Here's what VW say about it:

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_259.pdf

Whether the system uses G250 sensor or G85 seems to depend on absence/presence of options like ESP.

I have a 2013 fabia with steering issues...... Can any one tell me how the system works as there is no sensor on the rack , does it just rely on the steering angle sensor to activate the pump ?

Thanks in advance

 

Yes, usually cars with ESP only have G85 sensor.

Mine has both G85 and G250, I don't understand why...

Edited 5 October, 201510 yr by dm222

Thanks for that it makes a lot of sense now , now then if I was building a competition car does any aftermarket company do on/off system with no input from steering angle ?

Thanks again

When it flags a fault with overheating I would guess.

 

Long story short I had to replace my pump twice in 4 months.

 

Both times the errors were: 

2 Faults Found:

01290 - Reference Voltage; Steering Assist 

            29-00 - Short to Ground

00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250) 

            37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

 

After cleaning the errors I had this errors back:

2 Faults Found:

01290 - Reference Voltage; Steering Assist 

            29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250) 

            30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

 

Both times apparently at first only the sensor stopped working and the pump was always at 1254rpm and 0.0º/s and then both times a week later the whole pump failed (0rpm), but the problem seems to be originated in the pump because after replacing the symptoms were gone.

 

No errors after replacing the pump.

 

Now, after the last pump change (and the previous also) my steering gets slighter heavier after around 20 minutes of driving without any error, don't know what to do anymore, do you have any ideas what it could be Tech1e? The sensor seems to be working fine at measure blocks, although I have no value at 4.3, it's blank, (Steer Aid. Sensor Reference Voltage) but 2.1 seems fine.

I've been investigating for months and never seen a case like mine! I've been comparing my measure blocks with Wino logs and my steering amps are fairly higher and voltages at terminal 15 and 30 are normal

Edited 5 October, 201510 yr by dm222

If the pump is working harder or drawing more current it could just be it's a different pump (not all pumps work exactly the same) or maybe there is a restriction somewhere in the system, assuming the oil level is satisfactory,

If the pump is working harder or drawing more current it could just be it's a different pump (not all pumps work exactly the same) or maybe there is a restriction somewhere in the system, assuming the oil level is satisfactory,

 

Oil level is OK, giving the fact that it only happens hot, is there something I should look for?

I have just purchased a replacement instrument cluster on my 2000 x reg fabia 1.4

Upon installing it i have had to recode it and then i was informed i need to also hook it up to a tek 2 system to program it into my ecu is this info correct please help

I have a faulty steering sensor. When I park at night at home I lock the steering wheel over night and the next day it starts fine. When I park at work I didn't lock the steering wheel and I took 3 attempts to start it. So I have now been locking the steering wheel at work and I haven't had a problem since. I still have the light and I will be getting the sensor changed at the end of the month but this a good short term fix.

I have just purchased a replacement instrument cluster on my 2000 x reg fabia 1.4

Upon installing it i have had to recode it and then i was informed i need to also hook it up to a tek 2 system to program it into my ecu is this info correct please help

Tech2 is a GM system not VAG. You need a dealer to code the dash cluster unless you have all the security codes. I would start another thread as this one is for power steering issues.

I have a faulty steering sensor. When I park at night at home I lock the steering wheel over night and the next day it starts fine. When I park at work I didn't lock the steering wheel and I took 3 attempts to start it. So I have now been locking the steering wheel at work and I haven't had a problem since. I still have the light and I will be getting the sensor changed at the end of the month but this a good short term fix.

The steering sensor has nothing to do with the steering lock. The non start issue is more likely a low key signal issue.

Oil level is OK, giving the fact that it only happens hot, is there something I should look for?

 

Does it worth replacing the power steering oil to VAG original? I don't know wich one they have put on when replaced the pump, only that it's G 004 000 M2.

That's the correct oil for your car.

That's the correct oil for your car.

