Air in brake system?

Also what's the symptoms of a buggered MC?

Sorry but I am on my fone and can't search.

Jus need to know as my brakes ar really bad at mo after bleedin and changing rer lines and front Brembos.

Billy

Buggered MC, the pedal will go to the floor.

Air is a PITA to get out of new rear brake lines. I recently changed mine, and had to bleed it 3 times to get it right.

When you bleed the new lines, keep tapping them with a spanner etc - I was surprised how many bubbles came out when I did this. :wonder:

Are you using the pedal method, or an eezibleed / pressure bleeder job?

Eezibleed with spare wheel at 17 psi.

I bled system and pedal didn't opperate the brakes. Was scary lol, so I parked it. I then blead the MC and there was air in it. With that gone I blead the system.

Brakes do work now but on first press the pedal goes right down, I havnt pushed it to floor tho jus in case. Then if you pump it it gets feel back and applies better. After a second or 2 of no brakin its back to crap again and you need to pump them.

One thing, when bleeding the brembos, do you do both nipples at once?

Have you bled the master cylinder?

Yes I have. The one at the back of MC had no air in it but the inner one had air in

there is an order to bleeding the brakes, did you do them furthest away from the mc working towards?

That means you keep feeding air into the MC. You have to treat the system as though the reservoir ran low. Bleed the pump and the MC (both) before trying to bleed at the brakes.

Right what I did.

Yest in a hurry I read the haynes book. Ours is the mk 60 abs thing iirc. (Bleed pass front, drivers front, pass rear, drivers rear)

I put fluid in the bottle and in the eezibleed.

Attached the spare wheel at 17-19 psi

Blead the passengers calliper, inside nipple first then outer nipple.

Blead drivers the same

Then rear passengers

Then rear drivers. Ran a fair bit thru.

Then went to test them and jus on pullin out were I live I tried them and nothing at all, no bite.

Parked abck up n went to work in GF's car.

Started again day after, filled eezibleed bottle up, connected it and put spare wheel there again with 17psi.

Blead the MC back nipple first then fwd one. They are a bugger to get to with a spanner.

Then blead the front callipers at same time stopping the passengers one first.

Then did same at rear.

There is now a bite on pedal but still way way off what they should be. And the pedal gets stiffer when you pump it while braking.

RW, where is the pump your on about?

RW, where is the pump your on about?

The ABS unit - there's a chance there is air in there too.

Sorry to Hi-jack your thread but our car is doing the same sort of thing.

On start up, the pedal is practically on the floor before any bite and the ABS cuts in whilst stopping.

You can pump to improve, but then goes back to the floor.

When you do brake, you can feel the brakes working very slightly whilst the pedal is on the way down, but no real brakes until very near the floor.

There was a vacuum hose under the inlets which my mechanic advised to change as it collapses and could cause braking problems.

I have changed this, whilst changing, I could hear air leaking out so there is possibly more air in the system. The air in no longer leaking, but still no improvement in braking.

Fluid is all good, so there are no fluid leaks.

Any help greatly appreciated by ourselves (billy2981 probably will be gratefull too, seeing as it is his thread!)

Apologies again for the Hi-jack

David & Martin

If there is air in the ABS pump you will need VAGcom to activate it while you are bleeding the brakes and get the air out.

Mmm now then,

I have sorted it, I tapped the lines.

Gonna do it again in a day or so.

I need to get some proper spacers as the ones I was given are universal ones and make the wheels wobble real bad at 60+

I have also tried the brembos and OMG they are awesome! No fade like the 312's I felt sick after stopping hard from 70.

The car should of had them as std.

thats cool billy, glad you got it sorted!

yes you def need hubcentric spacers on there, got mine from a guy on ebay called the zoom room, damn good price for quality items!

Its actually is scary isnt it, slamming them on at that speed, you can almost feel **** moving inside as it hits your rib cage trying to keep going!!!!

oh yea,

Ive looked at them guys on ebay but they dont do 5mm spacers.

Ive got a pair of 5mm Taper pro hubcentrics and a pair of 3mm hubcentrics from car audio and security, £come to 60 notes delivered. The 3mm ones will go on the back with the 17" spiders and the 5mm on the front with the spiders. Ill then use the 3mm on the front with the TD pro race 1.2 18" and nothing on the rear.

I have noticed tho that the brakes have a wobble on them? when braking you can feel it thru the pedal and the car shakes. I am thinking the discs are buggered? they came with them and are used but to look at them they are pritty new same as the pads.

might have to get some new ones.

I did clean them up really well with the drill brush.

yup classic warped discs by the sound of it, common on the lcr setup too due to the increased performance of the brembos.

If you are feeling rich godspeed do a 2 piece bell and rotor setup for 434, which increase the disc to 330mm and are a great upgrade....shame it costs a lot more than a set of standard lcr discs.

I thought the warped disc was a theory? And it was just stuff on the surface.

Unfortunatly I am not feelin rich. Think ill stick to thhese for a while. Thing is, I either get the ebc gd discs again to match the rears or get plain for front and back lol. Can't have it not matchin.

The spacers are ordered, tbh if I take my time its ok at 60, only thing it takes longer to get places.

Just need cruise control puttin on and its all good.

na warped discs are very much a reality of heavy one piece discs being overheated then warping, the 2 piece solve that as the bells (centres) are ally and allow the heat to dissepate far better.

I know what you mean, you must have spent a fortune lately.

Still ebc stuff is not cheap!

Just a bit lol.

One thing ill say tho is if you want a good handling car,

R32 FARB

TT wishbones

TT hub assemblies

28mm RARB

Weitec/KW coilovers set to 5-10mm lower rear and 15-20mm lower on front

Awesome handlling! Love it!

Give em a good spanking first and make sure it's crap built up on them, I can do it for if you like lol as I now what your like

Lol yeam I did it yest on way to work. I've actually left 2 nice lines of rubber on the slip road lol. Nice light ones, you can tell they didn't lock.

That made them a bit better. Gonna do it a few times to make sure.

Here it is,

Might as well post it in here.

I sorted that judder out quite a lot and its only a ligght one now so I think it is a disc that's warped

Would this also cause wheel wobble? I have it at 60+ mph seems to be worse in the day and on way home at night its not really there for a while then after a while it comes on again.

I've swapped the spacers for hubcentric ones and its the same. The wheels have a very small wobble after the new tyres but nothing this bad.

read this

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Ok the wobble was the wheel balancing. There is a slight wobble now withth TD's but they were not perfect when done.

Does anyone know where I can get ballancing done properly?

Not one place I go does it right. The spiders came on the 51 plate car and they had toyo T1r on them.

They were perfect. No wobble at all! Better than the original conti sports that came on my car from new.

Now I couldn't leave them any longer so I had to get 2 new tyres done so went to pit stop on Huddersfield road when I was up north to get 2 new t1R fitted. And needless to say they are not as well ballanced as the time before.

Lewis motors in cardiff are crap too plus they are the ones that tried tellin me I was the one that damaged my rim. So won't ever go there again.

could be the tyres - some brands have a worse reputation than others