. Remove strut brace/engine cover

. Remove pipe from MAF to TIP (2 crappy clips)

. Remove TIP (2 bolts, 1 crappy clip)

. Remove Intake manifold (6 allen head bolts)

. Remove heat cover off turbo (Two studs

. Remove studs off downpipe (3 studs)

. Remove vac line off turbo actuator (1 crappy clip)

. Remove turbo (8 studs, one nut on bracket, oil feed and oil drain)

. Remove dogdone mount, hoik engine forward.

. Fit turbo and manifold in place.

Then reverse.

Not dead tight, I removed turbo and fitted new one in 2 hours, then manifold and downpipe were changed slighlty to make it easier for us, which Ryan did on fitment roudn 2.

First time round, manifold run very close to Aircon line.

Frigger...

Reading that thread on tdi club makes me laugh..everyone contradicting one another...some says 220hp max on standard nozzles..others say not so...some say wmi doesnt increase power...if thats so how does mine show power increase on the graph wen the wmi is on? (regardless of what the actual bhp truly is) does anyone actually know or is everyone guessing?

so why does my graph show 10bhp more when its on?

The only mechanism I can think of which will give that result (apart from a bent dyno op) is that your EGT's are already far too high and the WMI is bringing them down a bit with a combination of some chamber quenching and inlet charge cooling, if so your turbo/engine is not long for this world.

TBH you're probably better off spraying the stuff onto the intercooler or drinking it, since it seems to me that you've completely hit the buffers with fuelling and you're already leaning off quite badly, possibly because your turbo is slightly too big.

With this engine, the limiting factor is the injectors, once they are at full duty you can go no further, all you can do is look at losses to make sure more of that torque actually shows up at the wheels.

The American TDI guys are quite right, if you need to inject more of anything it's Diesel, except you can't because your injectors are already at full duty.

The only mechanism I can think of which will give that result (apart from a bent dyno op) is that your EGT's are already far too high and the WMI is bringing them down a bit with a combination of some chamber quenching and inlet charge cooling, if so your turbo/engine is not long for this world.

TBH you're probably better off spraying the stuff onto the intercooler or drinking it, since it seems to me that you've completely hit the buffers with fuelling and you're already leaning off quite badly, possibly because your turbo is slightly too big.

With this engine, the limiting factor is the injectors, once they are at full duty you can go no further, all you can do is look at losses to make sure more of that torque actually shows up at the wheels.

The American TDI guys are quite right, if you need to inject more of anything it's Diesel, except you can't because your injectors are already at full duty.

i asked jabba if i put uprated nozzles on if they would make a diff..they said no..i cant believe a professional company with the reputation they have would say that...and as i said on tdi thread they contradict one another re bhp figures achievable on stock nozzles...all very confusing.

Frigger...

Reading that thread on tdi club makes me laugh..everyone contradicting one another...some says 220hp max on standard nozzles..others say not so...some say wmi doesnt increase power...if thats so how does mine show power increase on the graph wen the wmi is on? (regardless of what the actual bhp truly is) does anyone actually know or is everyone guessing?

But the general consensus is that 230bhp is the safe max. Maybe an extra 5/10bhp can be eeeked out, by running a dangerous duration, but that's it.

Honest truth? I believe either the correction factor was changed or absolute pressure was chaged prior to WMI run.

Please come down to the 1/4 mile day, without everyone running on the same dyno, it's the only way this argument is settled.

But the general consensus is that 230bhp is the safe max. Maybe an extra 5/10bhp can be eeeked out, by running a dangerous duration, but that's it.

Honest truth? I believe either the correction factor was changed or absolute pressure was chaged prior to WMI run.

Please come down to the 1/4 mile day, without everyone running on the same dyno, it's the only way this argument is settled.

appreciate your opinion....do you think race injectors would make a diff on mine or anything for that matter?

Guys, there really is no argument here, the vast majority of you 'Big Power' guys will be running at the same level give or take a few percent, stop playing 'Top Trumps' with your silly numbers.

Warwick, you need to delete your sig and wake up, your naivete is touching but you can clearly afford to pay for all this stuff so it's not surprising that you'll find people willing to tell you what you want to hear while taking your money. If you want more, you pay more and you expect to get more. I'm telling you right now that you CAN'T have any more and you need to re-focus on reliability and driveability. FORGET BHP, BHP is for high-revving petrol/methanol/nitro engines, this is ONLY about torque.

The best engine builders in racing are the ones who take a holistic approach and who don't look at anything in isolation, there is no secret to building race winning engines, it's about hard work, experience, skill, intelligence and attention to detail.

The correct development profile for this engine is to determine the maximum amount of fuel you can reliably inject and at what engine speed.

