Morning guys and girls

Right I have my vRS now and have already sorted or replaced a few bits and pieces but there is still work to do... I have serviced it, found the split Y pipe and bought a Viper Performance one (going on today!), cleared the error codes for the 'running lean' (I assume to do with split Y breather pipe)

and 'not communication with brake light switch' (new switch fitted), thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and put back with new gasket, new spark plugs (snapped a t-bar spark plug spanner getting number 2 out!!!!)...however I still need to do the Secondary Air Pump, which looks straight forward enough, and thermostat (gets up to temp but if you nail it the temp starts to drop...classic failing 'stat signs)

So I now have the problem of the potentially (I assume definately) split vac pipe under the inlet manifold...how do I get to it? it doesn't seem terribly obvious without removing the inlet itself (not fancying that really). Any clues on this would be greatly appreciated. Also I have the wobbly idle which may be due to Y breather, split vac hose under inlet, or the MAF?...or all three?? (I am getting an 'intermittant signal' message for the MAF in the error codes.) Has anyone successfully managed to clean a MAF using Isopropyl and if so how did you do it??

Very many thanks for looking and for any help offered.

cheer TS

Edited 4 November, 201015 yr by tarmacsurfer

This seems a good price for a new, none exchange MAF?? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Air-flow-mass-meter-sensor-SKODA-OCTAVIA-1-8T-RS-1U5-/350375554262?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item519402acd6

do not buy air mass meters from ebay they dont work there cheap crap

buy only oem for this part

do not buy air mass meters from ebay they dont work there cheap crap

buy only oem for this part

Makes sense...cheers for that.

TS

Done a TB re-set recently? Can often be the cause of a dodgy idle

You can clean the MAF with Isopropal. Remove the 2 security torx screws that hold the sensor on to the MAF housing & pull out the sensor. Get a freezer bag & put a enough Isopropal in to submerge sensor end of the MAF, Give it a good shake to get some flow around the sensor, which helps to remove any stubborn contaminants. Leave it to soak for 30 mins or so & remove & dry out. Do not poke cotton buds into the sensor opening.

To get at the pipes by the inlet manifold remove the plastic cover that sits beneath the manifold. You will then see a black plate that the N249 etc mount to & various small pipes disappear under, there are 2 allen bolts that secure the plate to the Cylinder Head remove the allen bolts & then access is easy.

Done a TB re-set recently? Can often be the cause of a dodgy idle

I have cleaned it but not reset it...can it be reset with an unregistered copy of VAG COM Lite??

You can clean the MAF with Isopropal. Remove the 2 security torx screws that hold the sensor on to the MAF housing & pull out the sensor. Get a freezer bag & put a enough Isopropal in to submerge sensor end of the MAF, Give it a good shake to get some flow around the sensor, which helps to remove any stubborn contaminants. Leave it to soak for 30 mins or so & remove & dry out. Do not poke cotton buds into the sensor opening.

To get at the pipes by the inlet manifold remove the plastic cover that sits beneath the manifold. You will then see a black plate that the N249 etc mount to & various small pipes disappear under, there are 2 allen bolts that secure the plate to the Cylinder Head remove the allen bolts & then access is easy.

Awesome thank you!!!! I have found this post too which covers the very pipe :-) Vac pipe fix

You actually don't have to reset the TB. Over a few driving cycles it'll sort itself out. I have full Vagcom, & don't know if Lite will do it, but I would have thought it will as TB alignment is a common procedure.

there is also this mod to consider when fixing that pipe CLICK ME

there is also this mod to consider when fixing that pipe CLICK ME

Class!! I like it.

I had a long list of pipes and things that were causing me to lose boost, anything that is connected to the inlet manifold has the potential to be a boost leak. The check valve that the pipe goes down to gets really cr4pped up and even after cleaning mine I still had issues. Fitting an extra valve into that pipe gained 2psi I also gained another 1-2 when I replaced the "suction spray pump" which is the plastic valve that lives under the inlet manifold with all the other vac ****. HTH

Is this one the right size?? 8mm Check Valve

or is it this one?? 10mm Check Valve

I can't see your original suggestion on Ebay any more....

I have decided to buy the actual valve in the t piece instead I thought that for about £6 is was worth it just to be sure...

I looked at the pipe and it is split...so I have taped it with my magic tape until the part arrives on Tuesday...

Edited 5 November, 201015 yr by tarmacsurfer