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Three attempts and a ton lighter...

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One garage had two attempts at repairing the carrier but only made it worse.

Second garage has done a better job but I still found a small amount of moisture on the seal. The rear carpet is slightly damp but probably still to dry out from when the leak was pretty bad.

The rear passenger side is bone dry - just the offside that's giving me the problem - there's also water on the sill, which isn't there on the passenger side - could door alignment be a problem in addition to the carrier?

The whole carry on is getting me down - it's a great car otherwise but was thinking today I'd have been better keeping my previous motor, which was as water tight as a U-boat.

just bad repairs

do it yourself with some roof and gutter sealant!

this stuff is the daddy!!!

  • Author

just bad repairs

do it yourself with some roof and gutter sealant!

this stuff is the daddy!!!

How long does it take to dry?

Unfortunately I'm just a pen pusher - any time I try to turn my hand to anything practical it ends up worse than before.

How long does it take to dry?

Unfortunately I'm just a pen pusher - any time I try to turn my hand to anything practical it ends up worse than before.

fully dry in around 18-24 hours

but it doesnt matter as you just plonk the rear door cover back on so you can't touch it as it drys

really good stuff

if garages have tried twice they must be micky mouse numptys

I was wondering about this and when it would happen to mine... then wading through the folder of receipts I found the warranty note from when the door seals were sorted by Skoda. No water so far...

There's a chap called Colin Howie on here who is a Vag Mechanic in Kilmarnock and does homers. Might be worth dropping him a messag eto see if he would be able to sort it for you. Mind if the garages have charged you to sort the seal and its not sorted surely they should deal with it?

  • Author

I was wondering about this and when it would happen to mine... then wading through the folder of receipts I found the warranty note from when the door seals were sorted by Skoda. No water so far...

There's a chap called Colin Howie on here who is a Vag Mechanic in Kilmarnock and does homers. Might be worth dropping him a messag eto see if he would be able to sort it for you. Mind if the garages have charged you to sort the seal and its not sorted surely they should deal with it?

Cheers Dougie. I'm going to take it back to let them have a second attempt (the second garage) - after I picked it up it absolutely chucked it down (I've got a lockup but didn't even get a chance to put in there before the downpour) - not sure the sealant would have been fully dry (that's why I asked Big Jase how long the roof / gutter sealant takes to dry).

Like the car by the way - seems a good 'un - you were right to pass on the one in Tollcross.

It's not all that difficult as it sounds. I suspect the garage is either using the incorrect type of sealant or applied it incorrectly (not smoothed it out). See

Edited by anewman

Cheers Dougie. I'm going to take it back to let them have a second attempt (the second garage) - after I picked it up it absolutely chucked it down (I've got a lockup but didn't even get a chance to put in there before the downpour) - not sure the sealant would have been fully dry (that's why I asked Big Jase how long the roof / gutter sealant takes to dry).

Like the car by the way - seems a good 'un - you were right to pass on the one in Tollcross.

Good luck, aye the new one's a belter! It was about 2 grand more expensive than the one in tollcross though :)

  • Author

It's not all that difficult as it sounds. I suspect the garage is either using the incorrect type of sealant or applied it incorrectly (not smoothed it out). See

He used a silicone sealant.

Excellent video but still beyond my capabilities :giggle: .

I've got to sort this problem out on mine, but surely by leaving the exisiting foam seal in the door and simply sealing over the top, this would make the door rot out eventually. I intend to remove this and reseal it properly with something. Trouble is I'm having a right old game trying to get the door trim panel off the door at the top! Feels like it's going to tear.

Wee Bri...i can understand your frustration...

Seriously mate...DIY with some roof and gutter sealant (IMHO the best stuff)....

I followed this video....

Piece of p!ss mate....seriously i was nervous at first but the satisfaction i got from doing it myself and knowing it was fixed was priceless...

Oh and I'm a pen pusher too!!!!!!!!!

Edited by Beancounter1980

Trouble is I'm having a right old game trying to get the door trim panel off the door at the top! Feels like it's going to tear.

