Anyone found a supplier of LED bulbs for numberplate that really don't bring on can errors? I tried the ones from all the main suppliers but ended up sending them back. Just wonder if there's any new ones on market? Ta

I've got these on my pre FL (with canbus):

http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-II/Octavia-II-04-08-MEGA-POWER-LED-bulb-set-for-licence-plate-light

No probs.

Is there a difference on the FL?

Yer seen those but it states before FL so must be something.

Doh! Sorry!!

Anyone found a supplier of LED bulbs for numberplate that really don't bring on can errors? I tried the ones from all the main suppliers but ended up sending them back. Just wonder if there's any new ones on market? Ta

Unfortunally even with can-bus you need to put a resister on one only.

Try this

One can-bus + one normal ??? Does it show error??

Change the can-bus bulb and do the same, does show error???

2 Can-bus shows.???

I put one resister only on 1 bulb, see my foto

Unfortunally even with can-bus you need to put a resister on one only.

Try this

One can-bus + one normal ??? Does it show error??

Change the can-bus bulb and do the same, does show error???

2 Can-bus shows.???

I put one resister only on 1 bulb, see my foto

Could you provide more details on what type of lamps and what resister you used?

I tried several kinds of lamps (all of them from e-bay) and none of them solved the error problem on the vRS FL...

Edited 22 April, 201115 yr by Jetstream62

Could you provide more details on what type of lamps and what resister you used?

I tried several kinds of lamps (all of them from e-bay) and none of them solved the error problem on the vRS FL...

These work perfectly, providing you add a resistor (or as I did an additional OE w5w bulb) to the numberplate light loom (inside the boot)

These work perfectly, providing you add a resistor (or as I did an additional OE w5w bulb) to the numberplate light loom (inside the boot)

Dragging up an old thread.

Still seeking some working LED numberplate lights for my FL Octy.

You mention adding an additional bulb to the light loom.

Really I'm not mechnical - any chance you could post some pictures and tell us which parts you used and where you got them?

Thanks.

I don't have photo's, but all you need is a bulb hoder & wiring loom I used a std w5w one like:

Then simply remove the numberplate light in the car, add one of the above holders to the existing loom on the car, add a bulb and then cable tie it out of the way.

The OE loom is not very long so I found it easier to remove the tailgate trim to solder the additional light into place, if you are happy using scotchlocks

(personally I am not) then you can just about do it without removing the trim.

Scratching my head on this one.

I have to ask this question!

Why? What is the point?

I can half understand why you may want to switch tail lights to LED - for aesthetics, sharper on/off, longer life. But the number plate lamp? Why bother with all this hassle for a lamp that is out of sight? And solve the can-bus error problem by adding an out-of-sight bulb that can still go pop and remove any benefit of longer life.

Scratching my head on this one.

I have to ask this question!

Why? What is the point?

I can half understand why you may want to switch tail lights to LED - for aesthetics,

For exactly the reason you have said - aesthetics, you may not be able to see the bulb itself but you can see the light it emits.

For exactly the reason you have said - aesthetics, you may not be able to see the bulb itself but you can see the light it emits.

Thanks for that - beginning to think I'd missed something.

There really is that much difference? I'm amazed!

Each to his own! Good luck finding the solution.

Now I'll probably run into the back of someone while trying to work out whether the number plate is illuminated by LED or filament Ah! but I'll have to turn my headlights off first

Thanks for that - beginning to think I'd missed something.

There really is that much difference? I'm amazed!

Each to his own! Good luck finding the solution.

Now I'll probably run into the back of someone while trying to work out whether the number plate is illuminated by LED or filament Ah! but I'll have to turn my headlights off first

The difference is very obvious.

With the LED lights you have two white "curtains" of light coming down over the plate.

It's really obvious where LED's are used.

You can tell the difference. I would like to use them, but can't be bothered with the amount of work really.

If you look at the back of current generation 3-Series and 1-Series as common examples, you can tell a mile off. Same with current Lexus models.

As an example on a 3-Series (pretty sure those are actually uprated LED bulbs as the spread is wider than standard, but you get the picture):

You can tell the difference. I would like to use them, but can't be bothered with the amount of work really.

If you look at the back of current generation 3-Series and 1-Series as common examples, you can tell a mile off. Same with current Lexus models.

As an example on a 3-Series (pretty sure those are actually uprated LED bulbs as the spread is wider than standard, but you get the picture):

Wardy, they will go on your model with little difficulty, I bought ones from Ebay for my TDI Elegance and had no problems!

Hay - I've dragged this thread up twice now.

I promise this will be the last time, OK, I wont promise, but I'll try my very best.

