Hi, on the passenger front door, I can unlock it, but it will not respond to locking, only if I lock the drivers side then it will lock.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Is there a diagram or photo, that will give me some idea of the fault?

Is there a diagram or photo, that will give me some idea of the fault?

Is it remote locking or manual locking?

Alex

Are you locking it with key or the button inside. Whichever it is try the other just once. I've had a similar problem if I've locked/unlocked it when the battery's been off and doing that has always fixed it.

Is it remote locking or manual locking?

Alex

Manual - thanks

Apart from the central locking system getting confused as mentioned above, there's a couple of possible failures depending on what exactly the symptoms are. By 'respond to locking' do you mean the passenger door will a) physically not lock from the inside/outside/both, or b) it will lock but not trigger the other doors to do so. If it's the latter then chances are you'll need a new locking motor as the integral switch has failed (but check the wiring connections first, just to make sure).

If however it's the former then it's probably a mechanical issue. Typically the linkage between the external lock cylinder and the door lock mechanism is most likely to fall apart. If it's only locking with the key from the outside that doesn't work then this is almost certainly the problem and you may well soon not be able to unlock it from that side either. If the key turns further than it should in either direction it would point to this.

A less likely possibility is that the mechanism itself is jamming up and needs cleaning and lubricating - this should be apparent if the motor sounds to be struggling a bit on locking, and takes longer to lock than the other doors (one of my back doors does this occasionally when it's cold and wet - unlocking is fine though).

Edited 19 December, 201015 yr by RobinSLXi

Are you locking it with key or the button inside. Whichever it is try the other just once. I've had a similar problem if I've locked/unlocked it when the battery's been off and doing that has always fixed it.

Shall check in the morning ta.

Apart from the central locking system getting confused as mentioned above, there's a couple of possible failures depending on what exactly the symptoms are. By 'respond to locking' do you mean the passenger door will a) physically not lock from the inside/outside/both, or b) it will lock but not trigger the other doors to do so. If it's the latter then chances are you'll need a new locking motor as the integral switch has failed (but check the wiring connections first, just to make sure).

If however it's the former then it's probably a mechanical issue. Typically the linkage between the external lock cylinder and the door lock mechanism is most likely to fall apart. If it's only locking with the key from the outside that doesn't work then this is almost certainly the problem and you may well soon not be able to unlock it from that side either. If the key turns further than it should in either direction it would point to this.

A less likely possibility is that the mechanism itself is jamming up and needs cleaning and lubricating - this should be apparent if the motor sounds to be struggling a bit on locking, and takes longer to lock than the other doors (one of my back doors does this occasionally when it's cold and wet - unlocking is fine though).

Tried disconnecting the battery, but still the problem presist, it just on the passenger side using the key for locking all doors, both doors will lock from the drivers side using the key

I wonder in a remote central locking kit available?

Thanks in advance

Well, if pushing the button down from the inside operates the central locking correctly, that rules out failure of the switch. As for the mechanism, I don't know of a diagram but the picture from the parts catalogue at least shows what's in there and gives a rough idea of how it's connected. Sounds like it may be time to get the door panel off and have a poke around in there.

There is/was a remote locking upgrade available as an accessory kit from Skoda. I have a price in my head of about £70 but I now have no idea where I got that figure from, so please don't hold me to it! I managed to snag one on ebay for an awful lot less than that, and to be fair the only major difference from a generic £25 aftermarket kit is that it comes with a little ready-made loom and all the proper crimped connectors so there's no cutting or splicing involved. Luckily some helpful chap has written this thread all about it.

Well, if pushing the button down from the inside operates the central locking correctly, that rules out failure of the switch. As for the mechanism, I don't know of a diagram but the picture from the parts catalogue at least shows what's in there and gives a rough idea of how it's connected. Sounds like it may be time to get the door panel off and have a poke around in there.

There is/was a remote locking upgrade available as an accessory kit from Skoda. I have a price in my head of about £70 but I now have no idea where I got that figure from, so please don't hold me to it! I managed to snag one on ebay for an awful lot less than that, and to be fair the only major difference from a generic £25 aftermarket kit is that it comes with a little ready-made loom and all the proper crimped connectors so there's no cutting or splicing involved. Luckily some helpful chap has written this thread all about it.

Thanks for the reply, I wait for the warmer weather, before I "poke" about

Well, if pushing the button down from the inside operates the central locking correctly, that rules out failure of the switch. As for the mechanism, I don't know of a diagram but the picture from the parts catalogue at least shows what's in there and gives a rough idea of how it's connected. Sounds like it may be time to get the door panel off and have a poke around in there.

There is/was a remote locking upgrade available as an accessory kit from Skoda. I have a price in my head of about £70 but I now have no idea where I got that figure from, so please don't hold me to it! I managed to snag one on ebay for an awful lot less than that, and to be fair the only major difference from a generic £25 aftermarket kit is that it comes with a little ready-made loom and all the proper crimped connectors so there's no cutting or splicing involved. Luckily some helpful chap has written this thread all about it.

