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Dimming lights, TCS and ABS lights remain on....

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Hello all, never thought I was going to ask for technical assistance so soon!

I have had my Mk.1 vRS now for 2 months with total satisfaction until last night. On my way home I noticed that all the dial lights start to dim and the TCS and ABS warning lights started to flicker, I got home ok but on trying to restart the engine it was as though the battery was flat and refused to start (not even trying to turn over). I went indoors for 30 minutes and curiosity led me to go out and try to start again, it did but it was as though it did reluctantly. This morning I decided to try again and it was the same, on a short drive all the lights dimmed, the TCS and ABS lights remained on and on trying to accelerate the car shuddered/misfired? as it did so. I have read one post with problems that were similar to mine and someone mentioned that it could be a faulty/failing alternator, could it be that simple?

Many thanks for any advice/help.

More than likely a high resistance in the main alternator cable and a melted fusebox ontop of the battery. You'll need a new alternator harness and maybe a fusebox.

More than likely a high resistance in the main alternator cable and a melted fusebox ontop of the battery. You'll need a new alternator harness and maybe a fusebox.

As above it will be high resistance caused by corrosion of the first fuse on the fusebox mounted on top of the battery, under the battery cover, BEWARE THIS IS A SERIOUS FIRE HAZARD you will need to change the fusebox ( drop me a PM as I actually have one surplus to requirements )

As above.

  • Author

Just checked the fusebox on the battery and there are signs of overheating on the cable furthest left when looking down on it. I noted there are three 30 amp fuses but none appear blown, will I need to replace these? Many thanks for your replies.

  • Author

Just checked the fusebox on the battery and there are signs of overheating on the cable furthest left when looking down on it. I noted there are three 30 amp fuses but none appear blown, will I need to replace these? Many thanks for your replies.

Now I see what fuses they mean. The actual 110A fuse is still intact and on removal the underneath of the fuse and nut that holds down cable has melted so I guess this means anew harness and fusebox?

Now I see what fuses they mean. The actual 110A fuse is still intact and on removal the underneath of the fuse and nut that holds down cable has melted so I guess this means anew harness and fusebox?

Yup

This can be caused by the main cable from the alternator having a poor crimp at the end, or by the nuts not being nipped up tight in the fuse box on top of the battery, or my high resistance in the alternator cable.

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