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Intermittent turbo problem TDI

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Dear forum

I am sorry if this seems like a repeat of others problems, but I am not sure whether it is!

I have a Skoda Octavia 1.9Tdi Elegance 2003.

The issue is that sometimes when I run the car the turbo does not activate, i.e. there is noticably turbo for accelleration. However the car still runs normally in non turbo conditions and I still can reach reasonable speeds 60 - 80mph, and the MPG is still excellent (50-55mpg), I say intermittent as on some journeys the turbo does work - however these times are more and more infrequent.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to fault find?

Also drivers electric controls in door have stopped working (elec windows), door lock still opens electrically, and windows other than drivers work on thier own control. Initially (april) car blew door fuse every few days, but now but no fuses seem to be blown!

I bought car this April and had a garage change timing belts and service car. I am wondering if they could have knocked anything or if this is just wear and tear?

many thanks for any help

martin

When the turbo has not worked, does it work again for the rest of the trip, or only after you have cycled the ignition?

Any fault codes? There are a number of possible options, in no particular order:

MAF (unlikely though)

n75

CTS

sticky vanes on the turbo

failing actuator on the turbo

vacuum leak

If you drive up a hill in say 3rd gear and accelerate hard, does that make the turbo cut out (putting more load on the engine is the key here).

Edited by mbames

  • Author

Thanks for the reply mbames,

I do not have any fault codes, but no lights come on on dash. What is the CTS? Is there a guide pointing out the location of turbo, MAF, N75, CTS, and relevent pipes on this forum?

On a trip when the turbo has been working, it has always worked for a full trip, and has never failed during hard acceleration. So no never noticed it dropping power going uphill in 3rd (next time it does work I will try putting foot down in 3rd up hill).

On a journey when it does not work, after reading threads on this forum I have tried stopping and restarting enguine. Maybe once it did then activate, and maybe once or twice the turbo started working mid journey.

I reiterate I am pretty sure it has never stopped working on a trip once it has been working earlier.

Martin

Edited by martin360

Couple of Pics here: http://matthewames.co.uk/briskoda/index.php?loc=./20061206_n75

CTS = coolant temp sensor. It has two feeds - one to the dash gauge, and onto the ECU. Sometimes the ECU feed fails. If you have a "green" unit then you have the newer style, old ones are black.

Have you scanned for faults, or just saying there are no faults as there are no lights illuminated on the dash?

You could remove the vacuum pipe between the n75 and turbo and suck it and see if the actuator moves smoothly on the turbo (either by feel, or observation under the car). There should be no creaking, and it should move smoothly over the whole range of travel.

  • Author

No have not had car scanned for faults yet.

What you say about the CTS is interesting as on dash the temp gauge often does not function. (car has done 150K)

will try your test of n75 tube

thanks

Martin

See if you can find someone local to do a scan for you, and take it from there, but I would hazard a guess that a new CTS would not go amiss (or at least checking the wiring!).

If changing the CTS, get a new o-ring too. Place the new o-ring on the new CTS, remove the retaining clip on the old CTS. Quickly remove the old CTS and o-ring. Insert new CTS (and o-ring), disconnect wiring from old CTS (much easier than trying to do on situ) and attach to new unit. If you do this quickly only a few drops of coolant will come out.

Oh, and do it when it is cold, otherwise it might hurt :doh:

Sounds like your vnt is getting stuck common issue turbo needs stripping and cleaning not to hard to do. Very common on these

As already stated sounds like your CTS is failing. Replace with a genuine revised green CTS.

Try unplugging the MAF sensor (located on the large pipe coming from the air filter box) & go for a drive, if the car runs better you have a faulty MAF sensor. Sticking turbo veins is a common problem too.

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