After speaking with SUK on Tuesday, they said no re call, each case will be dealt with individually, this involves oil usage test, then replace breather then run the car then take it back because it is still the same then another oil usage test then a few calls and emails and eventually a new engine but that could also be the same as your last engine and the saga continues

I refused to have piston rings when they thought that would solve the issue!! I said i wanted a new engine which they were considering, then to my advantage the fuel pump packed in and the car broke to which i demanded the new engine which they did

ive seen lots of people mention they have had an ECU update, and im just wondering who and which cars are meant to get this? I've got a CAVE engine code, but never had any problems with oil usage. It went through a bit, but nothing compared to others here, and its done 12.5k now, and had a service at 9.5k, so hopefully it won't use anymore. I mentioned the ECU update to my local dealer once when i was there, and they seemed to almost pretend they didn't have a clue what i was talking about.

any ECU updates will be done automatically at service, they plug it into the on-line system, it checks the map, and if it isn't the current one that should be on there, it updates it.

ive seen lots of people mention they have had an ECU update, and im just wondering who and which cars are meant to get this? I've got a CAVE engine code, but never had any problems with oil usage. It went through a bit, but nothing compared to others here, and its done 12.5k now, and had a service at 9.5k, so hopefully it won't use anymore. I mentioned the ECU update to my local dealer once when i was there, and they seemed to almost pretend they didn't have a clue what i was talking about.

Ours was re mapped and it now seems to have more torque and changes up sooner, before the map it was keen to rev to 5/6k before changing up and also keen to change down at motorway speeds when pressing on, now it stays in 7th unless you kick it down, it plods around in 5th and even 6th at 30 mph! I prefer it to how it was. I think the reason for it is to load the engine more through the gears

any ECU updates will be done automatically at service, they plug it into the on-line system, it checks the map, and if it isn't the current one that should be on there, it updates it.

ok, cheers.

and has anyone who has had an ECU update from their dealer noticed any difference?

Ours was re mapped and it now seems to have more torque and changes up sooner, before the map it was keen to rev to 5/6k before changing up and also keen to change down at motorway speeds when pressing on, now it stays in 7th unless you kick it down, it plods around in 5th and even 6th at 30 mph! I prefer it to how it was. I think the reason for it is to load the engine more through the gears

and has anyone who has had an ECU update from their dealer noticed any difference?

See above. It does make a noticeable difference

there was a cold start misfire map update a while back, it was done at my 10k service (I'm past 40k now) and it fixed the rough cold start idle.... I would assume you peeps with the newer cars will have received them with this update...

See above. It does make a noticeable difference

oh sorry mate, when you said 'remapped' i presumed you meant properly remapped by a tuning company.

sometimes and my car has a rough idle when cold for 10-15 seconds or so until it settles just below 1000rpm. But, like i said, its had a service, so if it needed an update i guess it would have had it. Cheers for the info guys.

Well, my car has been in and out of the local garage for the last few months whilst they tried various things, including the breather pipe fix and any other updates the car was elligible for.

Final result, the car has just used 800ml of oil to cover 249 miles. I'm absolutely gutted, as it seems this will now be new engine time. I was wondering what my options would be now at this point.

I have always stayed away from cars with engine replacements, especially performance models. It screams 'This car was ragged within an inch of its life and the engine went pop, what else is it hiding?' I'm also concerned of the consequential damage if it isn't a full engine swap that other parts of the engine will have incurred due to potential oil starvation. Furthermore, where did all this oil go? if it was out the exhaust, what damage is there to the catalytic convertor?

Important thing to note is I bought the car from a different dealership to the one all the work has been done at. The issue was raised with my local dealership at the first service, 4 months after buying the car. I bought the car as second hand, with I believe 1600 miles on the clock.

Ideal world? I want to reject the car and get a replacement or refund in that order of preference. I've totally lost confidence in it, and if I'm honest, I'm not sure I'd want another 1.4 TSI to replace it.

If thats not possible, I want significant showings from Skoda to re-establish brand confidence.

Interested to know what everyone else has managed.

Well, my car has been in and out of the local garage for the last few months whilst they tried various things, including the breather pipe fix and any other updates the car was elligible for.

