Just a basic outline please. H4, H7...???? Auto Express has tested them on several occasions and come up with winners and losers but is there a major advantage of changing the brand new bulbs already fitted? Are they really better than OEM?... and what are the different sorts of replacement bulb? This relates to an SE specifically but I imagine it doesn't make any difference what make of car, provided they don't have Xenons (and I don't really know much about them either, except everyone here raves about them when they're working correctly). Do replacements last as long as standard bulbs? I've not had to change a headlamp bulb in donkeys years, in fact I can't even remember doing one at all - ever!

Thanks, as always. Stan.

Edited 11 December, 201015 yr by oldstan

Just a basic outline please. H4, H7...???? Auto Express has tested them on several occasions and come up with winners and losers but is their a major advantage of changing the brand new bulbs already fitted? Are they really better than OEM?... and what are the different sorts of replacement bulb? This relates to an SE specifically but I imagine it doesn't make any difference what make of car, provided they don't have Xenons (and I don't really know much about them either, except everyone here raves about them when they're working correctly). Do replacements last as long as standard bulbs? I've not had to change a headlamp bulb in donkeys years, in fact I can't even remember doing one at all - ever!

Thanks, as always. Stan.

I've always upgraded my bulbs with Philips extreme vision 100% or the previous 90% version. always greater light output.

Problem with Yeti is dealer having to change bulb on halogen equipped models for the first time as they are sealed. there are several threads on this subject.

Mike

Hi, just a quick question, are those brighter white bulbs legal? I wanted to change mine and ideally I would like the whiter ones (going to change the sidelight as well, I think there are quick good Philips sets on ebay).

To make the whole package complete I am also thinking about changing the DRL to white bulbs - they are available but extremely expensive (I think my research came up to show that they share the same type as the Chevy Camaro and came at around $100 a set??), furthermore they are not the same as the Superb's DRL....

Would appreciate any views on the legal issues of whiter bulbs and the sourcing for DRLs.

Many Thanks!!

Hi, just a quick question, are those brighter white bulbs legal? I wanted to change mine and ideally I would like the whiter ones (going to change the sidelight as well, I think there are quick good Philips sets on ebay).

To make the whole package complete I am also thinking about changing the DRL to white bulbs - they are available but extremely expensive (I think my research came up to show that they share the same type as the Chevy Camaro and came at around $100 a set??), furthermore they are not the same as the Superb's DRL....

Would appreciate any views on the legal issues of whiter bulbs and the sourcing for DRLs.

Many Thanks!!

The brighter bulbs are legal as they are still only using the 55/60W, just run brighter. There is no limit that I'm aware on brightness, just wattage.

I know what you mean about having 'whiter' DRL's and side lights. Whilst you are at it, I have changed my boot light and now want some whiter light for the interior lights!

Mike

BTW brighter lights don't necessarily mean whiter light, quite often the 'white or blue' ones are only the same brightness as standard halogens, or only slightly brighter.

Mike

Ah right, thanks for the help. I had whiter bulbs on my old car and it actually felt darker as you said...

White side lights and white DRLs would look nice, but I have not been able to find replacement DRLs? I have been able to find some side lights, I don't have my manual with me, so I am not sure, but Ebay shops normally sell the H4 with the side lights as a package, anyway those side light are normally less than £3 for the pair.

With regards to the interior light, again no manual at hand, so can't help I am afriad, but I guess you are looking for the white LEDs?

I would actually recommend against them unless you really want them, I had a 6X3 (18) LED in my old car and it looked a little naff. However it might look quite good if you add footwell lights...

Anyway, links to some interior bulbs: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-Car-Interior-Dome-16-SMD-LED-Festoon-Bulb-Light-39mm-/250737063653?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6117f6e5

As far as I can remeber these fit the back interior light, but the front domes uses something different - sorry can't help, no manual!

Just a basic outline please. H4, H7...???? Auto Express has tested them on several occasions and come up with winners and losers but is there a major advantage of changing the brand new bulbs already fitted? Are they really better than OEM?... and what are the different sorts of replacement bulb? This relates to an SE specifically but I imagine it doesn't make any difference what make of car, provided they don't have Xenons (and I don't really know much about them either, except everyone here raves about them when they're working correctly). Do replacements last as long as standard bulbs? I've not had to change a headlamp bulb in donkeys years, in fact I can't even remember doing one at all - ever!

Thanks, as always. Stan.

H4 H7 refer to the type of bulb and fixing. H4 is a twin filament headlamp bulb H7 is a single filament bulb that the Yeti uses in the foglights.

Yes they are worth changing. Osram and Philips do a +100% (100% brighter than a normal bulb!!?!), the Osram version can be bought as a long life bulb for about £3 more. The 55/60W is the only legal criteria and all the uprated bulbs are available at this wattage.

I believe that the halogen lights give a better control of the "scatter" than the Xenon. The bulbs are easy to source and relatively easy to replace (if you have small hands)

Now wait for the flak from the Xenon users.

Previous thread: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/156299-dlrs/page__st__80

As far as I'm aware it's only the indicator bulbs at the front that are sealed, you can change the rest but from recollection space is limited.

Remove cover 1 for combined dipped/main beam bulb H4 and parking light W5W.

Remove cover 3 for fog light H7.

H4 bulb in position, parking light just below.

H7 fog light bulb in position

For the indicator you need to remove the bumper and headlight

Break off (carefully) cover 1 to expose bulb in position 2.

Replace cover with that supplied with Skoda indicator bulb kit.

