VCDS Version: Release 10.6.2

Data version: 20101123

Monday,24,January,2011,17:34:43:36838

Chassis Type: 1U - Skoda Octavia I

Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 56 76

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Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-033-AVU.lbl

Part No: 06A 906 033 BG

Component: SIMOS33 1.6l 2V 00HS4600

Coding: 00031

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: 65CAAD10933BD034

TMBCX41U432788999 SKZ7Z0C1897465

5 Faults Found:

18070 - Coolant Fan Control 2: Short to Ground

P1662 -- 35-00 - -

17527 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating Circuit: B2 S1: Short to Ground

P1119 -- 35-00 - -

16537 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1: Response too Slow

P0153 -- 35-10 - - - Intermittent

16959 - SAE - Cruise Control Input Circuit

P0575 -- 35-00 - -

16516 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Signal too High

P0132 -- 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: 0010 1001

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Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl

Part No: 1C0 907 379 K

Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103

Coding: 0013313

Shop #: WSC 31480 000 00000

VCID: 3260064C9275778C

1 Fault Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module

013 -- Check DTC Memory - Intermittent

Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1U0-920-xxx-17.lbl

Control Module Part Number: 1U0 920 911 B

2 Faults Found:

01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)

64-10 -- Not Currently Testable - Intermittent

00563 - Instantaneous Consumption Display (Y10)

30-00 -- Open or Short to Plus

Readiness Status: 0000 0000

Exhaust Gas Recirculation: Passed

Oxygen Sensor Heating: Passed

Oxygen Sensor(s): Failed or Incomplete

Air Conditioning: Passed

Seconday Air Injection: Failed or Incomplete

Evaporative Emissions: Passed

Catalyst Heating: Passed

Catalytic Converter(s): Failed or Incomplete

Ok where do I start.When I bought the car it had a split in the crank case breather and the intake pipe,which I thought was the cause of the engine management light.It certainly helped but still wasnt fixed.Basically the car has been running a bit rubbish for a few months and I havent had the money to fix it.I brought it to a garage for diagnostics and they told me it was the maf which I changed to no avail.Being quiet poor I was disheartened by that waste of money so left it for a few months until I begged a mate to check it for me.He came up with the above.

The temperature gauge doesnt work but the ecu is getting the right reading he said.

From what I can make out its an 02 sensor gone wrong.

I also remember he said one of the 02 sensors was meant to have a specification of 110 and it was reading zero.The other one was reading 111 as its meant too.

Now abput the abs thing there is a hissing when I press the brake pedal,which I think is the brake booster.

Iam not too worried about the breaks I can sort that myself.Its just Iam sick of buying sensors for the engine and them not fixing it.

oh and one more thing I have the coolant level (flashing red light)glitch aswell.

So from what I see I need the first lamba sensor,a temp sensor,a coolant bootle,and investigate the air leak on the brakes?Any comments welcome!

Anyone please,Iam really under pressure on this one!

I take it the codes have been cleared before and these are the ones that have come back? Multiple electrical sensor failures may be down to an overall electrical issue, such as earthing.

Yes they where cleared and these came back.It may well be a major issue but if I could at least test the lambda sensors(possible work out one is faulty) and establish if this is multible unlucky failures or a main loom problem of some sort.

Thanks for your help

The key might be in the ECU fault code - it looks like it may be having power issues. I assume those would follow through to the sensors it powers

But that only comes up under the abs check.I will have to check the 02 sensors tommorow if they are ok I dont know what Iam gonna do.I really cant afford a new ecu!

You might not have to go that far so don't panic just yet. If lots of things appear to be shorting to ground or high, the chances of them all failing simultaneously are slim. I think a few of the components listed there share a common earth, and a lot of your faults seem to be with sensors grounding out; that may mean that you have a major short somewhere, so it might be worth checking the main connectors back at the ECU, and the earth points.

Right lads Iam even more confused now.I checked the two lambda sensors at the point where they meet ,the connections where inside a little black box.The one after the cat had an ohm reading on the two white wires of 400KILO ohms(This cant be right).The other black and grey wires had a reading of 8milli ohms(should this not be a non continutity connection).Now I really havent a clue about the other one before the cat which had a pink,yellow,black,white and grey wire going to it.How do I test that one?

I thought from vcds bank 2 sensor 1,bank 1 sensor 1

Both mean the one before the cat,Have I got it the wrong way round?

All the faults cleared apart from the lambda sensor ones

Can anyone shed some light on testing the first 5 wire o2 sensor.I have vcds for this evening.Can I test it using that.?How?What measuring block do I use?

I would start with the coolent temp sensor, if thats faulty for any reason then it will knock the cooling fan and lamba sensors off and possibly put fault codes in for them,

Engine only really uses lamba sensors once it warm but if it doesnt know how warm it is then it wont understand signals from them,

Is it running cooling fan all time by any chance even when flat cold, i know some makes do it as a safely precaution

No the fan is fine it just shorted once because I was messing with the temp sensor,I cleared it and it hasnt come back.The temp reading to the ecu is bang on,its just the dash is getting no reading at all,so yes it is a faulty temp sensor or wiring but only appears to be on the dash side of the sensor.Also if anyone has a wiring diagram so I can test the wiring to the dash from the temp sensor that would be great,Iam afraid to join the wrong terminals incase I short out the ecu or something.

Thanks again lads for the replies.

Iam going to try a few things like graph the lambda reading and allign the throttle body.

Can I also point out that if I clear the faults they wont come back until the engine is warm(Does this point to the lambda?)

Right I am starting to get there,I have to say at this stage Iam getting sick of this car.It was almost on fire today.

Anywho what I have put into this car which were proven to be faulty

Maf

Post cat lambda

temp sensor

water pumt,t-belt, tensioner etc.(Two weeks after I bought it,heater stoped working during snow,wasnt funny at all doing 100 miles with no heater.)

Iam currently putting in a new servo,which I think is causing the engine to run rough,Its probably what caused the other sensors to go and I have to say a years worth of rough running has taken its toll.All the intake assembly looks like a diesel engine after 250k.It only did 10k running rough.It was sucking in air like no tommorowaround the push rod seal when the brake pedal was pressed.(Fingers crossed this sorts it.)

I also have to say changing the servo on these is the biggest curse that can possibly be beared down on a human.Yes I know its not the biggest job, but they could have made it a lot easier and thats irritating.It looks like Iam gonna have to take the engine half out.

Its just annoying because before this I had a €1000 fiesta as a run around that never broke down once through two years of abuse.I never even changed the oil in it.

I have too say I will be hard pushed to buy another skoda,but then again every manufacter has its lemons.Bitter sweet and all that

So final question is I read something about bleeding the brakes by pussing on the pedal can reverse seals in the servo.Is this true if so how do I do it?