So I have noticed quite a bit has been said about running in the 1.6 diesel lump in all it's guises. Firstly, I have worked in the motor trade for 8 years ( though thankfully escaped last year) and have never advised any customer of any specific running in process other than to avoid heavy acceleration or braking. This is the advice I have always been asked to impart by the manufacturers I have worked for (BMW, MINI, Toyota, Land Rover, Jaguar) with the exception of BMW M cars and Ferrari/Maserati (the latter generally broke down before they were run in anyway).

I have ordered my diesel fabia because I do a high mileage and some of the discussion on running in is a little concerning. When I collect my car in September, by the end of October it wi have 6,000 miles on the clock 98% of which wi be done on the motorway, mainly the M25 and M11. This gives me virtually no opportunity to vary revs and speed, it will be 6,000 miles of constant speed and revs.

On the up side, I should see fuel economy improvement quicker than most, and the dealer says it shouldn't be an issue but this forum has made me wonder.

I have always been told modern engines are bench run in, with the only progressive issue is the 'loosening' of over engineered diesel engines over the first few thousand miles ( as being experienced in my wife's 3 month old Mazda 5 ). Is thus different with the VAG group?

you seem pretty clued up on your stuff so you may be the best prerson to answer your own question, however I have the 1.6cr tdi 105 bhp lump , I have mostly driven diesels of several makes but most skodas, I have great fuel economy from the off , I tend to drive sensibly but red mist occasionally comes down, generally leave it in fourth and only take it to fifth only when doing 55+ and never before, generally leave it around 2k revs and mostly when I can stick cruise on at 5 gear at 60mph and that's were I stay and get 60-64 mpg on a run but even on b roads I get a good 58-59mpg in fourth so hoe this helps, yours with 6 k on it should be very economical however the motorway driving shouldn't put you off as the gears won't have been overused and engine probably loved it!

Edited 4 May, 201115 yr by seboni121

Whitelighter, as Seb says I think you have the answers. VAG engines are not too different to any other engine, but certainly built to a very high standard of design and engineering. VAG mass produced engines are not run in on the bench. Porche and other exotica are. Just don't go too easy with the engine and try to avoid constant speed operations and you'll be fine. As for motorway work...that's okl. You don't have to vary the speed too much at all...(it's mainly engine speed they refer to) just come off the throttle from time to time and vary the actual load too, this avoids glazing the bores. Make extra gear changes too even if not needed. But other than that, just drive it normally with due regard to the instructions in the handbook. You can't really hurt these engines but you can get a better engine by following some simple rules, over someone that doesn't. Good luck and let us all know how you get on. Enjoy your new car.

There are various posts on the forum.

I'm not in the motor trade but to summarise what I have read avoid constant speed / revs, and cruise control if fitted. Rather if traffic conditions allow try fluctuate speed even if only a few mph. Also as the miles build towards 1000 some fairly hard acceleration using upto 3/4 throttle and up to 3000rpm. If any hills drop speed back then accelerate.

If traffic such that speeds relatively constant may run in 4th gear from time to time.

Once at 1000 miles use full throttle and max revs from time to time over next 500 miles.

Engine considered run in at 1500 miles but still good to vary revs and demand power every so often

Generally ignore gear change indication as, for me any way and now 750 miles driven, engine not really happy much below 1500rpm.

Others have said this will improve by 5000miles by when you will be getting best economy too.

One thing I have noticed is take-up from stationary not totally smooth.

I've not decided if simply engine vibration at just above tick over or a clutch imperfection. Once rolling gear changes seem fine.

Hence interested to know what you find.

Hi whitelighter,

I wouldnt worry about the whole running in thing too much. I have a 2.0 TDi CR 140 Golf Mk6 which I've had since 4700 miles. It was very tight then and clearly hadnt been driven hard at all. It's a company car so i've not babied it at all and its now done 28k (mechanically) trouble free miles. I honestly do not think it matters too much how you drive it, just dont be really soft with it as it will take much longer to loosen up. I suppose try not to drive it too hard from cold...the usual things.

If you've had a PD powered car you will notice that low end power delivery is much softer as is the throttle response on the CR. I think this is one of the shortcomings of the CR engine. This doesnt really improve to be honest but on the whole they do loosen up nicely as the mileage piles on, mid range in particular gets stronger.