Hope that's of help,

TP

Video with the LED DRL on Camaro

Don't think I can add much to this, other than I'm another using the Osram Nightbreaker Plus H4 bulbs and am very pleased with them. Changed them just before the weather broke, and they took about 15 minutes to change. Drivers side is easy, but passenger side is a bit tighter. Small hands would be helpful!

They are totally legal, so there is no worries there!

I'm still trying to work out a way of fitting a set of 6" Hella Driving lights to the front. There is a nice useful hole either side on the slam panel that could be used to bolt a bracket, but I haven't been able to work out the shape to bring it out of the grille yet. It might have to wait until the spring!

The interior lights over the dash appear to be standard push fit bulbs like side lights. I've got the instructions on what needs pulling apart to get to them, but...................................... Didn't realise the rear ones were like that, as I've got a few LED ones of those in the shed.

I've fitted 2 motorbike LED DRL's in the boot, with the wiring piggybacked off the standard boot light. Seems to work quite well.

Has anyone found that with replacing bulbs with LED's the "bulb warning" has activated?

Thanks for replies - much appreciated. Is it thought that the replacements last as long as originals? Seem to recall something about them failing much more often?

I have big hands so maybe better for Halfords or dealer to fit?

Thanks.

Stan,

the early hi-power bulbs did seem to go earlier, but it seems to have got better now. Certainly the Osram Nightbreaker Plus say they are "long life". We shall see. I would have a go and try changing them yourself; it isn't that bad.

Stan,

the early hi-power bulbs did seem to go earlier, but it seems to have got better now. Certainly the Osram Nightbreaker Plus say they are "long life". We shall see. I would have a go and try changing them yourself; it isn't that bad.

All rcvd. with thanks. Will copy these details for use when the time comes. Time now to light my way up the wooden hill using lo-tech landing lights. Thank you all again.

Problem with Yeti is dealer having to change bulb on halogen equipped models for the first time as they are sealed. there are several threads on this subject.

Mike

It's only the front turn indicator bulbs that need dealer attaention. The rest are fairly easily accessible, but a little fidgety to replace.

I'm still trying to work out a way of fitting a set of 6" Hella Driving lights to the front. There is a nice useful hole either side on the slam panel that could be used to bolt a bracket, but I haven't been able to work out the shape to bring it out of the grille yet. It might have to wait until the spring!

Graham,

Can you be a bit more specific with where you think the brackets could be mounted? I am not sure what you mean by slam panels? It seems like there is some solid metal behind the grille, but I am not too keen on taking the whole front bumperoff - yet!

Graham,

Can you be a bit more specific with where you think the brackets could be mounted? I am not sure what you mean by slam panels? It seems like there is some solid metal behind the grille, but I am not too keen on taking the whole front bumperoff - yet!

Think Graham is refering to the screw head that's visible in the 'fake' grill at either corner of the lower front bumper :wonder:

Edit item number 6 below;

TP

Edited 12 December, 201015 yr by The Plumber

Think Graham is refering to the screw head that's visible in the 'fake' grill at either corner of the lower front bumper

Edit item number 6 below;

TP

TP - wherever do you get all these wonderful pics from? But thanks anyway, the information is superb.

Agerbundsen,

I am talking about the horizontal panel inside the bonnet where the locking mechanism is, above the grille. There are 2 holes covered with a circle of black tape, that I think could be used. However the brackets would need to be very slim!

TP,

I'm still trying to work out where those screws/bolts (no6) are!

Agerbundsen posted a link a while ago to a "bull bar" type thing that mounted on brackets behind the number plate, but I emailed them for further details and they didn't reply. I think they must have used rivnuts mounted into the behind bumper bar. That would work, but it would also mean drilling the bumper first, and would need another way to mount the front number plate.

It's only the front turn indicator bulbs that need dealer attention. The rest are fairly easily accessible, but a little fidgety to replace.

A masterpiece of understatement if your hands are large and your back stiff!

(O.K. so I'm not as young as I would like to be.)

I'm still trying to work out where those screws/bolts (no6) are!

The # 6 bolts are actually in the black outside grills in the middle vertically and inboard horiziontally.

The two circular black rubber tapes are the targets for the rubber bumpers munted on the bonnet, so that's not going to work. Look at the circles, then look up insinside the open bonnet and you will see what I mean.

The steel stamping that serves as a beam across the front with the latching mechanism in it seem to be the only steel member in that area. Beneath it is a black plastic U-shape, and right below that the three heat exchangers. There are perfprations in the sheet metal under the stick-on plastic CYA notices, which might line up with the gaps in the top grille. One might be able to reinforce the sheetmetal on top without interfering with the bonnet closing.

Edited 17 December, 201015 yr by Agerbundsen

Don't think I can add much to this, other than I'm another using the Osram Nightbreaker Plus H4 bulbs and am very pleased with them. Changed them just before the weather broke, and they took about 15 minutes to change. Drivers side is easy, but passenger side is a bit tighter. Small hands would be helpful!

They are totally legal, so there is no worries there!

I'm still trying to work out a way of fitting a set of 6" Hella Driving lights to the front. There is a nice useful hole either side on the slam panel that could be used to bolt a bracket, but I haven't been able to work out the shape to bring it out of the grille yet. It might have to wait until the spring!

The interior lights over the dash appear to be standard push fit bulbs like side lights. I've got the instructions on what needs pulling apart to get to them, but...................................... Didn't realise the rear ones were like that, as I've got a few LED ones of those in the shed.

I've fitted 2 motorbike LED DRL's in the boot, with the wiring piggybacked off the standard boot light. Seems to work quite well.

Has anyone found that with replacing bulbs with LED's the "bulb warning" has activated?

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I was hoping you might share your information on fitting the interior lights above the dash. I don't want to risk doing any damage.

Thanks