Okay so yet another question about my Fabia. When I put my foot on the gas/accelerator pedal there is a delay between putting your foot on the pedal and the car revving (I'm going to assume this isn't supposed to happen).

I'm wondering if this is to do with the incorrect ECU code (coded to 00095 instead of 00071) and if the previous owner was driving it around like that for a while, could it have been possible for the ECU to "learn" this lag and program the car to act differently?

How much of a delay is there?

How much of a delay is there?

Um enough to be noticed? And enough to make you stall when pulling away etc

The problem with the coding was likely caused by an ECU update. The person who did the update should have restored the coding.

If you scan the engine, what to you have for controller and component? Armed with this information, I would contact your local dealer to check you have the correct/latest update.

The coding meaning is as follows...

1 - Manual Transmission

OR

3 - Automatic Transmission

add 10 for ABS

add 20 for Airbag

add 40 for Air Conditioning

So 71 means manual transmission with ABS, Airbag and Aircon - 95 doesn't make sense.

Some delay is pretty normal and typical of this engine.

There are a few ECU updates that have been done over time to help with it, coding should be corrected after an update.

I've recoded it but still have the lag. Not sure if it has been updated or not.

Have you tried the reset as per my post;?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/201016-how-to-reset-the-engine-ecu/

Have you tried the reset as per my post;?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/201016-how-to-reset-the-engine-ecu/

Going to try at some point but found out yesterday there's a problem with the back brakes and front bushes are gone in it :/ regretting buying it now...

Going to try at some point but found out yesterday there's a problem with the back brakes and front bushes are gone in it :/ regretting buying it now...

Don't worry to much....they are great little cars....had mine from new since 2001!!! But.....people don't always look after them........oh the main standard things that "go" are the ARB bushes, ARB drop links, console bushes, PAS sensor...all these due to crap original design....newer OEM are improved!!!

P.S......some people on this site will propably add to that list as well..

LOL have no idea how it's passed the MOT, the back brakes are rusty and look as if the car has been standing. However.. front brakes are fine which we don't understand.

I could think of several other things to add to the list lmao

LOL have no idea how it's passed the MOT, the back brakes are rusty and look as if the car has been standing. However.. front brakes are fine which we don't understand.

If you drive the car with just yourself in it the back brakes are not used as much due to the weight transfer during braking to the front brakes...so the rears go rusty from under use and need replacing because this! This applies to any front wheel drive car!!

If you drive the car with just yourself in it the back brakes are not used as much due to the weight transfer during braking to the front brakes...so the rears go rusty from under use and need replacing because this! This applies to any front wheel drive car!!

Oh wow, I never knew that. So you think it's just a simple replace? Well I say simple... nothing has been simple with this car yet -.-

Oh wow, I never knew that. So you think it's just a simple replace? Well I say simple... nothing has been simple with this car yet -.-

Get a Haynes manual for the car (ISBN no 1-84425-376-7) from Halfords or amazon etc.

Rear discs aren't to bad to replace...do you have a torque wrench???

Get a Haynes manual for the car (ISBN no 1-84425-376-7) from Halfords or amazon etc.

Rear discs aren't to bad to replace...do you have a torque wrench???

Already have a Haynes manual and yeah we doo

Already have a Haynes manual and yeah we doo

Brill then the only thing to add to the Haynes for the rear discs is to DEFO use a piston windback tool (Laser make one code 1314 or 3240 £20ish as makes the job easier and reduces the chance on damaging the dust skirt (done the pliers trick :( )

Also brush all the crap off the caliper etc. and use either brake cleaner or meths to get all clean inc the hub (behind disc) very clean as well. Also pull out ( use a blunt flat blade between the gaiter and the pin to help, and it should completely come off...so you have the two pins on their own, the two gaiters on their own, the caliper on it's own and the bracket on it's own.) the concetener gaiters and the slider pins and clean all up and regrease using clear/yellow high temp bearing grease before refitting gaiters and pins.

Also remember to put good quality copper grease on the contact points of the metal backing plate part of the pads to the bracket and calliper. And put blue colour loctite on the bracket to axle hex bolts, and on the caliper to bracket slider pin bolts!!!

Brill then the only thing to add to the Haynes for the rear discs is to DEFO use a piston windback tool (Laser make one code 1314 or 3240 £20ish as makes the job easier and reduces the chance on damaging the dust skirt (done the pliers trick :( )

Also brush all the crap off the caliper etc. and use either brake cleaner or meths to get all clean inc the hub (behind disc) very clean as well. Also pull out ( use a blunt flat blade between the gaiter and the pin to help, and it should completely come off...so you have the two pins on their own, the two gaiters on their own, the caliper on it's own and the bracket on it's own.) the concetener gaiters and the slider pins and clean all up and regrease using clear/yellow high temp bearing grease before refitting gaiters and pins.

Also remember to put good quality copper grease on the contact points of the metal backing plate part of the pads to the bracket and calliper. And put blue colour loctite on the bracket to axle hex bolts, and on the caliper to bracket slider pin bolts!!!

Couldn't help posting a picture of the old brakes...

Edited 4 July, 201114 yr by musicmaster5000

There is nothing wrong with those discs for a MOT test, the pads would pass as well providing that the friction material is over 1.5mm thick.

When the Fabia first came out in 2000, the throttle delay on the 16 valve ones was quite noticeable and there were also the cars on which the air conditioning didn't work, which Skoda eventually found to be an ECU coding issue.

The pads weren't too bad but the discs however.. well you can see they're rusty and pitted. Would have thought it would be down as an advisory or something though? :/

Ooh right I see. Going to reset the ECU anyway and see if that fixes anything and yeah it was a coding issue :(

They'd be an advisory, but not a fail, not that I would want them on my car in that condition.

There wasn't any advisory though :/ ah well brand new disc and pads now. Just having the bushes done tomorrow and hopefully it will be alright.. fingers crossed.

Good job you replaced them...theres a nice rust lip starting there......I bet it looks much better now....remember to go easy on bedding in the new ones!

Good job you replaced them...theres a nice rust lip starting there......I bet it looks much better now....remember to go easy on bedding in the new ones!

I know yeah and lmao I drove it to the garage last night and it was like the hand brake was on >.<

I know yeah and lmao I drove it to the garage last night and it was like the hand brake was on >.<

Did you adjust the handbrake????...as this does need doing after you fit new discs and pads!!!

Dad thinks we didn't screw one of the pistons in far enough on the one side :/

Dad thinks we didn't screw one of the pistons in far enough on the one side :/

Ouch!!......just follow the Haynes on the proceedure....just remove the caliper only (two bolts) and screw the piston all the way in......better do it to the other side as well....when screwing the piston back in did you bled that piston as same time to get rid of fluid???