Also if its any consolation, given that my car has had a reasonably hard life, it regularly now returns over 60 mpg (has averaged 68 on one 70mph motorway run), not bad given that it's only supposed to return 57mpg and has no Bluemotion Tech on it at all.

Edited 5 May, 201115 yr by pipsyp

When I get my car my daily commute is about 10 mins on the motorway, then stop start around cardiff, then dual carriageway to work... so my car should get a mixture of driving during its life!

Whitelighter, just for comparison. What we found on the dyno for diesel engines on modern cars...is this. Your new engine will be as much as 10%-12% down on power when you first drive it out of the showroom or as little as 6.5%. It varies quite a bit from engine to engine we found (we tested 8 diesel engined cars on our fleet) but for quite a few reasons. However, at 5,000 miles both economy and performance was hugely better. The Mondeo 2ltr diesel for example was 12% more powerful. The 1.9PD engine 10.75% more powerful. Economy up by as much as 14% over a brand new tight engine. All engines met or exceeded the manufacturers power outputs and fuel economy figures. These were our company cars that had been run in correctly by the book for our own purposes of testing and usage. Petrol engines are not quite so affected but it still applies to them too as we found out. I'm afraid I can't publish any of the data readouts from our dyno as this was some 4 years ago and I simply don't have them. But I remember the figures clearly since it was quite an eye opener.

FOOTNOTE: the 'down on power' figures quoted above are the figures calculated based upon the final Dyno tests which took place at 5,000 miles or there abouts. So the 'down on power' figures don't mean the engines were necessarily 10% or 12% down on the actual manufacturers quoted power output figures...just the final Dyno tested figures which in most cases produced power output above the manufacturers quoted figures.

Edited 5 May, 201115 yr by Estate Man

To be honest, I would go by what the manufacturer states for the running in process, due to there being no come-backs during the warranty.

Some advisors say take it easy, others to thrash an engine to bed it in. In motorcycle mags, they have done this and then stripped engines, or dyno'd them to find the thrashed ones often produce MORE power after some mileage, whilst proper run in ones dont.

as you would probably want reliability, I would follow the manual. I am guessing you would have sold it anyway, before reliability became a big problem but Skoda would have to foot any repair if it fails unless you do not run-in and service to schedule.

It is probably quite true that an engine thrashed during running in will produce more power than one run in to manufacturers recommendations.

What has happened is that wear has been accelerated to a point where piston to bore friction is at its optimum.

What is not said is for how long it will produce this power before deterioration causes a power drop off.

A well known oil manufacturer once told me that an engine produces peak performance when doing 500miles to the pint of oil. The power will then drop off substantially and quickly, requiring new pistons, rings etc. probably a new engine.

I want my engine to last, so it was manufactures recommendations to the letter.

Regards

Tony

Hi whitelighter,

I wouldnt worry about the whole running in thing too much. I have a 2.0 TDi CR 140 Golf Mk6 which I've had since 4700 miles. It was very tight then and clearly hadnt been driven hard at all. It's a company car so i've not babied it at all and its now done 28k (mechanically) trouble free miles. I honestly do not think it matters too much how you drive it, just dont be really soft with it as it will take much longer to loosen up. I suppose try not to drive it too hard from cold...the usual things.

If you've had a PD powered car you will notice that low end power delivery is much softer as is the throttle response on the CR. I think this is one of the shortcomings of the CR engine. This doesnt really improve to be honest but on the whole they do loosen up nicely as the mileage piles on, mid range in particular gets stronger.

Also if its any consolation, given that my car has had a reasonably hard life, it regularly now returns over 60 mpg (has averaged 68 on one 70mph motorway run), not bad given that it's only supposed to return 57mpg and has no Bluemotion Tech on it at all.

Pipsyp are you still band from the Volkswagon site for stalking people or has that court order now finished?

Band? Wasn't aware he had any musical capabilities.

Back in the day in production salon car racing the advice was to thrash from new but that the engine would explode after 60k. Oddly most new car warranty's are 60k.................

Back in the day in production salon car racing the advice was to thrash from new but that the engine would explode after 60k. Oddly most new car warranty's are 60k.................

Strangely, about the time a cam-belt often gives up the ghost!