Thanks for the reply, I wait for the warmer weather, before I "poke" about lol

i have the same problem with my skoda felicia slxi 1600 R Plate, it was running fine i pulled over turnt engine off for no more than 2 mins when i went to start it was just turning and not firing to start, i managed to get it parked up couldnt start it so left it over night, i went back in the morning battery was dead,i got someone to try and jumpstart the engine it wouldnt start so i left it there went back in the evening and the doors were all dead locked apart from teh boot lock im going to stick it the battery on charge tonight give it a full charge if any one else has any info that can help me i would be very greatful thank you

it could be a coil thats gone try and see if you have a spark

door locks are the same on my car a little bit of metal snaps got the bits from other locks but i wen't for a alarm with remote centrel locking and i like the door locks not working not got to worry about someone trying to break in going to remove them when i get car sprayed

someone else metioned the coil, also 2 people have said it could be the altenator, a neighbour got me a bit worried said it is the cam belt and the engine will be ruined, i wont know anything till tomorrow when battery has finished, doors are proper deadlocked i mean that you get full resistence when you turn the key it will snap, im hoping that the battery will maybe reset the codes is there a skoda parts site in uk that sends parts out quick i heard the coil is around £35?

your door locks may need a bit off lubeing up may be

i can get you a used but good coil if its your coil thats gone

if the alternator has gone it would still start

could be the distributor hall sensor

try the basics 1st see if you have spak fuses to engine

if i was near i would help ya get it up and running as i have vag com

thanks uma i will give that a try in a couple of hours heading up to the car after a cupa rosy, i really hope that it is nothing to serious, i will let you know later what the outcome is , if i need a coil how do i purchase? are you a trader?

well i put battery in it all lit up still same just turning over, i did manage to get the doors open though just by gently massaging the buttons on all doors it eventually opened up properly, im not mechanically gifted so not sure how to take the spark plugs outand see if i got a spark, if the battery has been out for 24 hours does that mean that i have to reset the codes? if so where would i get this done in bognor regis ? or is there a website you can direct me to ? thanks

The only possible re-programming I'm aware of would be the central locking and entering any stereo code.

tHE BATTERY WAS OUT FOR 24 HOURS SO ITS NOT THE FACTORY STEREO BUT THERE IS AN IMMOBILIZER , ,,

you will have no problems just connect battery immobilizer is in the ecu did the fuel pump make a niose

no i didnt hear fuel pump i got a mechanic coming over this afternoon, he will do a diognostics will post later to tell you the outcome , is there a contact number for you at all or can i post a message privatley? in case i have a problem locating parts?

I had the same lock problem on the passenger door of my 1999 Felicia L 1.3mpi - but the locks are completely manual - no central locking at all.

EDIT: Re-reading your post I've just realised your locking is central, but when you said manual, you meant you had to use the key in the lock to unlock/lock, rather than a plip.

But anyway I'll leave this post in case someone else has the same problem!

I took the lock barrel out and after some careful examination I discovered that a tiny piece of metal had broken off the end of the barrel. This stops the key turning round too far and enables the lock to operate when turned with the key. There are two of these lugs - one for each direction. My guess is someone over-turned the lock or tried to force it with a screwdriver. Or it was just cr*p in the first place; it's only alloy so quite brittle!

Very luckily, this little piece of metal is on a separate part of the lock barrel and held on with a small external circlip. So I went to a scrappy and found a car with the same lock design - there was a change around 1998/9 from pointy key to flat square key - and removed a lock barrel from the same side of the car - I think they are handed.

With circlip pliers I was able to remove the intact part from the donor lock and put it on to my own door lock. Result: no need to buy a new lock barrel or add yet another key to the car's collection - mine's already got two as it must have had a new ignition lock at some point.

Hope this works for you - if you need any tips on getting the lock out just let me know. It's fiddly, but quite doable.

P.

Edited 29 October, 201213 yr by feliciaman

yep it was the coil that was gone completley burnt out hopefully this time tomorrow i will be out and about in car again fingers crossed

I had the same lock problem on the passenger door of my 1999 Felicia L 1.3mpi - but the locks are completely manual - no central locking at all.

EDIT: Re-reading your post I've just realised your locking is central, but when you said manual, you meant you had to use the key in the lock to unlock/lock, rather than a plip.

But anyway I'll leave this post in case someone else has the same problem!

I took the lock barrel out and after some careful examination I discovered that a tiny piece of metal had broken off the end of the barrel. This stops the key turning round too far and enables the lock to operate when turned with the key. There are two of these lugs - one for each direction. My guess is someone over-turned the lock or tried to force it with a screwdriver. Or it was just cr*p in the first place; it's only alloy so quite brittle!

Very luckily, this little piece of metal is on a separate part of the lock barrel and held on with a small external circlip. So I went to a scrappy and found a car with the same lock design - there was a change around 1998/9 from pointy key to flat square key - and removed a lock barrel from the same side of the car - I think they are handed.

With circlip pliers I was able to remove the intact part from the donor lock and put it on to my own door lock. Result: no need to buy a new lock barrel or add yet another key to the car's collection - mine's already got two as it must have had a new ignition lock at some point.

Hope this works for you - if you need any tips on getting the lock out just let me know. It's fiddly, but quite doable.

P.

I replaced a whole barrel as someone had punched the original in attempting to steal the truck. New lock, matched to the existing key: £18.75 from Skoda dealer. :)