I'm still not sure how it's supposed to come off at the top on the rear doors. Fronts are a doddle. I wonder if you have to remove the plastic trim between the panel and the window first, or if it just needs a firm upwards pull/push? I just did as shown in the Youtube video and worked under the panel hinged off the top of the door. Used roof and gutter sealant, nice night of rain and seals dry as a bone this morning. Hoping the car eventually dries out fully now, will keep it on full heat directed to footwells and open the windows for a while. Unfortunately I had to disturb the carriers in order to fix the central locking actuator earlier, didn't seem like I broke any seal but will keep my eagle eye out for any sign of wetness on the seal.

Piece of p!ss mate....seriously i was nervous at first but the satisfaction i got from doing it myself and knowing it was fixed was priceless...

And the satisfaction of having not paid a garage however much an hour to do a half-assed job. Now I've had some practice at undoing the rear door panels so they hinge at the top I reckon I could do 2 rear doors in an hour easily.

Edited by anewman

You do not need to fully remove the door cards in order to fix the seal. There is also no need to remove the old seal. Do NOT use a silicone based sealant, as the area will not be dry enough to seal it properly. Use the roof and gutter sealant, doesn't even need to be dry, and doesn't matter if it rains afterwards, it's designed for to be like that.

Just give it a go yourself, you'll probably find you'll do a better job of it than the garage, or someone on here may help you do it, I've been lucky enough to have two people help me with mine (as I am completely incompetent!) and I have to say, it was worth every mile I had to travel to get it done!

fully dry in around 18-24 hours

but it doesnt matter as you just plonk the rear door cover back on so you can't touch it as it drys

really good stuff

if garages have tried twice they must be micky mouse numptys

did you just seal over the black foam seal? the door carrier is on with rivets so cant remove it.

  • Author

Thanks for the input chaps :thumbup: .

I'll buy some roof & gutter sealant (any recommendations?) and take it back to the second garage as they've 60 sheets from me (1.5hrs labour) for work that didn't solve the problem - least they can do is have another bash at it (don't think that'll be a problem - they're well recommended on scottishvag.com and were pleasant to deal with).

  • Author

They'll need to remove the old sealant properly first which takes longer than applying the new one. I used this http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants/Sealants/Roof+Gutter+Sealant+300+ml/d180/sd2350/p11002 although the actual product I received was different. Only had a day or two but bone dry so far, hopefully it will last a long while.

He did say to me he was going to remove the old sealant - looks like he'll have to do it again - I'll see how that goes down! Not too bothered about the money; just want it fixed :'( .

It doesn't matter if you re assemble the door with the gutter sealant still wet.

It does it's job even before its cured, wouldn't be much use as gutter sealant otherwise. ;)

well well well :( i thought my 'last of the line' model wouldnt have this problem 'oh its only 3 years old' i said.....this morning however...i discover water running in over both plastic trims in the rear.......not loads but a few drops so looks like i better get myself some roof and gutter sealant aswell :) never mind :)

well well well :( i thought my 'last of the line' model wouldnt have this problem 'oh its only 3 years old' i said.....this morning however...i discover water running in over both plastic trims in the rear.......not loads but a few drops so looks like i better get myself some roof and gutter sealant aswell :) never mind :)

The plastic trims outside the rubber seal (if fitted) are okay if they get wet as they're in the drain path. If the rubber seal gets wet that's the problem revealing itself.

well well well :( i thought my 'last of the line' model wouldnt have this problem 'oh its only 3 years old' i said.....this morning however...i discover water running in over both plastic trims in the rear.......not loads but a few drops so looks like i better get myself some roof and gutter sealant aswell :) never mind :)

Get a few clips too while you're at it, you're bound to break some.

When I did my rear doors I broke 7 out of 14 removing the trim.

The original clips had become very brittle over time.

yes mate its water ontop of the rubber seal :( bad times indeed......ah id better go to skoda for those then had i?

  • Author

This is men in white coats stuff...

I dreamt last night that I checked my rear door and there was no water on the seal. It was raining last night (heavy enough to wake me up at one point as it was battering off the window) - anyway, got up this morning to check how bad it was - opened the door and it was totally dry! Still not sure it'll be up to a sustained heavy downpour so I'll keep an eye on it - obviously can't go back to the second garage until there's definitely water on the seal. Whatever the case at least it's not as bad as before - never had a wet rear footwell till the first garage had a bodged attempt at it (need to get that dried out).

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