Final result, the car has just used 800ml of oil to cover 249 miles. I'm absolutely gutted, as it seems this will now be new engine time. I was wondering what my options would be now at this point.

I have always stayed away from cars with engine replacements, especially performance models. It screams 'This car was ragged within an inch of its life and the engine went pop, what else is it hiding?' I'm also concerned of the consequential damage if it isn't a full engine swap that other parts of the engine will have incurred due to potential oil starvation. Furthermore, where did all this oil go? if it was out the exhaust, what damage is there to the catalytic convertor?

Important thing to note is I bought the car from a different dealership to the one all the work has been done at. The issue was raised with my local dealership at the first service, 4 months after buying the car. I bought the car as second hand, with I believe 1600 miles on the clock.

Ideal world? I want to reject the car and get a replacement or refund in that order of preference. I've totally lost confidence in it, and if I'm honest, I'm not sure I'd want another 1.4 TSI to replace it.

If thats not possible, I want significant showings from Skoda to re-establish brand confidence.

Interested to know what everyone else has managed.

I managed to lose faith in Skoda... Currently trying to reject my car but process isn't quick

Just checked my oil, new CTHE engine code, had add 250ml at 500 miles, this morning, 1004 miles and added 1250ml.

Have logged with the dealer, they are going to do a report to Skoda with this news so far, I'm just covering myself as it's a lot to use in 500 miles.

It is... I checked at just over 500 miles and it was perfect, no oil used.

Are in again for the lottery here?

Are you checking your oil 5-10 mins after you switched the engine off having the oil up to 90C?

Probably you did, just checking...

I checked once and it looked like it had more oil then my previous check.

Why don't you leave it and wait until the orange (not red) oil light comes on?

Hi,

My wife told me the light came on yesterday, it was the one at the top of Maxidot, big amber one and message saying check oil.

Dipped oil and nothing on the stick, nothing. Added 250ml, still nothing, another 250 and nothing, another 250 and just the ball at the bottom covered, kept adding 250ml at 5 minute intervals until 1000ml had been added and it was half way in the hatched area. Drove until 84c temperature, waited exactly 5 minutes on level ground and dipped, it was near the top of the hatched area so added another 250 to get it to the top.

EDIT: I wasn't brave enough to drive it before adding any oil.

Edited 14 November, 201213 yr by MilgeS

Oh, if the light came on then you did right not driving any more. I am really cheesed off that the CTHE motors with the oil consumption problems supposedly cured stil drink it...Perhaps your one is a fluke, a non-related issue? Any oil puddles under your car? Any oily spots on your rear bumper, side of the car? Maybe its just an oil leak easily fixable...

Nothing obvious. surprised as I thought another 250ml for 500 miles was what I expected. I'll monitor it after another 500 miles and see what the dealer comes up with too. I washed the car while adding the oil and after the 15 minute drive around and back home there were some sooty marks on the rear of the car, easily wiped off, not oily.

Nothing obvious. surprised as I thought another 250ml for 500 miles was what I expected. I'll monitor it after another 500 miles and see what the dealer comes up with too. I washed the car while adding the oil and after the 15 minute drive around and back home there were some sooty marks on the rear of the car, easily wiped off, not oily.

So you've added 1.250ml in 500 miles ? On the newer CTHE engine ? What is the mileage on the clock at the moment , what is the general usage per 1000 miles ?, if its higher than the recommend amount I'd get it checked out , hasn't it been picked up already that the newer engine still uses more than it should? As for it being a fluke ? Get it checked

Nothing obvious. surprised as I thought another 250ml for 500 miles was what I expected. I'll monitor it after another 500 miles and see what the dealer comes up with too. I washed the car while adding the oil and after the 15 minute drive around and back home there were some sooty marks on the rear of the car, easily wiped off, not oily.

The soot will be oil ? Many vrs owners have said they've had this sooty deposit on the rear, I used to get with our diesel

Edited 14 November, 201213 yr by seboni121

"The soot will be oil ?"

You see that statement is just wrong!

Us that do not use oil other than lubricating the engine but get soot can not be producing the Soot from oil.