You then tailor the rest of your mods to suit those findings, in practice this means using the smallest possible turbo together with the largest possible intercooler necessary to provide enough oxygen to burn that fuel.

I still think there may be scope for intelligent head modifications and a better camshaft profile designed specifically to increase the spread of torque available across a wider speed range, but peak power won't change a jot, you'll just have more torque available sooner and for longer.

I promise you this, all the breathing mods in the world won't make you go any faster without more fuel.

Guys, there really is no argument here, the vast majority of you 'Big Power' guys will be running at the same level give or take a few percent, stop playing 'Top Trumps' with your silly numbers.

Warwick, you need to delete your sig and wake up, your naivete is touching but you can clearly afford to pay for all this stuff so it's not surprising that you'll find people willing to tell you what you want to hear while taking your money. If you want more, you pay more and you expect to get more. I'm telling you right now that you CAN'T have any more and you need to re-focus on reliability and driveability. FORGET BHP, BHP is for high-revving petrol/methanol/nitro engines, this is ONLY about torque.

The best engine builders in racing are the ones who take a holistic approach and who don't look at anything in isolation, there is no secret to building race winning engines, it's about hard work, experience, skill, intelligence and attention to detail.

The correct development profile for this engine is to determine the maximum amount of fuel you can reliably inject and at what engine speed.

You then tailor the rest of your mods to suit those findings, in practice this means using the smallest possible turbo together with the largest possible intercooler necessary to provide enough oxygen to burn that fuel.

I still think there may be scope for intelligent head modifications and a better camshaft profile designed specifically to increase the spread of torque available across a wider speed range, but peak power won't change a jot, you'll just have more torque available sooner and for longer.

I promise you this, all the breathing mods in the world won't make you go any faster without more fuel.

I fully appreciate your frankness sep and im willing to listen as like i say im new to diesels after having fast petrols all my life..as i said im not bragging bout nothing..mearly stating the figures jabba showed on the dyno print out..if they are tweaked to suit themselves im not to know..i would like to know what figures it gives on another dyno though...not sure if i'd actually like more power as the car drives superb,pulls like a train all the way to over 5000rpm and is very quick as it is...looking for more power may result in problems so mite be best left as it is...

sig changed..

I've just bought this turbo kit so my car will have more power and be faster than anyone elses :p

I've just bought this turbo kit so my car will have more power and be faster than anyone elses :p

******! Lol I bought it too but mine will be faster than yours lol :p

so wilsy gets 190 bhp off a map but according to the experts a big turbo & fmic only adds 30bhp to mine...

so wilsy gets 190 bhp off a map but according to the experts a big turbo & fmic only adds 30bhp to mine...

Dynos over read don't forget

Warwick, dry your eyes mate.

Your engine is producing a LOT more torque, and I don't mean daft PEAK figures.

Look at the AREA under your TORQUE curve, IGNORE the BHP completely, it will be massively bigger than wilsy7. Think China compared to India.

Area under the curve is where it's at, that area means more acceleration assuming you can get the traction.

BTW, if you don't have an ATB diff, GET ONE!

ive got an lsd ..never had wheelspin yet....so sep..iyo will race injectors or anything else make a difference?

ive got an lsd ..never had wheelspin yet....so sep..iyo will race injectors or anything else make a difference?

Lol at the new sig

Lol at the new sig

sep said had to change...

******! Lol I bought it too but mine will be faster than yours lol :p

Race for log books ?

Race for log books ?

Lol deal

Yep standard injectors, nope not useless, but not used to full potential at all.

If you just want 230bhp, GTB2056 is probaly the best way to go, or even the GTB1756VK

The boost psi shown on the darkside site, so for the 2056, 34 PSI is that max boost? Or the boost it's running for 260bhp?

will be the max to avoid damage.

will be the max to avoid damage.

Cheers

So following the trend, 260bhp is the MAX bhp?

If 34psi is max how far below that would I need to run for it not to be pushed? I just want to know that my turbo won't be stressed and will be very reliable

Edited 26 August, 201114 yr by wilsy7

The boost psi shown on the darkside site, so for the 2056, 34 PSI is that max boost? Or the boost it's running for 260bhp?

1/ Max safe boost to avoid damaging the turbo.

2/ 260BHP is the theoretical limit. Everything between the air inlet and exhaust tip can act together to restrict flow or limit power. Realistically, even with the Darkside kit, on a 2056, I'd expect 210-220BHP on their rollers, maybe 230, as the hot side of the 2056 is bigger and apparently more efficient than the earlier VNT designs. If I mention the "I" word, well, if you buy them too, maybe that gets you the extra 20-40 BHP.

J.

Lol deal

Let's settle it on the street proper F&F style PMSL

Something something darkside.