Hello to you all just looking for some advice. I have owned my Vrs mk 1 octi for a week now, I like the car very much, and yes this is my first time of been in a Vrs so I dont know what to expect. Power wise it feels like its lacking and not 180 bhp, it dosent seem to force you into the seat, there is turbo lag but when the whistle starts at about 2000 rpm I expected to be pushed into the seat about 3000 rpm, when the turbo is at full boost, but dosent, it just feels like a gradual power increase from 2000 rpm. The reason why Im asking for advice is I had a head to head with a rover mg 2.5 v6 180 bhp which is completely standerd and Im sorry to say he was in front and pulling away from me. I would be very gratefull on feedback on what the car should feel like and if there seems to be a problem please could you tell me what to look for and how it can be fixed. Thnk you for taking your time in reading this post

ko3s is a small turbo so it won't give so much of a kick in the back. has your car been serviced etc lately? do you know if there are any fault codes? in standard form they aren't that fast really, I remember being a little unwhelmed when I first drove one, but once remapped they are much more useful.

would be worth maybe getting someone with vcds doing some data logging on it.

Try unplugging the MAF sensor. If the car runs better with it unplugged you have a dying MAF.

I`m going to get the car booked in to a roll and road tuner in Northallerton just to see how much bhp its given. I belive the car has had a recent service but I have had to take the fellas word for that due to buying the car with no history. He said his wife had thrown it out so been a bit of a fool taking a chance, but I did do a deal with a car that was given me problems every week so couldnt do any worse lol. A remap is on the cards but would like to make sure the engine is fit enough and healthy enough to take it. I will keep you posted on the results. I have the 16 pin obd2 plug but dont know were to get the software from, as the software i have is for ford.

Your Octy vRS most prob has had or has the wrong (cheaper) grade of fuel put in it !!!

Try running it on the recommended 98 (or 99) for a few tank fills, and see if full power is restored.

PS....are you sure the rover did'nt have the usual performance upgrades ie tartan rug and trilby on the back parcel shelf ???? If it did then you stand no chance in a std Octy vRS lol.

HTH

Bill.

in standard form they don't feel much, the K03s turbo spools up quickly and is very smooth. Get it remapped and it's a completely different animal and will impress you very much. Also I have always found a car feels slower when you are driving it, have a go in the passenger seat and then see if you feel any pull. The 180 MG's are very punchy and probably faster than a standard VRS.

I can feel a pull from mine. Starts about 1500rpm. Sounds like Scotty96's car might be in limp mode permantly if its feeling really flat?

I wasnt very impressed with mine when i first got it, but after a decent service and giving it abit of stick it seemed to wake up,

I had a volvo turbo before vrs and think vrs is alot more rev happy and to get most out of it you have to rev it and keep it on boil,

The reason why Im asking for advice is I had a head to head with a rover mg 2.5 v6 180 bhp which is completely standerd and Im sorry to say he was in front and pulling away from me.

It always depends on what car you are up against. The MG ZS 180 is a underated car, I had one and they get there power down very quickly and the v6 engine has lots of torque. My ZS was quicker than my VRS in std form and was also 10 times better round the corners and twistys. The MG suspension was excellent. But that was about it good engine and handing the rest poor and bland.

As others have mentioned get the car checked. If i was to drive a std VRS now i would think it was slow and i have had mine remapped twice. The VRS is a different car after remap which makes the best from the K03s turbo 1.8 engine.

When I bought mine, I was a little disappointed with performance. it just didn`t feel like a 180hp car but after few mods car now feels like wild pig on steroids

I taught mine was quick when I bought it but used to it now so it doesn't impress me anymore, how different are we talking after a remap? Does it really feel like a different car?

I taught mine was quick when I bought it but used to it now so it doesn't impress me anymore, how different are we talking after a remap? Does it really feel like a different car?

In simple answer ... YES it does.

Simple and straight to the point lol, must get it done!

Get it IHI power'd a enjoy grinning from ear to ear everytime you drive it!

Ive just brought another vrs after i sold my old one over a year ago, and this one feels very quick!! My old one i had remapped but this one seems faster then that So im not sure weather it's been remapped or not, or it's a very good standard one or my last one was down on power abit.

