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Changing brake pads/calipers - tech drawings


iPidge

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Hey - first post here so "Hello" also!

I've been lurking here for a while, and have been looking through for advice on how to change the front discs and pads - both here and the 'general web'. THere seems to be a mixed bag of advice, and some of the best stuff comes from the other VAG group sites (a SEAT one in particluar), but a lot of them weren't for my particular brakes.

Then I came across this, and in particular for my needs this image:

VW-09-00-7342L.gif

I found it simple, and as I work best using diagrams, I liked the exploded tech drawings....

So, there you go! This may be old news, and prob won't appeal to most, but if your callipers are FS-III (like mine), FN-3, 2-FN, or your car has rear brakes (!), then it may be of use!!

Take it easy peeps!

Will likely do the boring thing of posting pics when I change them!

Ian, Octavia II 1.6 FSI owner

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So...

Pads and discs done!

All in, cost £38 for mintex DISCS(eBay seller) and and £26 for Pagid pads (euro car parts) - cheaper all in than simply getting new pads at Kwikfit...

And the pictures:

Car getting 'air'..

5893187969_11ae043d57_z.jpg

Old braking gear

5893757090_2f21bc7cb6_z.jpg

Simply remove the 2 calliper bolts (7mm Allen key) and rest on a suitable bucket..

5893191821_e78c1e8676_z.jpg

Use a G clamp to puch back the piston (open the brake fluid bottle cap and decant some out)

5893193677_bd1ff9ca71_z.jpg

Was a faff getting the disc off - rubber mallet was a must! (And of course removing the single torx screw)

5893762768_010a42e364_z.jpg

Plenty of copperslip on the carrier before fitting new disc

5893197963_ec565c5f76_z.jpg

Copperslip on the BACK of the new pads

5893200551_b840c86b51_z.jpg

All fitted back together

5893769404_211e8ca1da_z.jpg

Well, nearly all back on!

5893204545_0909a495b7_z.jpg

So there you go - pretty simple to do, and saves a few quid.

I'm tempted to paint the callipers - not for an 'angry' look (it's just a 1.6!), but to make it look neater - thinking black or silver...??

Any questions, give me a shout!

Ian

Edited by iPidge
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So...

Pads and discs done!

All in, cost £38 for mintex DISCS(eBay seller) and and £26 for Pagid pads (euro car parts) - cheaper all in than simply getting new pads at Kwikfit...

And the pictures:

Car getting 'air'..

5893187969_11ae043d57_z.jpg

Old braking gear

5893757090_2f21bc7cb6_z.jpg

Simply remove the 2 calliper bolts (7mm Allen key) and rest on a suitable bucket..

5893191821_e78c1e8676_z.jpg

Use a G clamp to puch back the piston (open the brake fluid bottle cap and decant some out)

5893193677_bd1ff9ca71_z.jpg

Was a faff getting the disc off - rubber mallet was a must! (And of course removing the single torx screw)

5893762768_010a42e364_z.jpg

Plenty of copperslip on the carrier before fitting new disc

5893197963_ec565c5f76_z.jpg

Copperslip on the BACK of the new pads

5893200551_b840c86b51_z.jpg

All fitted back together

5893769404_211e8ca1da_z.jpg

Well, nearly all back on!

5893204545_0909a495b7_z.jpg

So there you go - pretty simple to do, and saves a few quid.

I'm tempted to paint the callipers - not for an 'angry' look (it's just a 1.6!), but to make it look neater - thinking black or silver...??

Any questions, give me a shout!

Ian

hi there mate..is it the same process for front and rear?cheers in advance..what do you mean by decant?sori struggling a bit with english terms..thanks

Edited by abla
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It's a different process for the rear - not something I've attempted yet (not needed to).

Decant = remove some fluid. When you push the piston back (in order to fit the new pads) it will force fluid back 'into' the brake fluid bottle. If this bottle is already nearly full, it'll spill!

Good luck changing the brakes - it's fairly easy to be honest!

Ian

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  • 6 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for this, always helps to see it done before trying it for the first time.

Did you need a long 7mm hex key, one with an extender handle say, or is a 5inch one enough to get adequate leverage?

ta, Derek

You shouldn't need anything more than that as the threads are fairly well sealed and don't actually take any real stress so don't get too bound up. If you're struggling for leverage then you can use the handle end of the wheel wrench to slip over the handle of the 7mm key for a little extra.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Cloverleaf,

Mixed success in the end. The bolts were not a problem, but I did manage to break the sensor connector on the loom side.

Failed dismally even with the tool to remove the rear pads though, and ended up taking it to the garage.

Derek

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Does anyone know how to remove the rear brake pad carrier on a pd vrs?

There are 2 multi spline bolts behind the brake disc guard which are refusing to come loose!

