Well ive just done it, after putting it off for weeks it took literally 3 or 4 miniutes.

The dv sounds much crisper now, almost like a chatter? :|

I have taken from the fpr and just T'd this to the dump valve, this is right isnt it?

Also if your planning on doing it be gentle when trying to get the 'one use' clip off the fpr! I bent the nipple slightly but no drama.

Edited 2 February, 201115 yr by RyanG

took 4 to 5 mins??? how did you do it????

take a pic as you have confused me

Edited 2 February, 201115 yr by westallc

I have only bypassed it, not removed the whole system. I found a guide off SCN and followed that.

1/ Took off pipe from FPR

2/ Attach silicone hose to fpr straight to take off on DV

3/ Cut silicone and insert 'T' piece

4/ Attach pipe that goes from inlet to the 'T' piece

5/ Block off pipe that originally went to the top of the DV

Edited 2 February, 201115 yr by RyanG

yeah my dv is quieter and does sound a bit like faint chatter.

Is there any pics showing this done at all on here??

I copied this one.

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=301285&highlight=n249

See post 17 for the diagram i used.

I copied this one.

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=301285&highlight=n249

See post 17 for the diagram i used.

Did you unplug the box off the top??? Has it or will it throw up a light??? I guuna do mine tomorrow but wanna be sure I will get no light on the dash????I also have my boost gauge runnin of the fpr will it matter??

Did you unplug the box off the top??? Has it or will it throw up a light??? I guuna do mine tomorrow but wanna be sure I will get no light on the dash????I also have my boost gauge runnin of the fpr will it matter??

Didnt unplug the box, only re-routed pipework really. Couldnt tell you about the guage, maybe somebody else could answer that.

Ive jut been for a drive and i didnt notice any different, apart from the sound is crisper and a bit quieter.

Didnt unplug the box, only re-routed pipework really. Couldnt tell you about the guage, maybe somebody else could answer that.

Ive jut been for a drive and i didnt notice any different, apart from the sound is crisper and a bit quieter.

So the pipe on the black box did u leave it there or just blanked it??? Cause on the seat form it says to put a resister on it??

You only have to do that if you are removing the system, all ive done is bypassed it. Same thing apart from its all still in place just not being used.

do you need to fiddle around with any resistors to stop the CEL popping up? or does doing this job not pop up any engine lights?

you only need the resister if you physicaly remove the n249 valve. the resister gores in the plug in its place.

ryang only re-routed one pipe and iam hoping he blocked one as well.

Yep, blocked the pipe that was ontop of the DV.

Did you refit the engine cover afterwards? I did on mine and was getting the chatter noise. Then I got limp mode. This was down to the cover squashing the hose on top of the dump valve. So now I leave cover off and no chatter noise or limp mode. :yes:

I'm going to attack the cover with a jig saw tomorrow, I'll just take that corner off so the DV is not covered up.

Just reading this .........

I got a boost gauge running of a t piece in FPR pipe, If I was too attempt this little trick, then where would I take the gauge feed from ??

Ok I'm a retard, just saw the rest of that thread onSCN

I assume I can leave my gauge T piece where it is, and make the cut on the pipe that comes up from the block and into the top of the FPR

I guess I should go and look at my FPR first, as I can't rmemeber whats where lol

I think I got it now, doubt I'll ever do this, more a case of thinking out loud lol

Is there any benifit to doing this! If so what??

Is there any benifit to doing this! If so what??

if your N249 is playing up then it can electronically cut boost when you don't want it to which can cause quite bad hesitation,

I'll be leaving my N249 alone as I have faith in it! I replaced it 2.5yrs ago with a new one, so I know it works.

Also it should be what saves your turbo if the N75 dies open or if the wastegate actuator diaphragm frets and leaks, disabling the WG valve. But the chances of that seem slim.

I may plumb it back in yet anyway,just something to try as everybody seems to reccomend doing it.

I don't really see the benefit of it yet, maybe I will when its mapped?

Well ive reversed it already, really didnt see the benefit, my n249 has always worked fine, this just didnt feel as smooth, it seemed a bit hesitant.

Also coming back from work i had no boost! didnt throw up any lights though.

That sounds like limp mode. 5psi it runs at iirc. Switching off engine and restarting normally resets it.

Removed all this garbage off mine a year ago with no issues and it runs a whole lot smoother I find