Hi all,

I am in desperate need of help. Please help!!

My Skoda Fabia 1.4 has gone haywire lately. About a month ago the car displayed the engine management light for a few days but it then went. As it went I thought no more about it. Very soon after the ABS/ASR light came on. It was diagnosed as a bad return flow pump so I have sourced a second hand one of the same type for replacement. However, by the time the pump arrived, the car now shows a PAS warning light and has no power steering whatsoever.

I took the car today for an alternator and battery check incase it was overcharging - all was well and the alternators output was about 13.98v.

Here is a list of the most recent fault codes displayed on my VAG-COM. Sadly, I cannot get into either; a) the Engine Management Unit as it says "can't sync baud rate" or, the PAS Controller as it says "no response from module".

_______________________

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

Control Module Part Number: 6Q0 907 379 D

Component and/or Version: ABS/ASR 5.7 FRONT V00

Software Coding: 00124

Work Shop Code: WSC 13765

2 Faults Found:

01314 - Engine Control Module

49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

00301 – Return Flow Pump

35-00 –

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

Control Module Part Number: 6Q1 937 049 B

Component and/or Version: BORDNETZ-SG. 1S31

Software Coding: 25754

Work Shop Code: WSC 13765

3 Faults Found:

01598 - Drive Battery Voltage

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

1314 - Engine Control Module: No Communications

49-10 - Intermittent

01309 – Power Steering Control Module (J500)

49-00 – No Communications

If anyone can shed some light on this problem, I would be eternally greatul. I have alredy been to some garages to look into it but they have said I'll need to change the PAS pump at the same time as the ABS Pump. I find it difficult to believ that two components like this could fail especially when the car is only used for a max of one day a week.

Thanking you in advance!

Daniel

ISTR that a healthy alternator (no heavy drain items on) should be putting out about 14.3v at idle.

Looks like battery and or alternator problem, the fault "Drive Battery Voltage" is the key. Without a proper supply, the electrics will log all sorts of problems. Could also be one of the fuses on top of the battery (metal link fuses) or battery earth cable. Alternator should be putting out 14.3 volts.

happened in my vrs,was driving along and the abs,traction control and handbrake lights came on at once, about a mile up the road the powersteering went near put the car through a gate post, the clutch bearing or something on the alternator was shot, got a new belt and an alternator from the scrappers and then back to normal!

ISTR that a healthy alternator (no heavy drain items on) should be putting out about 14.3v at idle.

Hi there, thanks for your reply.

That was when drain was applied, I think at idle it was slightly lower. I think I'll change the alternator as a first step.

Cheers

Looks like battery and or alternator problem, the fault "Drive Battery Voltage" is the key. Without a proper supply, the electrics will log all sorts of problems. Could also be one of the fuses on top of the battery (metal link fuses) or battery earth cable. Alternator should be putting out 14.3 volts.

Hi there, thanks for your reply.

The fuses at the top of the battery are all fine. I have taken off and cleaned the earth locations. The alternator is not giving that voltage, so I think I'll change that first.

Thanks again for your reply

Daniel

happened in my vrs,was driving along and the abs,traction control and handbrake lights came on at once, about a mile up the road the powersteering went near put the car through a gate post, the clutch bearing or something on the alternator was shot, got a new belt and an alternator from the scrappers and then back to normal!

Hi there, thanks for your reply.

That is just like this car. All of a sudden and theres really no way they could all could fail at the same time. I will change the alternator as a first step.

Many thanks

Dan

this has happened to mine (twice) and both times it has been a fault with corrosion with the the wiring loom that runs down the passenger side fornt of the car and mine was showing pretty much the same codes as yours

this has happened to mine (twice) and both times it has been a fault with corrosion with the the wiring loom that runs down the passenger side fornt of the car and mine was showing pretty much the same codes as yours

Thanks for that. It sounds expensive - out of interest do you remember what you paid.

Double check the strip fuses that are bolted to the top of the battery, one of them develops a hairline crack which will throw the ABS flow return pump code.

The intermittents look like a power supply problem. Is the blue load wire from the alternator intact, it breaks inside the plug on the front of the engine.

Is the battery OK, if it can't tranfer the electricity quick enough or can't hold a reserve of it, you'll get problems.

Can you look at the measuring blocks in the steering system, if the sensor is reporting steering wheel angualr velocity when there is none, the steering system will be taking up to 60 amps and as the car has load management it'll prioritise the steering over other things.

Double check the strip fuses that are bolted to the top of the battery, one of them develops a hairline crack which will throw the ABS flow return pump code.

The intermittents look like a power supply problem. Is the blue load wire from the alternator intact, it breaks inside the plug on the front of the engine.

Is the battery OK, if it can't tranfer the electricity quick enough or can't hold a reserve of it, you'll get problems.

Can you look at the measuring blocks in the steering system, if the sensor is reporting steering wheel angualr velocity when there is none, the steering system will be taking up to 60 amps and as the car has load management it'll prioritise the steering over other things.

Hi there

Thanks for you comment. The wire from the alternator appears to be intact at the alternator end, i've taken it off and cleaned it as well. I will check the other end of the cable. The battery is a known good one from another car.

Sadly I cant get in to any of the measuring blocks on the steering system and have discovered that the "central electric module" now claims:

Control Module Part Number: 6Q1 937 049 B

Component and/or Version: BORDNETZ-SG. 1S31

Software Coding: 25754

Work Shop Code: WSC 13765

3 Faults Found:

01598 - Drive Battery Voltage

27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

1314 - Engine Control Module: No Communications

49-10 - Intermittent

01309 – Power Steering Control Module (J500)

49-00 – No Communications.

Its becoming a nightmare.

Cheers

Dan

Worth getting full VCDS I think. Version 409.1 is usually the version you download off the internet and use an older cheapo cable with - isn't very reliable.