Hey, I've got a 54 plate Fabia, VRS, with engine code ASV..

What size in dimensions is the battery please? I know the BLT's had a smaller battery.

Reason I'm asking is I'm planning a battery to boot swap, and I've seen a nice tray.... here.

Also

What would happen if I disconnect my battery for an hour while performing the swap? Would the ECU not like it, and lose all information about central locking fobs etc

Cant say what size, although i just used the finder thingy in halfords. Swapping it is not a issue, only thing it`ll do is mean you have to reset the electric windows.

I must be missing the point on the actual part tho, its pointless no? cant see it when its fitted can you?!

Matt

I dont think you can use that battery tray anyway.

The OEM one is welded to the car, and the main fuses are fitted to the top of the battery which would mean the strap will not hold the battery in place. Why you would need a battery tray that allows you to easily remove the battery, when the current one has been in the car 6 years I dont know.

Hey, I've got a 54 plate Fabia, VRS, with engine code ASV..

I think you mean ASZ...

What size in dimensions is the battery please? I know the BLT's had a smaller battery.

Approx 278x175x175/190mm - the height given for replacement batteries seems to vary...

Reason I'm asking is I'm planning a battery to boot swap, and I've seen a nice tray.... here.

So they're all smaller than the original battery...

What would happen if I disconnect my battery for an hour while performing the swap? Would the ECU not like it, and lose all information about central locking fobs etc

It might make it easier for people to reply if you said why you want to do this in the first place (i.e. moving the battery to the boot) - and why it would take so long. You're going to have to run new wiring through the car, so why not put that all in place first and then it will only take 5 mins to swap won't it?

I think you mean ASZ...

Approx 278x175x175/190mm - the height given for replacement batteries seems to vary...

So they're all smaller than the original battery...

It might make it easier for people to reply if you said why you want to do this in the first place (i.e. moving the battery to the boot) - and why it would take so long. You're going to have to run new wiring through the car, so why not put that all in place first and then it will only take 5 mins to swap won't it?

Wiring's in place for a battery too boot, so I'm gonna be making the swap soon. It hopefully won't take over 5 minutes, but you never know......

Thanks for the advice.

Is the size of the battery definitely 278?

He can supply a 072: 177 x 270mm tray........

If the wiring is there, surely you just need the new battery, bung it in, fix it down (Legal requirement), Connect that end, protecting the engine end, Whip off the old one, make the new connections. Power should only be off for a min, two at worse!

(At this point, youwill know if you did a good job or failed spectacularly)!

Is the size of the battery definitely 278?

He can supply a 072: 177 x 270mm tray........

I replaced mine (04 plate vRS) a couple of weeks ago. Battery size is 278mm long, 175mm wide and 190mm high. That's a 74AH rated battery as specified for the pre-BLT vRS.

Paul.

What size in dimensions is the battery please?

And any reason you can't measure yours?

Maybe I've flipped my lid, but, if you are going to all this trouble should the outline of the original battery bother you? Surely after spending what must have been a lot of time and money, the extra cost of a suitable new battery is not beyond your wallet - if so maybe forget the whole thing. Remember it is only the original battery "key electrical parameters" that should concern you and not its shape. I'd also reckon that if you are doing this then the least you should know about/understand is that the three digit numbers quoted by the seller will end up being industry standard case sizes - and if you look on some battery web-sites you should be able to tie in available case sizes with your car's electrical requirements.

And any reason you can't measure yours?

I'm quite ill at the minute, not really been out the house for the pat week..

Maybe I've flipped my lid, but, if you are going to all this trouble should the outline of the original battery bother you? Surely after spending what must have been a lot of time and money, the extra cost of a suitable new battery is not beyond your wallet - if so maybe forget the whole thing. Remember it is only the original battery "key electrical parameters" that should concern you and not its shape. I'd also reckon that if you are doing this then the least you should know about/understand is that the three digit numbers quoted by the seller will end up being industry standard case sizes - and if you look on some battery web-sites you should be able to tie in available case sizes with your car's electrical requirements.

You've not flipped your lid, I'm just trying to keep it as cheap as possible, if possible using the origional battery.

The cablings there due to previous owner running 4gauge to the rear for ice, I'm trying to find a battery tray, so that I just fit it down, and use my battery from the front

Good luck - whatever your reasoning for doing this.

Nightmare!!

Stuck up North on Boxing Day, and seemingly nowhere to get a battery for my 53 2004 vRS until Weds (maybe)!

Thanks for the info in this thread, I now know which battery to get - 278mm by 175mm and height can be anywhere between 190 and 175mm. Power rating of between 70 and 75 ah.

Maybe Halfords will be open tomorrow.....

Good luck - whatever your reasoning for doing this.

I haven't got anything in the spare wheel well at the minute, so a battery in there would help support the false floor....

Also, weight distribution is marginally improved.

THe cabling's already there, so It's a pretty cheap mod really :-D

Glad the sizes helped with someone else!

Back on topic, I've found a 072 sized battery, however it is only 70ah.......Will this behave fine with my engine?

