Following on from my original thread ( http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/196443-gearbox-output-flange-seals/ ), here's a DIY guide as promised. All the part numbers and prices are in the original thread.

Tools used:

16mm spanner

17mm hex key socket

6mm hex key socket

M10 XZN socket

M12 XZN socket

Beer bong (funnel + hose)

Broad flat head screwdrivers

Small pry bars

Seal press tool

Torque wrench (20-70Nm)

Breaker bar

Ratchet

Jack up the car nice and high, as you'll need the room for the torque wrench later:

This is where I place the axle stands:

The offending drivers side output seal:

Heat shield removed (bolts have a 16mm head, which is a non-standard spanner size):

Undo the driveshaft bolts (these original bolts had an M12 XZN head). You'll need a volunteer to hold the drivers side wheel when doing this:

While waiting for my volunteer to show up, I knocked up my beer bong! It's just a section of garden hose with a split end slid over the funnel, and taped up with electrical tape:

Put the steering to full right lock, if doing the right hand side. Mark the position of the driveshaft to flange with chalk, and carefully tie the shaft to one side:

Remove the long conical bolt that holds the flange in, using the 6mm hex key socket (again you'll need a volunteer to hold the passenger side wheel). Then place a drip pan under the diff and pull out the flange:

While waiting for the oil to drain, get the bits for making an installation tool:

Pull/lever out the old oil seal sleeve. In the original steel sleeve there is a notch for levering it out with a screwdriver, but I failed to get enough leverage using the very shallow notch. I switched to levering it out using small pry bars and screwdrivers between the gearbox casing and the outer flange on the sleeve. This worked a treat:

After packing the oil seal with universal grease (I used Castrol LM), and greasing the metal portion of the new sleeve, press the new sleeve into the gearbox casing. Note that the new sleeve has a plastic outer body, and no notches, and the oil seal has a totally different internal sealing design:

Then carefully slide the flange back in, and torque up the new conical bolt. Line up the driveshaft with the flange and install the new bolts (the new bolts had an M10 XZN head). Torque to 10Nm initially, then 70Nm in a radial sequence:

Then re-install the heat shield, and inspect and clean up everything:

You can then move on to filling the gearbox back up (or drain and refill if you've not changed the oil recently). So remove the filler plug at the front of the box using the 17mm hex key socket, and feed in the hose from the funnel. Place the drip pan under the filler hole and pour the gear oil in until it starts spilling out of the hole, then quickly thread the plug back in, as to not lose too much oil. I used the genuine gear oil from Skoda, which was the same as the stuff I put in there last year. Mine took a whole litre to fill up, but I didn't lose a litre when doing the seal, so it must have lost a fair bit through leakage over the past few months.

Now fire up the BBQ and have several beers, and pass out in the hedge safe in the knowledge that your gearbox won't run dry!

Edited 4 April, 201115 yr by Bodge

Nice, can I lend your beer bong sometime lol

Can I copy this to the guides section please !!

Nice writeup. Hey, I noticed you had no ties on the boot on the shaft?

Nice, can I lend your beer bong sometime lol

Can I copy this to the guides section please !!

Yeah sure, feel free to move it. You can borrow the beer bong too, but it might taste a bit like death now!

Nice writeup. Hey, I noticed you had no ties on the boot on the shaft?

Yeah the passenger side is like that too, and they've been like it since I've had the car (over 3.5yrs). The outer CV's have inner and outer clips, but the inner tripod joints only have the outer clips. They've never leaked or moved, so I've not touched them. I assumed they were supposed to be like that!

Has everyone elses vRS's got clips there then?

Very nice clear instructions and pictures .

How long did it take in total from jacking the car to back on the road?.

Peter

Very nice clear instructions and pictures .

How long did it take in total from jacking the car to back on the road?.

Peter

Thanks

It's hard to say how long it would take, because I was fannying about with other things under the car while doing it. But the job itself was pretty straight forward. I'd guess at 2-2.5hrs at a relaxed pace. The only mildly tricky bits are removing and installing the sleeve (getting it to slide in straight is obviously critical). I probably had the car up in the air for 7hrs though!

One thing that had my dad bemused was that if you spin one wheel while in neutral, the other wheel spins in the same direction! Which would tend to indicate that it had an LSD, which it doesn't. But if you put it in gear and force one wheel around, the other one rotates in the opposite direction. Can anyone explain?

Found the answer!

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/182521-lsdelectronic-diff

bigmike is correct they all do this with the std diff.

on the output flanges each side they have a large spring and a large cone shaped washed made of bronze (or similar) which acts exactly like a syncro ring does in a gearbox and causes some drag between the output shaft and the diff casing.

no idea why vw do it but they have on all the box's from about 1996 onwards..

completly normal mike and easily mistaken for a lsd

Thanks

It's hard to say how long it would take, because I was fannying about with other things under the car while doing it. But the job itself was pretty straight forward. I'd guess at 2-2.5hrs at a relaxed pace. The only mildly tricky bits are removing and installing the sleeve (getting it to slide in straight is obviously critical). I probably had the car up in the air for 7hrs though!