:wonder:

Well its a remap I think, dont get me wrong its not slow its quite a quick car, just thought it would feel alot quicker than it actually is. Ive started to tinker with it now, put a cone filter on sorted out my HID lights and next is a remap, will keep you posted on what happens next, altho it maybe a few weeks before the remap, got 2 kids wanting alsorts at the moment lol

The cone filter is a bad idea, get the original airbox back on :/

The cone filter is a bad idea, get the original airbox back on :/

Why is it a bad idea to have a cone filter on?

heat soak.

Agreed there, cone filter in bay will loose you shed loads.

Also I can't understand how you gettin lag? Unless you have a problem.

Depending what you want out of it, a remap is a must and so too is a rear ARB. That will make the extra power usable in the bends as the handling of a std car is......

Well poor to say the least.

Just remember that a well setup car doesn't really need a lot of power to be good. Mine has prob 210 bhp with the generic IP remap on the ecu I have in but the handling more than makes up for it. The proper map on my original ECU for the car was running 226bhp but needs tweeking due to lots of other mods. That is a nice amount for me.

Personally I would get the car ready for lots of power. Then if you so desire you can BT it.

I liked the smoothness of the std map but you needed to rev it to around 5k mark to make headway. A remap will prob give you the power and torque nearer the 3 k mark and make the car a lot easier to drive and use.

All depends on the map really. I have had around 6 maps from diff tuners.

1 Reddot(had 2 diff ones from them and both were **** one made the car inopperable hence why I am a member on here)

2 random "std" map from one of Fatty5000 mates to sort out the above trouble was sfaster than a std map and pritty good

3 APR trial (was a very agressive map for me but nice and fluid)

4 CCCTech Upsolute(total crap. Was nice till 3k then just fell off and dumped the boost and you ended up goin into the windscreen)

5 RSTuning custom map(very nice pulls hard but I have some slight lag at the start which needs ironing out. On hole tho a nice powerfull map)

6 Imposible Performance generic phase 1 map(on the ECU out of the other cmk1 I purchased to fix mine. No lag like the RS one and very nice. I feel its a high boost map tho so only using coz its 1mpl better on fuel lol)

Thoes are my experiences with remaps so just pick yours carefully and do your homework.

Billy

I don't experince neck breaking in 3rd and above but in first or second my car will snap your neck clean off your shoulder and I haven't even done the remap yet.

As for things pulling away from me...

I have taken on 3ltr diesel audi's and they have never managed to pull away from me,

took on a BMW 325 e36? and I still had loads left to use,

played with my mate and his TT 225,

completely destroyed a 10plate TT the otherday!

I was even keeping moderate pace with my friends M5 estate last sunday.

I have only been bested by one car and that was a BMW 135 msport.

Best car I have ever owned and driven!

Newly purchased vRS rule of thumb = Remap, RARB, Diverter Valve, Metal water impaler and oil-breather y-pipe

the remap will make the engine work properly

the rarb will keep the rear-end in check

the diverter valve will help the turbo system work reliablely

the metal water impaler won't break off

the y-pipe won't degrade like the early eom ones

That should see you with car that's got a solid 210bhp ~ 230nmT ( 147bhp/ton, < 7.5sec 0-60 ), and handle in a compotent manner.

You'll also be able to meet a MG ZS on more equal terms: 175bhp ~ 240nmT ( 147bhp/ton, < 7.5sec 0-60 )

( the MG weighs something like 1212kg - some 230+kg lighter than a vrs)

I don't experince neck breaking in 3rd and above but in first or second my car will snap your neck clean off your shoulder and I haven't even done the remap yet.

As for things pulling away from me...

I have taken on 3ltr diesel audi's and they have never managed to pull away from me,

took on a BMW 325 e36? and I still had loads left to use,

played with my mate and his TT 225,

completely destroyed a 10plate TT the otherday!

I was even keeping moderate pace with my friends M5 estate last sunday.

I have only been bested by one car and that was a BMW 135 msport.

Best car I have ever owned and driven!

Ill take those with a pinch of salt!

haha, love these too

"I was even keeping moderate pace with my friends M5 estate last sunday."

"I have only been bested by one car and that was a BMW 135 msport."

He must be 17, I felt like that when I had my 1.6 mk2 golf

Lol M5 driver must have a 2l with M5 badges.

Still they are solid cars even std but as said a remap and pannel filter will make the car more competent. They couldn't make it faster than a golf hence the 180 hp and more weight and poor handling. But take the best bits from other golf4 platform vehicles and you get one awesome car and by far the best looking mk4 platform car out there. Imo ne way