I see there is a way around it if you add a bulb to the wiring loom - nice fix, but all a little bit "pain in the backside".

A lot easier I feel to simply run a resistor along the length of the LED module - would be a lot neater etc.

So question - what resistor do I require?

What resistor will "mimic" there being a standard bulb in those units and not give me an error message.

Answers on a postcard, or much preferred, below

I tried various resisters with no luck.

You could try a 5W resistor of around 30 ohms (R = V²/W or 12X12/5). Or just use the old bulb - same thing.

Hay - I've dragged this thread up twice now.

I promise this will be the last time, OK, I wont promise, but I'll try my very best.

I see there is a way around it if you add a bulb to the wiring loom - nice fix, but all a little bit "pain in the backside".

A lot easier I feel to simply run a resistor along the length of the LED module - would be a lot neater etc.

So question - what resistor do I require?

What resistor will "mimic" there being a standard bulb in those units and not give me an error message.

Answers on a postcard, or much preferred, below

I Have 2 canbus 36mm with 3 leds each bulb and only one resister conected on one bulb( either one will do).

The resisters look like these, This has worked for me almost a year now.

http://www.autoledshop.com/enlarge.php?topid=1000&cid=666&pid=165

Edited 14 June, 201115 yr by alberg

I Have 2 canbus 36mm with 3 leds each bulb and only one resister conected on one bulb( either one will do).

The resisters look like these, This has worked for me almost a year now.

http://www.autoledshop.com/enlarge.php?topid=1000&cid=666&pid=165

Hi there,

Thanks for your post.

So just to confirm - this is on a facelift Octavia?

So in theory I can buy the 2x LED festoon's and fit the resister you linked to on just ONE of the bulbs and it should work?

Thanks.

Hi there,

Thanks for your post.

So just to confirm - this is on a facelift Octavia?

So in theory I can buy the 2x LED festoon's and fit the resister you linked to on just ONE of the bulbs and it should work?

Thanks.

My is a facelift Octavia ( 06/2010).

The resister I linked is very similar to mine ( 5w watt load).

And another thing, DONNOT buy canbus bulbst have the heat dissipater in the back, they will get really hot.

Ok for the interior because they are only on for a short period of time.

These seem ok, they say SMT( no need of heat dissipater)

http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/37mm-leds-festoon-output-cool-white-p-1496.html

Edited 15 June, 201115 yr by alberg

Using a halogen bulb in parallel like posted earlier is what I have done in DRL.

Edited 15 June, 201115 yr by alberg

You could try a 5W resistor of around 30 ohms (R = V²/W or 12X12/5). Or just use the old bulb - same thing.

I'm sure you dont need to use such a high power. My guess is that a 82 ohm 2W or even 150 ohm 1W resistor will work fine, and it will generate MUCH less heat. and you can solder it easily across the back of the bulb holder.

Edited 28 July, 201213 yr by john.errington

My is a facelift Octavia ( 06/2010).

The resister I linked is very similar to mine ( 5w watt load).

And another thing, DONNOT buy canbus bulbst have the heat dissipater in the back, they will get really hot.

Ok for the interior because they are only on for a short period of time.

These seem ok, they say SMT( no need of heat dissipater)

http://www.ultraleds...ite-p-1496.html

Totally agree with you on this. I have tried so many of the "CANBUS LED's" from China and each has failed in no time with overheating, mainly because of the CANBUS Resistors placed in very close proximity to the LED, infact just behind. Moreover, the colour emitted by most (99%) of these LED's is the "Pure White", which is actually slightly Blue (6000K). Fed up with these issues, I now have assembled my own LED lights by using the 5050 SMD's with emitted colour "Warm White", which are true White (around 4300K). With a lot of patience, I was able to assemble manually a 2x 23 SMD T10 for my Parking lights and 2x 8 SMD Strips for my Number plates. And ofcourse, had to use an external 5W Resistor placed away from the LED's, on the wiring to sort the CANBUS issue. The Lights have been in place for almost 3 months now with absolutely no issue whatsoever, touch wood. I paid less than $9 for a strip of 100 5050 SMD's while I used to pay the same amout for just 2 pieces of worthless 3 SMD LED lights that I used to order online.

...With a lot of patience, I was able to assemble manually a 2x 23 SMD T10 for my Parking lights and 2x 8 SMD Strips for my Number plates.

And of course, had to use an external 5W Resistor placed away from the LED's, on the wiring to sort the CANBUS issue.

Any chance of pics to show us what you did? I've got 5 * 5050 T10's in both upper and lower holes for rear parking lights and they're much better than bulbs.