 

Do you know if there is anything that could affect power steering and braking pedal hardness at the same time?

Is it normal for the pump to draw 90A at the start?

Poor connection or earth is more likely I'd say

 

Could a poor conection to earth in another component affect the steering? Even if that component is not activated at the moment? For example radiator fan?

From looking around I've found what I believe to be the problem, at least on mine anyway!

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/index.php?/topic/334979-Alternator-load-signal-wire

Alternator load signal wire

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From looking around I've found what I believe to be the problem, at least on mine anyway!http://www.briskoda.net/forums/index.php?/topic/334979-Alternator-load-signal-wire

Alternator load signal wire

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

No battery light?

No

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Easy fix though. It may not be the sole cause of your power steering issues but it sure as hell ain't going to help.

The car needs a bit of a rev to turn the PS on. And does all what that link says.

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Good place to start then.

Hi guys!

I am new on this forum and have spent the last couple of days reading posts. I would like to ask a question that somebody else asked before and may have solved the issue. However, I promise that this is brand new

Since I bought my car, I realized that the headlights and everything else that is illuminated (inside lights, etc.) is flickering. I immediately went to an electrician, he said the Voltage Regulator does that. Changed it, still flickering. Now it may be the alternator. Changed it too, still no success.

When I turn off the car, I hear a sound from the PAS pump. And when I turn the car on, the battery and PAS lights turn off only when the car starts. I did as many other did - sweated a lot while trying to reach the PAS pump cap. It was missing just a little bit fluid, so I refilled it a bit. I don't think there is a leak as I am sure that I am the first one to open the PAS pump cap.

Since electricians only guess what the problem is, have anyone had similar problem?

What I forgot to mention (which is my biggest concern) is this wiring on the battery fuse box.

 

 

Obviously somebody was messing with the electrical installation, as the alternator cable is placed one place to the right, and everything else shifted. My concern is should the alternator cable be connected to a 110amp "socket" rather than the 175amp that is factory made. Should I switch it back, and if I do so - will I burn something or cause more trouble? A cousin of mine got lights flickering and PAS issues, same as mine. He bought a second hand fuse box and replaced it. Didn't have any issues ever since!

Edited 19 January, 201610 yr by NuneFabia

I'm a bit confused by that picture.  If the wire from the alternator is the one going to the second fuse from the left, where's the one that was going there before, the one that goes to the cabin?

The red-black one on the third-from-left fuse is the one that goes to the power steering pump/module, then the other three should be radiator fan, ABS and glowplugs (not necessarily in that order).

 

Maybe the alternator cable isn't that one on the second fuse, but has actually been connected directly to the battery clamp?

Hi guys!

I am new on this forum and have spent the last couple of days reading posts. I would like to ask a question that somebody else asked before and may have solved the issue. However, I promise that this is brand new

Since I bought my car, I realized that the headlights and everything else that is illuminated (inside lights, etc.) is flickering. I immediately went to an electrician, he said the Voltage Regulator does that. Changed it, still flickering. Now it may be the alternator. Changed it too, still no success.

When I turn off the car, I hear a sound from the PAS pump. And when I turn the car on, the battery and PAS lights turn off only when the car starts. I did as many other did - sweated a lot while trying to reach the PAS pump cap. It was missing just a little bit fluid, so I refilled it a bit. I don't think there is a leak as I am sure that I am the first one to open the PAS pump cap.

Since electricians only guess what the problem is, have anyone had similar problem?

If you have a voltmeter or mutimeter, try this:

 

Start engine, with bonnet open and battery box lid open so you can get the meter probes right onto the battery terminals/posts.

Measure the voltage between the two battery posts, with none of the cabin electrics (headlights/cabin fan/rear screen heater) switched on. Write down that number.

Now switch on some electrical loads, say headlights and cabin fan at full speed. Measure again the voltage between the two battery posts. Write that down.

 

With those two numbers, we will be better able to help you.