Replacing rear number plate bolts

[stevenc]

I want to replace the plastic rear number plate bolts on my estate as the dealer has not only mangled the slots in the end of the bolts, but has also used a rusty screwdriver that has stained the bolt head.

Am I correct in thinking I have to take the inner tailgate trim off, and if so does anyone have any instructions on how to do it as there don't seem to be any obvious screws to remove. Is it a matter of prising it off and hoping you don't break anything!

[DanceMaster]

I want to replace the plastic rear number plate bolts on my estate as the dealer has not only mangled the slots in the end of the bolts, but has also used a rusty screwdriver that has stained the bolt head.

Am I correct in thinking I have to take the inner tailgate trim off, and if so does anyone have any instructions on how to do it as there don't seem to be any obvious screws to remove. Is it a matter of prising it off and hoping you don't break anything!

The plastic bolts just screw straight into the tailgate. There are two threaded inserts fitted to the tailgate

No need to remove any trim from inside.

[silver1011]

Mine have done the same.

Its not a rusty screwdriver that has been used, the metal screw has rusted and has leached out into the plastic head.

These are the old type that used to be used. The screw head sits inside an enclosed cap. When it rusts it can't be seen.

The second picture is the new type, the screw head has a very thin layer of plastic over it, when it is screwed in the plastic is damaged. When it starts to rust it can be seen much more easily

As above no need to remove internal trim, simply back the screws out as they screw through the number plate directly into the boot lid.

Be warned, some dealers do not use the pre-threaded holes and simply use self-tapping screws straight into the paintwork

[FUBAR]

go back to dealers and say "here you did this fix it please"

[ruffday]

Well your pics show 2 types of fixing but they are not old or new types they are just different.

Both types are still widley used and you can also get plastic nuts and bolts.

Im in the number plate industry and we sell all types by the thousand its just what every the dealer prefer.

I normally fit mine with double sided sticky pads as I think they look better without the screws sticking out.

Edited 2 September, 2011 by ruffday

[silver1011]

The screw type in my first picture has been around longer than the one in the second picture.

Most new cars have the second type fitted these days.

Agreed sticky tape looks better but is more likely to fail and leave your number plate at the side of the road.

[Gizmo]

Agreed sticky tape looks better but is more likely to fail and leave your number plate at the side of the road.

Have you ever tried removing a stuck on plate that has been (and this is the important bit) fitted correctly with some decent (ie 3M) adhesive foam? What tends to happen is you cut through the foam leaving both the plate and the car to remove the residue left.

The ones that have fallen off will of been either applied with crap tape or to a dirty/wet surface.

Alternatively some number plate holders/surrounds are another good way to get 'invisible fixings'

[silver1011]

Exactly, I'm guessing a lot of people don't use the proper tape.

Using a jet wash, going through a big puddle, a hot summers day, frost, slamming the boot, car washes, etc. will all expose an inappropriate tape.

Think I'll stick with screws.

[skodacarman]

How about try stainless steel screws and slaver them with copper grease prior to insert and to help protect the sockets from rust.

[jrw]

The screw type in my first picture has been around longer than the one in the second picture.

Most new cars have the second type fitted these days.

Agreed sticky tape looks better but is more likely to fail and leave your number plate at the side of the road.

Not on the back. They're the self tapping type. Both my bora and the octy have pre threaded holes which mate up with the awful plastic screws. The whole thing is plastic and they eventually seize into the hole with the only option but the drill the screw out and get pliers on it!

I presume you can get replacement ones but I've only removed mine to put metal plates on so haven't needed them.

[jrw]

Have you ever tried removing a stuck on plate that has been (and this is the important bit) fitted correctly with some decent (ie 3M) adhesive foam? What tends to happen is you cut through the foam leaving both the plate and the car to remove the residue left.

The ones that have fallen off will of been either applied with crap tape or to a dirty/wet surface.

Alternatively some number plate holders/surrounds are another good way to get 'invisible fixings'

yes, I tried to remove rear plate on my old golf id stuck on a couple of years before. Gave up in the end as I was afraid of pulling the paint off with it!

Suffice to say 9 years later that plate is still on there!

[silver1011]

Not on the back. They're the self tapping type. Both my bora and the octy have pre threaded holes which mate up with the awful plastic screws. The whole thing is plastic and they eventually seize into the hole with the only option but the drill the screw out and get pliers on it!

My front and rears are the self tapping type (second picture).

Agreed, there are pre-drilled threaded holes in the boot lid but these holes accepted the self tappers.

I've seen the plastic ones you describe but have only ever used these together with the plastic bolts on my bike number plate...

[cjb]

Have you ever tried removing a stuck on plate that has been (and this is the important bit) fitted correctly with some decent (ie 3M) adhesive foam? What tends to happen is you cut through the foam leaving both the plate and the car to remove the residue left.

The ones that have fallen off will of been either applied with crap tape or to a dirty/wet surface.

Yep, I've never had a plate fall off. Use good tape, clean the surface properly.

[ruffday]

The screw type in my first picture has been around longer than the one in the second picture.

Most new cars have the second type fitted these days.

Agreed sticky tape looks better but is more likely to fail and leave your number plate at the side of the road.

As I said we sell thousands of each and probably more of the older type as they are cheaper.

If fitted with proper number plate sticky pads they dont just fall off.

[stevenc]

Thanks for the information - silver1011 was absolutely correct about the bolts. Mine had the type in the second picture. My car is only 8 months old and the bolts are already rusting nicely and really unsightly (why can't they use stainless steel for fastenings like this?). I was also shocked to realise how vulnerable the number plate was to theft - I had it unscrewed from the car in about 30 secs!

Anyway I have new bolts fitted now. I had some of the all plastic type which consist of a bolt and a nut as commonly used on motorcycle number plates that I wanted to use.

I removed the rear panel of the tailgate and popped out the plastic blocks that the number plate bolts screw into out. I then just used the all plastic versions with a couple of plastic washers for spacers and applied a bit of threadlock for good measure. Should be no rusting now with the added bonus of it being harder to nick the number plate.

[ruffday]

You can et tamper proof plates but not many people will pay for them.

There was some talk a while ago about put legislation through to make it mandatory but the cost was too much.

Basically the plate is constucted so that when it is removed the reflctive or the acrylic seperates and makes them unusable.

The downside is that they cost around £80 a pair.