I believe we produce it from Petroleum .

25 mpg when cold and pottering around, runs a bit rich, and getting some soot built up in the exhaust..

50 mpg when up to heat & producing no soot but give it a blast and blow the built up soot from when it was running richer right out the exhaust.

Now that can happen in a vRS using up no oil.

EDIT, to your Edit.

I see you changed that to 'sooty deposit on the rear'. & a ?.

I have read about Oily Deposit on the rear & sooty deposit on the rear.

2 very different things.

'Oil' would worry me,

Soot on an exhaust or Soot specks on the paint work would not.

george

Dosnt petrol come from oil ? Anyway I've put a ? Behind this quote but if milge8 has filled up with 1.250 ml of oil in 500 miles ? Surely needs checking ? Do petrol cars have sooty deposits on the rear usually ? Not making a statement just asking the question non of my petrol cars have had sooty deposit, won't this damage the cat ?

'Does oil not come from dead trees & wildlife?'

Some of the cars that have had new or rebuilt engines because of excessive oil consumption have had New Cats fitted at the time under warranty,

& i think they should all get that.

As to running rich & soot.

Lets see when the cars get to 3 years & have an emission check at the MOT.

A good reason to get the car MOT'd the month before it is due or the warranty is out

& then get the 3 year service done in that order , get your Warranty Work done before it expires.

My engine has been on the analyzer each time its been on the Dyno & i have been messing about with air filters etc,

& the Cat is doing its job just fine & the Emissions are just fine.

Around 3500 miles covered since last oil change & no oil topped up, almost 400 litres of Tesco Momentum used.

(44 litres of Sainsbury Super & back to Momentum.)

george

'Does oil not come from dead trees & wildlife?'

Some of the cars that have had new or rebuilt engines because of excessive oil consumption have had New Cats fitted at the time under warranty,

& i think they should all get that.

As to running rich & soot.

Lets see when the cars get to 3 years & have an emission check at the MOT.

A good reason to get the car MOT'd the month before it is due or the warranty is out

& then get the 3 year service done in that order , get your Warranty Work done before it expires.

My engine has been on the analyzer each time its been on the Dyno & i have been messing about with air filters etc,

& the Cat is doing its job just fine & the Emissions are just fine.

george

Yes George dead trees n stuff lol, thankfully your cats doing its job for now but if clogging up is an issue ? How long does this take and what is the issue if it does block ? , I've the same issue with dpf but I run it on vpower and rag it so hopefully no issues, but for the folks that drive cars like their 105 will have issues ?

The soot will be oil ? Many vrs owners have said they've had this sooty deposit on the rear, I used to get with our diesel

You say that but my 520d has its pipe so clean I could eat from it, honestly sparkling clean metal with no traces of anything at all and I never cleaned it as long as I own it. Badly tuned diesels soot up massively as they are run waay too rich. Same would be with petrols running rich. If you look at rally or race cars they are covered in black soot from their zorsts.

I am off to fit my £12 Tesco rubber mats now

Yes George dead trees n stuff lol, thankfully your cats doing its job for now but if clogging up is an issue ? How long does this take and what is the issue if it does block ? , I've the same issue with dpf but I run it on vpower and rag it so hopefully no issues, but for the folks that drive cars like their 105 will have issues ?

You will fail MOT as cat will not be catalysing (active surface area covered by un-burnt fuel mixed with oil). In extreme cases the cat may clogged so badly that your motor will not run at all - equivalent of sticking a potato into your exhaust pipe .

Giving it a prolonged trashing in most cases will raise the cat temp sufficiently to burn off such deposits and all is fine, cat as new.

So you've added 1.250ml in 500 miles ? On the newer CTHE engine ? What is the mileage on the clock at the moment , what is the general usage per 1000 miles ?, if its higher than the recommend amount I'd get it checked out , hasn't it been picked up already that the newer engine still uses more than it should? As for it being a fluke ? Get it checked

1004 miles on the clock, it's brand new. I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow or Friday to check they've logged it, they have asked me to check again at the next 500 miles, I'll probably check every 100 now to be more precise.