The bottom two of the mongrel's rear heater elements do not demist. Was on the hunt for a repair kit and found a £12 silver paint kit in Halfrauds. Thought it was rather a lot (as well being potentially messy on the glass) so started to contemplate alternatives. I couldn't really think of any. I began wondering how tough it was to get a short length of cable and stick it to a working element, and the other end to a dead element so conduct the electric? I then wondered if it was that easy as there is a connection on each side of the screen which suggests current goes in one end and out the other, and "bridging" between elements might cause the whole system to pack-up / short out?? At least a cable could be tucked behind the trim too.

Any help?! :(

The paint stuff does work - used it years ago - straight edge, steady hand.

When I worked in the Skoda dealership the service manager used to have repair kits that he said were supplied by skoda so that they didnt have to replace the rear screen under warrenty?????

Maybe someone who's still in the dealerships may have more info?

I suppose I could mask off first.... "steady hand" does not apply to me. I wobble more when I need to be steadier.

I've used this stuff a few times. It isn't intended for repairing long runs of hrw element just those little nicks that break the circuit.

Go to a model shop and get a really fine paint brush then apply a tiny dot of paint over the nick. You will only see the repair if you know where it is.

Trouble is I am joining up complete lines, so need to bridge a vertical gap of approx 2" - twice.... This is why I thought using a bit of cable might work, or even removing the copper from inside and attaching that across the screen vertically (behind the trim)

Somewhere in those 2 non-working strips are going to be a nick or two. Just use the silver paint to cover them.

And I'm still trying to work out how you fit your bit of copper wire to them!

I first used the repair paint in the 1970's and I've found it works well.

I've even used it to repair a printing circuit in a mains operated calculator. A sliding switch had worn away the circuit and after a few thick coats of paint the switch operates as it should do.

OK - going to remove the two side trims and see if it is obvious where the two bottom lines are broken.

Well, I bought the kit but when inspecting the two elements I could see no breaks at all. Very confusing. I had some tape over the lowest element that runs close to the rear wiper motor (mine is all removed and blanked off) so I have painted there in case that was it. It got me confused where the break could be.

Ironically, for the first time in a long time a brake bulb blew on the way to Halfrauds... Replaced it in their car park (myself not using one of their people )

You need a multimeter mate to do some continuity testing...