Just wanted to be ensure they were the right bolts

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Does anyone know how to remove the rear brake pad carrier on a pd vrs?

There are 2 multi spline bolts behind the brake disc guard which are refusing to come loose!

Just wanted to be ensure they were the right bolts

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Yeah they're the right ones, you'll need an M14 spline head (also known as a triple square or XZN) to get em loose, they are a real pig to undo, I'd recommend spraying some penetrating fluid on them and giving it a couple of hours to work in. You'll need some socket extenders and a way to get the car high enough to be able to get some proper leverage on them.

Lots more info here: http://www.briskoda....discpad-change/

Some good guides:

http://www.seatcupra...ad.php?t=225698 (diff car, same setup)

http://www.golfmkv.c...ng front brakes

You'll also need a caliper piston rewind tool for the rears as the calipers twist back in. If you try to use a G-clamp to force them back without twisting you'll likely damage them.

Edited by chr1staylor
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  • 6 months later...

Interesting. I was wondering what type/size head was holding the caliper on. Am a bit concerned that there is no rubber boot covering the outer part of the slide pins. No wonder my caliper is stiff on sliding (insert viagra joke here :giggle: )

So I'll be using a 7mm allen key then eh? - Octavia Elegance 2008 1,.9Tdi estate in red

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Just to let people know. The rear caliper on this vehicle is very different to that on the front. The slide fixings appear to be hex. The outer needing a 13mm ring (you will find a socket won't fit especially on the lower one). and the inner part appears to be 15mm (flat O/E spanner) AND the front is a 7mm allen key - a good deep fit.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

does the rear caliper pistons just push in or do they get screwed in? as the handbrake works off the caliper my old a4 had to screw the pistons back in. i have a 2004 octavia vrs

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  • 1 month later...

On the Mk2 they screw in, you'll damage just trying to push them straight back in, no idea if it's the same for the Mk1, which presumably yours is.

Hiya - Does anyone know if you need to screw the pistons clock- or anti-clockwise please? I got one of the tools that comes with both options, and a zillion fittings!

 

Mine's an '07 vRS

 

Thanks

Edited by wigster
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Clockwise. It'll be tight, but be patient. Use a spanner for extra leverage if you have to as the t-bar that comes with most kits aren't up to the task

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

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  • 3 weeks later...

Great thread guys, so I thought I'd post my experience up. 

 

I did the fronts first, and as others have said, absolute doddle. But ohhhhh dear, what a nightmare the rears were. 

Got the back end jacked up, then realised I didn't have the spline key. Quick trip to my local tool shop, £10 lighter, ready to get started. 

 

Getting the key into the bolts in such a way that you can actually turn them had me doing all sorts of acrobatics under the car, with all manner of combinations of ratchets, extension bars, universal joints, and a breaker bar. Note: If you do get one of these spline keys, try and get a short one. The one I got was probably 3" overall, and I'm pretty sure the job would have been easier if it was more like 1 1/2-2". 

 

Anyway, I had to jack the car up as high as I could get it with my trolley jack, and then finally managed to get enough leverage on the breaker bar to break the bond of the bolts. 

Once that was done, it was actually pretty easy. The caliper wind back tool made quick work of getting the piston back in, dropped the new pads in, job done. 

But.... as the second picture shows, the back disks weren't right! Aaaagggh! 

 

The wife wasn't in, so I had to load 3 disks (two wrong ones and the original) into a packback and get the bike out for a 10 mile journey down to the motor factors I got them from. Turns out it was another issue caused by looking things up using the reg number. The wrong ones were DriveTec brand, and it took the guys about 20 minutes to find the correct ones, which were BluePrint.

 

So, back home, put the proper disk on, left side down, and jack up the offside. This time, because the bolts needed to turn the other way, I really couldn't shift them. After about 1/2 hour, I finally gave up, and had to send it in to the guys I normally use for maintenance. Cost me another £50, but even so, I still think I saved a packet on letting them do the full job. 

 

Would I do it again? Yes, definitely, especially the fronts. The second one only took me about 20 minutes.

 

If you're thinking of doing it though, you will need:

- Decent jack

- At least one axle stand

- Breaker bar

- M14 Spline tool (rears only - c£10)

- Caliper windback tool (rears only, £10 up, depending on what you get)

- Lots of patience for the rears.

And be prepared to let the garage do the rears

 

I'd also recommend:

- cleaning up the rusty bits on the hubs before putting the new disks on

- cleaning up the sliding pins and pad mounting faces, especially on the front.

- I used copper grease on the hub faces before putting the disks on. Someone else in one of the threads has said that there is a more recommended lubricant to use these days though. 

- Again, clean up and put some copper grease onto the back of the wheels where they face onto the hubs. 

post-81141-0-46475700-1377000826_thumb.jpg

post-81141-0-63579600-1377000832_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

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