One thing that had my dad bemused was that if you spin one wheel while in neutral, the other wheel spins in the same direction! Which would tend to indicate that it had an LSD, which it doesn't. But if you put it in gear and force one wheel around, the other one rotates in the opposite direction. Can anyone explain?

Thank Bodge, 2.5 hours is not bad going, if I ever have to do it ill allow a day at least + asprins+coffee.

Peter

bringing this up again,

Bodge,

Why do you need to mark the shaft and flange?

What have you used for the press?

On the inner cv, the kit you get comes with clips for both ends so theyshould be on, I had that on the outer CV boot when I had a garage do it, they used a cable tie and I was not happy, specially when I supplied the kit lol (another garage I wont use again, that makes 4 else 5 around Cardiff)

cheers

billy

bringing this up again,

Bodge,

Why do you need to mark the shaft and flange?

What have you used for the press?

On the inner cv, the kit you get comes with clips for both ends so theyshould be on, I had that on the outer CV boot when I had a garage do it, they used a cable tie and I was not happy, specially when I supplied the kit lol (another garage I wont use again, that makes 4 else 5 around Cardiff)

cheers

billy

Reason the garage used cable ties it because the metal clips are a bugger to fit lol. Cable ties are a good replacement and you can get them tighter easier than the metal clips. Most garages use cable ties for the cv boots.

Reason the garage used cable ties it because the metal clips are a bugger to fit lol. Cable ties are a good replacement and you can get them tighter easier than the metal clips. Most garages use cable ties for the cv boots.

mmm Just plain lazy then lol

I didn my own and used the clips with no trouble at all.

Why do you need to mark the shaft and flange?

What have you used for the press?

On the inner cv, the kit you get comes with clips for both ends so theyshould be on, I had that on the outer CV boot when I had a garage do it, they used a cable tie and I was not happy, specially when I supplied the kit lol (another garage I wont use again, that makes 4 else 5 around Cardiff)

cheers

billy

Oright Billy!

I marked the shaft/flange alignment just to make sure things went back exactly as they were. It's a bit of an old school thing with making sure shafts remain balanced. Probably not necessary on a modern car as tolerances are that much tighter, but it's still good practice.

I used the disc from my rear beam bush press tool, with a length of some M8 studding and some M8 nuts. You thread the standard M8 studding into the gearbox (where the flange retaining bolt came from), then put the seal/sleeve in place, then put the disc over the top, and wind down with the M8 nut on the studding. You could use any metal disc for it, as long as it had an 80mm OD and 8mm hole in the centre. It's a lot more controlled than smashing the sleeve in with a mallet. Plus the new sleeves have plastic outers, so you run the risk of damaging them with a mallet.

Thanks for the heads up on the boot clip. It's weird that mine are missing, as they've never had any work done on them, and the joints haven't given me any problems before. But if I do ever change the boots and service the joints, I'll be sure to get all the right clips.

A good garage that you can trust is like rocking horse sh**e mate! The only garages I use now are Awesome, and occasionally Skoda if I don't have any other options. It's sad really, as I'm sure it wasn't like this before we all got sucked into this disposable image obsessed society....

I have just picked up my parts:

02J 409 528A Seal kit £11.99+ x1

02J 409 189A Seal £ 2.38+ x1

N904 411 03 Flange bolts £ .86+ x12

02J 409 359 Flange Retainging Bolt £ 2.33+ x2

G060 726 A2 Trans Oil £ 5.07+ x2

Bodge said the Left flange uses the same seal out of the Seal Kit, One thing I have noticed on that is the Kit is complete and already together and I cant see how to get it out. Am I missing something? I not too bothered as I have both ne way.

Wish me luck lol.

Cheers for the Guide again.

Billy

exellent guide and pics,myself and a mate did this today took about 1.5 - 2 hours,trickist(sp) bit was after undoing the M8 flange retaning bolt trying to get the flange out as no matter where we put it, the driveshaft kept catching it.took abit of fiddling with moving drivshaft, spining the wheel etc to get it to miss the driveshaft.

whats the Torque for the bolt in the middle of the flang you removed to do the seal..thanks

On 09/07/2011 at 14:55, billy2981 said:

I have just picked up my parts:

02J 409 528A Seal kit £11.99+ x1

02J 409 189A Seal £ 2.38+ x1

N904 411 03 Flange bolts £ .86+ x12

02J 409 359 Flange Retainging Bolt £ 2.33+ x2

G060 726 A2 Trans Oil £ 5.07+ x2

Bodge said the Left flange uses the same seal out of the Seal Kit, One thing I have noticed on that is the Kit is complete and already together and I cant see how to get it out. Am I missing something? I not too bothered as I have both ne way.

Wish me luck lol.

Cheers for the Guide again.

Billy

Are these the same part numbers for the MK2 FL with JCR gearbox?

Is there anywhere I could search for part numbers. Thanks

 

Pick a year, pick the 1Z version, keep digging down til you get where you need to be:

LLLParts

Thanks for that. Much appreciated