is it just bad luck ?

we recentley changed the coolant and thermostat (old was failed) and flushed and used collant cleaner.. everything fine after that for like 4 days also changed the conatiner and cap well my guess is that the cap has failed, noticed hozes been abit harder then normally (not extreme.. just abit)... anyone thinks could be anything else then the cap valve? it dont mix oil and water or something like that

it bursted when engine was off so well no damage just very annoying since not got a new hoze and need car tommorow

Radiator hoses harden with heat and age. You may have sped up the failure by doing the cooling system clean and fitting a new and hence fully healthy pressure cap, but the hose would have gone sooner or later anyway, so I'd say it's basically co-incidence.

I would buy new top and bottom hoses though, because you'll probably be needing the other one soon.

took 2 used fore like 4 £ (using them for like 3 weeks..) and orderd 2 new they costed like 24 £ for both so well wasnt to expensive, cap and cantainer isnt new but well better condition cap doesnt seem to release any pressure so il use old from now since i know it works. just the fun part now get the screwed clamps off the hoze from the radiator.. they are both in odd angle must have been put on when someone had radiator out off car.... rusted and etc .. i soo not want to remove radiator

If and only if the hose clips in question are genune Terry Jubilee Clips (Proper name of manufacturer and product) then you should be ablt to buy a special tool for them for about £10 (UK price).

those clips u mention are replaced on some places on the car ( if u mean those quick open/close once). i got normal screw on clamps on some places including those 2 on radiator, wich seem to have been mounted when radiator was out off car since its impossible get something on them and turn them.

A real Jubilee clip illustrated. Other brands that don't have both the hexagonal head and the screw slot in it, as well as the full width band are not Jubilee clips, but merely worm drive clips.

If you have real Jubilee clips, the right driver will work petty much wherever the drive is, and a 1/4" drive socket will probably work too.

was those and the normal quick open mixed everywhere in car managed top get all off after a while, now just wait for new hozes to arrivew

now we got another problem, it can boil even though fan is cooling(ac started) and get heat inside car, and it can drain al fluid in container when driving like 15~18 miles.... no obvious leak and engine seem to work as it should... it moves when using throttle.. alot

Ok, "as they come" list of common causes of over-heating:-

1) Thermostat stuck closed. Of course, if this happens, the engine fan shouldn't cut in (at least on higher speeds; not sure about a Felly with air, but on the Octy, the fan runs slow when the air's on, and faster when the radiator gets above a certain temperature).

2) Radiator thermoswitch which controls the fan speed has failed.

3) Radiator is blocked. At any point during the recent works, were the block and radiator flushed? If so, then it's unlikely the radiator is blocked.

4) Head gasket failure. Look for signs of water in the oil, oil in the water, and do a coolant exhaust gas test to confirm/deny this.

5) SOmething else I've not thought of.

Ok, "as they come" list of common causes of over-heating:-

1) Thermostat stuck closed. Of course, if this happens, the engine fan shouldn't cut in (at least on higher speeds; not sure about a Felly with air, but on the Octy, the fan runs slow when the air's on, and faster when the radiator gets above a certain temperature).

2) Radiator thermoswitch which controls the fan speed has failed.

3) Radiator is blocked. At any point during the recent works, were the block and radiator flushed? If so, then it's unlikely the radiator is blocked.

4) Head gasket failure. Look for signs of water in the oil, oil in the water, and do a coolant exhaust gas test to confirm/deny this.

5) SOmething else I've not thought of.

1. old was stuck and the oring around it was in bits so water could go past it anyways. Theres a new one in but well... the bottom hoze is cold... so well I will return that termostat.. costed like 29 £ should last longer then 1 week, it has worked since hoze got hot before.

2. Replaced with a new one from vw.

3. Radiator flushed so it not blocked,

4. No oil in water but got some grey mess in the water not sure what it is but its not acting as oil and dont mix with water just stick to plastic.

I think (1) may be the root of the problems, but I'm concerned about (4) as well.

It could be limescale or similar, but that only applies if you refilled the system with tap water and live in a hard water area.

More seriously, it could be combustion chamber to waterway head gasket failure. The coolant gas test I talked about typically costs about 10GBP; no idea about costs in Sweden though.

I think (1) may be the root of the problems, but I'm concerned about (4) as well.

It could be limescale or similar, but that only applies if you refilled the system with tap water and live in a hard water area.

More seriously, it could be combustion chamber to waterway head gasket failure. The coolant gas test I talked about typically costs about 10GBP; no idea about costs in Sweden though.

if the fully synthetic oil getin the water? how would it look ? i mean will they mix or just seperate? got some oil( other fluid there but i suspect the thermostat failed big time and the wax / metal mix in it got out ( it is wax/copper powder right?) atleats thats what seem to have ended up in coolant...

if the fully synthetic oil getin the water? how would it look ? i mean will they mix or just seperate? got some oil( other fluid there but i suspect the thermostat failed big time and the wax / metal mix in it got out ( it is wax/copper powder right?) atleats thats what seem to have ended up in coolant...

If oil gets into the cooling system, it usually looks like oil floating on water, or mayonaisse (In English, it is a mayonaisse, because that's any mixture of oil and water. Anyway, it would be a white creamy substance, probably in the radiator header, and possibly also in the camshaft/rocker cover {depends on engine which it is}).

I've no idea what the wax would look like in liquid form, but it would solidify when the engine's cold.

If oil gets into the cooling system, it usually looks like oil floating on water, or mayonaisse (In English, it is a mayonaisse, because that's any mixture of oil and water. Anyway, it would be a white creamy substance, probably in the radiator header, and possibly also in the camshaft/rocker cover {depends on engine which it is}).

I've no idea what the wax would look like in liquid form, but it would solidify when the engine's cold.

cant really tell since theres no white in oil / camshaft cover. just some transparent oil on the water... not always but sometimes. maybe is time for a compression test, have one here somewhere

cant really tell since theres no white in oil / camshaft cover. just some transparent oil on the water... not always but sometimes. maybe is time for a compression test, have one here somewhere

That could be an oil/water way gasket failure, but once you've got one of those, it usually gets worse.

It's unlike to show up on a compression test, since that tests peak pressure in the cylinders, which is usally governed by the piston ring to bore seal, and the sealing of the valves to the head.

That could be an oil/water way gasket failure, but once you've got one of those, it usually gets worse.

It's unlike to show up on a compression test, since that tests peak pressure in the cylinders, which is usally governed by the piston ring to bore seal, and the sealing of the valves to the head.

got the thermostat replacd since was something obvious wrong with it just got to replace it later this evening, looked at water this mornig (since we had to empty and it boiled etc theres no antifreeze in it) slight yellow tone on water. engine runs as it should but as you say as it mostlikley not in to cylinders no compression leaks that way