Hey, I've got a 54 plate Fabia, VRS, with engine code ASV..

What size in dimensions is the battery please? I know the BLT's had a smaller battery.

Reason I'm asking is I'm planning a battery to boot swap, and I've seen a nice tray.... here.

Also

What would happen if I disconnect my battery for an hour while performing the swap? Would the ECU not like it, and lose all information about central locking fobs etc

sorry posted in wrong place!

Edited 27 December, 201015 yr by AndyPandy

Whats the point of putting the battery in the Boot?

Advantages:-

1.More Room under bonnet

.Disadvantages:-

1.Because there is a distribution point still needed with heavy duty fuses fitted on top of the battery for a reason !

2.Voltage drop for Outgoing Items(Starter High Current !) + Alternator Output (remember the Alternator needs a SHORT 100 amp cable to properly charge battery!)

3.A lot of unnessary work!

4. Insurance Company will not cover you because you have modified the car!

5.Worst of All- Huge Risk of Car Fire !! Starter Cable is NOT FUSED !!

Didnt you get something for Christmas to Play With?

I haven't got anything in the spare wheel well at the minute, so a battery in there would help support the false floor....

So would a spare wheel - or a piece of wood...

Also, weight distribution is marginally improved.

Pretty marginal - and will it be effective? OK so an MX-5 has a battery in the boot to allegedly improve weight distribution - but that's a rear wheel drive car where it's possibly more of an issue...

THe cabling's already there, so It's a pretty cheap mod really :-D

Are you sure all the cabling's there? And to the right spec?

Back on topic, I've found a 072 sized battery, however it is only 70ah.......Will this behave fine with my engine?

The later vRS's have to make do with a 61Ah battery...

Whats the point of putting the battery in the Boot?

Advantages:-

1.More Room under bonnet

.Disadvantages:-

1.Because there is a distribution point still needed with heavy duty fuses fitted on top of the battery for a reason !

2.Voltage drop for Outgoing Items(Starter High Current !) + Alternator Output (remember the Alternator needs a SHORT 100 amp cable to properly charge battery!)

3.A lot of unnessary work!

4. Insurance Company will not cover you because you have modified the car!

5.Worst of All- Huge Risk of Car Fire !! Starter Cable is NOT FUSED !!

Didnt you get something for Christmas to Play With?

BMWs have batterys in the boot? So you're saying they shouldn't have the batterys in their boot?

Cablings there, 4g from a previous ICE install....

Once you've done it - and the car still works - we'll look forward to the photographic story!

Devonutopia's done it! Has his car blown up?

I will be doing it, but I can't afford a new size battery at the minute, I'm looking for a battery tray that'll fit mine..........

BMWs have batterys in the boot? So you're saying they shouldn't have the batterys in their boot?

Cablings there, 4g from a previous ICE install....

If done by BMW (in a rear engined car perhaps) or Formula One Racing car ,it will be done correctly !!.

Have you heard of voltage drops ,and why should be avoided if at all possible? The battery and Alternator are in an electronically closed loop at the front to work correctly. Cable copper sizes and lengths,together with the electronics inside the alternator are all part of that loop. The battery in the rear cannot be charged correctly ,or in the quickest time possible (needed after a few starts in Winter) unless the engineering is done first.I suggest moving the Alternator too the Boot as well ,with a flexible drive,or long belt?!!

So Why are 99% of Batteries in a front engined car in the front !! Perhaps because it is a logic place to put it?!!

Edited 28 December, 201015 yr by AndyPandy

If done by BMW (in a rear engined car perhaps) or Formula One Racing car ,it will be done correctly !!.

Have you heard of voltage drops ,and why should be avoided if at all possible? The battery and Alternator are in an electronically closed loop at the front to work correctly. Cable copper sizes and lengths,together with the electronics inside the alternator are all part of that loop. The battery in the rear cannot be charged correctly ,or in the quickest time possible (needed after a few starts in Winter) unless the engineering is done first.I suggest moving the Alternator too the Boot as well ,with a flexible drive,or long belt?!!

So Why are 99% of Batteries in a front engined car in the front !! Perhaps because it is a logic place to put it?!!

BMWs aren't rear engined....

I have heard of voltage drops, and I also understand the more surface area, the lower the voltage drop. That's why people use thick cable for high ampage applications. An e46 m3 uses 4g cable, and there's a good few meters between alternator and battery (there's no belt between engine in the front and alternator in the back, I've checked ;-) ), and that suffers no problems.

In conclusion, with a thick enough cable, voltage drop will be neligeable .

You are correct with the idea of batterys in the front though, I think it's due to economy....it's cheaper to have everything in the front of the car.....

For the record I've had three front-engined cars with batteries at the rear (as designed by the manufacturer) - Mini, BMW 525 (under the rear seat) and Mazda MX-5.

Loads of people put battery in the boot, my dad use to do that **** when he was young. Anything that gets rid of a little weight from the front of the fabia is a good thing IMO!

Matt