Finally got round to doing my rear brakes (pads and discs).

Couple of false starts but got the back left done. Wehn I came to the back right I found that some genious has rounded the top guide bolt so I can't shift it with a socket/spanner.

Anyone got any ideas how to undo it? I'm hoping to borrow a stilson/pipe wrench from someone tonight, but if not I'm rather stumped.

Tom

I had this and got around it by removing the two bolts holding the carrier to the hub. You can then remove the whole caliper and carrier and do it that way. Makes it really awkward to get new pads in though, especially with the metal shims in.

Irwin bolt removers, then replace the bolt, or try using an impact screwdriver if you have enough access.

I always use these:

http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=bolt+extractor&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=ivns&biw=1680&bih=889&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=2271817584877893792&sa=X&ei=rAG5TYWvF5K38gPf57hL&ved=0CJUBEPMCMAg#

Oh well, things just get worse!

Can't remove the guide bolt, can't get a pair of stilsons for less that about £35 round here - and not sure they'd fit in there anyway.

Tried to undo the caliper mount, and I can't shift either of the bolts on there. Pretty cheesed off all in all.

Guess now I have to put the guide bolt I did remove back on, then drive it to the garage on Tuesday and pay a hansom price for them to undo it, and fit the pads and disc on that one side only - bleedin' annoying.

Tom

PS - I'm assuming I'm not being stupid and the mounts are left hand thread?

Did you not get new bolts with the pads? You should always use new bolts. They are standard thread.

You need a 13mm to undo the bolts and 15mm to counterhold. Use a dismantling fluid such as PlusGas.

If you've rounded to bolt head, then file the head until you can get a 1/2" or 12mm 6-sided socket on.

Yes, I did get replacement bolts.

The one side was a piece of cake, 13mm socket to remove both the guide bolts, quick tap of the caliper of it came, whipped the disc off, new one on, new pads in cleaned the to little plates, wound the caliper back, slotted it on and put the two new bolts in.

The other side though is where I discovered that one guide bolt was already rounded, and one was fine - that came out. That lead to this post and the answer of removing the caliper mount, but I can't shift either of the hex drives bolts that hold that in place.

Everything has been liberally dosed with WD40.

I now have 1 choice left, try filing new flats onto the bolt, or take it to the garage. I'm loath to pay them, but it is still possible to re-assemble and drive it there.

I can't see how I can file more than one flat onto the guide bolt head, the caliper and pipe obstruct access to the other sides.

Tom

Try using something along the plus-gas line rather than WD40 - that might help a bit more.

Also Duck oil....... WD-40 is crap

Any room to get a grinder in to grind flats on, cut a slot in and use a screwdriver bit, or even chop the head off? As others have said, use plus-gas, not WD40.

OK, an update...

No room for grinder

Couldn't get a decent wrench in time

Got some PlusGas - no difference

Filed some more flats on, and if I'd tried would have rounded it all off again

Pretty hacked off.

Then discovered that by unclipping the hand brake cable, then releasing it from the bracket I could swing the caliper sufficiently round on the knacker top guide bolt that I could get everything done. So for now the knackered bolt is staying put.

The only issue I have now is the binding...New rear pads binding

Tom

Get Irwin bolt removers, itll come off with them, they cut into the rounded bolt and grip it more than enough to undo it, youll just need to replace the bolt after youve removed it. Theyre only £15 or something for 3/8 drive.

Ordered some, so I guess next weekend I can take the car to bits again - joy.

Tom