still be reasonably driveable. Remember if the electrical connector is disconnected from the throttle body this will reset the values, so try to leave it plugged in if possible. New gasket is required if removing it to clean it thoroughly.

Having codes read with VCDS will also give an idea as to whether there is anything else that may be causing the fault to look at instead. But at this mileage if the throttle body had never been cleaned better now than never

Here's a list of people with VCDS http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/74720-vag-com-diagnostic-system-vcds-owners-map/ who are happy to help out, possibly for a few beer tokens. I see there's some in Somerset.

Gasket on throttle body is part number: 047133073C (number 3 on image below).

Edited 31 October, 201015 yr by anewman

Under the engine cover (2x 10mm nuts, one under badge other under another cover then pull upwards - there is a spare oil cap under the cover to keep the oil filler closed), at the back there's a plastic cover coming from the air filter box on top of the throttle body. I think it is 3x 5mm allen key screws to remove (part 17 in image below). The big hose from the rocker cover connects to this plastic cover on the left (as you see it from the front of the car).

Cleaning the throttle body is diyable I would say, but VCDS would be needed to run a throttle body alignment. VCDS is a piece of software used in conjunction with a cable and laptop that plugs into the car's diagnostic port hidden behind the storage compartment to the lower right of the dash driver's side. Once the throttle body is cleaned it should still be reasonably driveable. Remember if the electrical connector is disconnected from the throttle body this will reset the values, so try to leave it plugged in if possible. New gasket is required if removing it to clean it thoroughly.

Having codes read with VCDS will also give an idea as to whether there is anything else that may be causing the fault to look at instead. But at this mileage if the throttle body had never been cleaned better now than never

Here's a list of people with VCDS http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/74720-vag-com-diagnostic-system-vcds-owners-map/ who are happy to help out, possibly for a few beer tokens. I see there's some in Somerset.

Gasket on throttle body is part number: 047133073C (number 3 on image below).

thats brilliant.

many thanks for your time

Neil

It was the MAP sensor when my wife's started acting up like this (item 5 on the second blow-up). A fault code scan will confirm, or you can see if disconnecting it makes any difference to the way the engine runs (if it's just as bad, the sensor's duff; if it runs worse, then it's OK...)

HTH

chairs

I shall give it a go

neil

Revivial thread I found a few post of this so am waiting to see if this happens again to me. Happened yesterday during the really cold snow...she just turned off while in traffic - no off lights on the dash...started again with a bit of delay but seems to be okay now. Maybe I needed to warm her up longer? Next day I warmed up her a bit longer, same journey no problem. Cold weather?