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felicia 1.3 99 blowing fuses

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hi all we have a felicia 1.3 petrol 1999 that is giving us a few problems :( it cut out last week and had to be towed back and after reading on here about the same issues i changed the hall sensor and the coil pack and it was ok for a day and now the 4th fuse from right to left keeps blowing a 15 amp

any help appreciated thanks

hi all we have a felicia 1.3 petrol 1999 that is giving us a few problems :( it cut out last week and had to be towed back and after reading on here about the same issues i changed the hall sensor and the coil pack and it was ok for a day and now the 4th fuse from right to left keeps blowing a 15 amp

any help appreciated thanks

According to the Haynes manual fourth from the right is fuse 19; 15A for instrument panel and door mirror adjustment. Have you got electric door mirrors? perhaps there could be corrosion in the connections, or have they suffered any recent damage?

  • Author

Sorry it is the 3rd one in which is ignition module,engine control unit,or carburettor,

Sorry it is the 3rd one in which is ignition module,engine control unit,or carburettor,

How did you get along with this problem, is it still popping fuses?

Looking at the appropriate wiring diagram in the Haynes, fuse 20 wires into the fuel pump relay (R5), the ECU, Lambda sensor, ignition switch, DIS coil and various earths.

When does the fuse blow - as soon as it's fitted, as soon as you turn the ignition key, or after running a while...?

Prior to the spate of fuse blowing, did the car run okay or did it start getting a bit rough?

It may be worthwhile substituting the relay if it became a sudden problem.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

How did you get along with this problem, is it still popping fuses?

Looking at the appropriate wiring diagram in the Haynes, fuse 20 wires into the fuel pump relay (R5), the ECU, Lambda sensor, ignition switch, DIS coil and various earths.

When does the fuse blow - as soon as it's fitted, as soon as you turn the ignition key, or after running a while...?

Prior to the spate of fuse blowing, did the car run okay or did it start getting a bit rough?

It may be worthwhile substituting the relay if it became a sudden problem.

hi sorry not been able to reply for a bit working away anyway

the car used to blow a fuse we would replace it and it would be ok for a couple of hours days depending on how long you was out in it,it did blow again and my partner was stuck a green flag recovery guy came out and found out it is all to do with the heater matrix which has not worked since we had the car,by disconnecting the plug into the heater no more problems strange !!

i will be getting the thermostat and heater matrix changed in the next couple of weeks to see what happens

on a positive note its just gone straight through it mot no problems

il let you know what happens when i get the parts for the heater and fit them

  • Author

forgot to say the heater fuse was blown when we got the car so,only when we replaced the heater fuse that the problems started happening

forgot to say the heater fuse was blown when we got the car so,only when we replaced the heater fuse that the problems started happening

I don't know much about the heater matrix but the problem sounds like something shorting out. The matrix itself doesn't appear to be actually wired into the electrics, but forms part of the heater blower assembly (going by the Haynes wiring diagrams again). I should image at this stage you'll get the garage to solve the problem, but out of interest, does the fuse blow as soon as it's fitted into the circuit or when you switch the blower on? It could the relay that's faulty you know.

Good luck with it anyway, and let us all know what the mechanic discovers.

hi there you could see whats conected to that fuse and unplug say the heater fan

  • Author

hi we have disconnected the heater plug and the car is fine the heater does nothing anyway but with the cold months approaching i will be replacing the thermostat and sensor and getting a new matrix to fit over the next month

on looking into the paperwork that came with the car it seems it broke down some time ago and the recovery man who came out wired the heaters windscreen wipers radio on permanently ??? why i dont know but this is what i believe is causing the problems now after the new parts are put on i will see how it goes :)

anyway i drove the car to blackpool and back last week about 250 miles and it is a really nice drive and good on fuel £30 there and back just about lol

only other problem is Ariel is rubbish no radio so any help please

hi there you need to take airel base off and give it a good wire brush as it gets croddeid sorry about my spelling as the rubber disintergrates

  • Author

hi

take it off from under the roof lining ???

thanks

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

hi all

the Ariel problem is sorted the co-ax cable was disconnected a pain in the arse but sorted now

new thermostat and sensor fitted car is showing good temp all the time other thermostat was broke new heater parts to follow to see if heater will work again :p

forgot to say the heater fuse was blown when we got the car so,only when we replaced the heater fuse that the problems started happening

Sounds like a heater motor problem,mine has been stopping ,and blowing it's fuse (3rd one L to R).

Apparently they draw too many amps for the fuse if it doesn't run when connected. :wonder:

Just had it out ,the motor that is,lots of little clips on it's cover (it is just to one side of the wiper motor ), that have a tendency to ping off & disappear.

Sprayed it with WD40,and it's working for now..

Maybe have to replace the thing, they're on Ebay from breaker's.

Edited by iansmith

Have now found that the problem was caused by dry joint bad connection, (now re-soldered by helpful Britannia recovery man :thumbup: , when it conked under Ikea)

on the main battery feed from the starter motor.

I think this caused arcing voltage spikes, on high amps drain when using the heater motor,causing the heater blower fuse to fail.

Its alright again now.

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